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Published: January 17th 2007
It's been a while since I posted my last blog, my apologies to all those regular readers who have been anxiously awaiting word about my travels. I believe my last blog was posted the night before I went to Ankor Wat, so maybe that is a good place to start this one off. I woke up at about 8 and hired a tuk-tuk driver to take me around Angkor Wat for the day. I think I arrived at the temple complex at around 9 or 10 and managed to see everything I wanted to in less than 6 hours. The temple complex is very large and if one purchased the three day pass there would be more than enough to see. However, by going for only half a day, I was able to see all the main, most famous, temples and was able to see them at a leasurely pace, stopping to take photos and read signs about their history.
The first temple I saw, Bayon, was quite old and covered in large faces. Then, taking the advice of my tuk-tuk driver I went to the Leper King Temple. This was followed by some more temples, finally stopping at the
interesting Wat Thom. I'm fairly sure that is the one they used when filming the movie Tome Raider. It's there that I got quite a few nice photos and I consider this temple my favorite. However, Leaving Thom was a hassle, as hordes of children followed me great distances in an attempt to sell me whatever trinket they had handy. At some point (not too sure if it was from one of these kids), I bought the book "Life of Pi" and a couple of AA batteries. Finally I made my way to Angkor Wat. Meh, it was alright. There were a lot of sculpted murals that were very large and very detailed. Many depicted ancient battles and told a story of what the time where like when the temples were built. Before I went to see these temples I read some about their history. I found this information just as interesting as the temples themselves, and if I had to do it again, I probably would have gone with a tour guide for at least half a day. I'd would consider doing so, but I was actually able to take in a lot of information by just hanging out
with groups of tourists and listening to their guides instead. After Ankor Wat I made my way back to my guesthouse, where I relaxed for the rest of the evening. One thing I think I discovered while at the temples is that I truely prefer situations where I can interact with people, rather than just look at structures. Also, I might be slightly jaded from all the temples I've seen already. 1 day at Angkor Wat was really enough for me, but it truely was an amazing experience.
Now, in the morning before leaving for Angkor Wat, I recall taking out all my cards from my wallet and stuffing them under my bed. The next morning, when leaving Siem Reap to go to Phom Pen, I was about two seconds from locking my room door and leaving when I realized that I didn't have those cards on me. It's a good thing I had this realization, because about two hours later, half way from Siem Reap to Phom Pen, I discovered that my wallet was gone. Was it stolen? Did I forget it? Not too sure. All I know is that it was a Sunday, meaning all the banks
in Phom Pen would be closed, and I had $20 dollars to last me till the next day. Now, I'll be honest. These past 3 days in Siem Reap had left me with a bad attitude about Cambodias. People in my area didn't seem especially friendly, and everything was listed in American dollars, which always gave me the impression that everything was expensive. So, maybe without good reason, I was harbouring a negative perspective about the Cambodian people. So, it was helpful when, after missing the first bus from Siam Reap to Phom Pen (Not by my own fault), I was placed on as bus with only Cambodians. As I climbed on board I could feel their gazes, and I heard some people chuckling. I saw down next to a well dressed Cambodian, around my age, wearing a pear of specticles. Across from me sat two monks. The Cambodian next to me and the two monks were travelling together and we ended up chatting the whole trip. It was at this point that I realized how poor the cambodian people truely are. They had come from their hometowns to Siam Reap through the finances of their english teacher. The well-dress
boy beside me did not have a dollar to his name and his specticles were a gift from his teacher as well. He was just finishing high school, and to me he seemed like quite a good student. He wanted to go on to University to become a tour guide, at a cost of 350 dollars for the year, but going to school for that price seemed like a fanciful idea to him. I felt like giving him the money on the spot. At one point during the ride, before I discovered I had lost my wallet, he had offered me to come with him to his hometown to see the specacular scenery and culture. However, with my temporarily limited budget I was unable to join him. By the time I had reached Phom Pen, my attitude toward the Cambodian people was beginning to be altered. Then I reached Phom Pen.
A fellow Canadian in Thailand had told me that when you get off the bus in Phom Pen, you feel like a movie star. He wasn't joking. Throngs of Cambodian tuk-tuk drivers are pushing each other around at the front door of the bus trying to get your
Mmmm tastey baguette
Somehow in a half-awake daze I gave this woman 2 dollars for 2 small loaves of french bread. Within moments a flurry of hands were outstreched into my window.attention. This probably meant I could have done some barginning, but instead I agreed to a massive price of $5 american dollars to go to a recommended guesthouse. I think my first mistake was thinking that just because I didn't need a lonely planet in Thailand, that I wouldn't need one in Cambodia either. So, this tuk-tuk drivers takes me to a guesthouse, but they're full. Then he tries to ask me for more money to take me elsewhere. I tell him to stuff it, and he takes me to a nearby hotel. "Yeah, hotel good, only 8 dollars, hot water, air con, TV." Well, it had a TV, I can say that much. $11 dollars a nigh. So at this point, I'm down to 4 dollars. I decide to go for a stroll to try and release some of the tension that has been building. Along my way I meet a girl from Victoria. She tells me that she's staying near the lake in Phom Pen and that it is the backpacker area. We part ways and I head back towards my guesthouse, looking for an ATM machine. Along my path I meet a group of 4, two of
whom are from Canada as well. They had a certain familiarity to them, and after some discussion about what airlines we took and how and when we got here, I discovered that I had chatted them up in our stoppover in Seoul. I think they were the only people I met on the flight, and I mean, I've met some people more than once while travelling, but no one who dates as far back as at a stoppover in Seoul. They were actually staying at the same guesthouse as the girl I had met earlier, so I decided I would reserve a room for the next day. We all went out and had some drinks, and the evening ended with me in a tuk-tuk driving around the streets of Phom Pen looking for a place called...uhh..."lucky something..." It was at this point that I developed the perminent habit of taking the business cards from any guesthouse or establishment that I ever intended to get a ride to again. The next morning I went to the happy 11 guesthouse on the lakeside. All the guesthouses were on the lake and fraction of the price i was paying the night before. The
Looking back at Cambodia
1 of 3 pictures I showed to the Vietnamese Embassy attmosphere was good, with lots of backpackers, if not a little sketchy. You couldn't walk more than a foot without being offered every drug under the sun, and then then every two steps later the questions being repeated. The next day the Canadian girl I met and myself went to the killing fields and the S-21 prison. I don't know, they didn't really have a completely severe impact. The killing fields were just a field, but there was one tree that they used to club babies against that really made me quite queezy. The prison was interesting. For me the most interesting part was looking into the eyes of everyone who was captured (their pictures were posted) and seeing the looks on their faces. Some had looks of fear, others of defeat, some of pride and resistance. They had the oddest sign above a few of the doors which I'll post a picture of. I think it was a no laughing sign? Who the _____ would be laughing at a genocide. not me. There were also some very grotesque pictures towards the end, like babies getting bayonetted into the air then shot. We tagged along with a tour guide and
Looking forward at Vietnam
1 of 3 pictures I showed to the Vietnamese Embassy got some of the history, but aside from my knowledge that they wanted to kill all the educated, I'm not entirely sure why this Cambodia slaughtering began.
Later that evening we met up with a few others and went out to the pub "Heart of Darkness." This place had a good mix of Cambodians and tourists and the music was rather good. The next day I intended on leaving with the Canadian girl (Chelsea) to Vietnam. However, I was still harbouring a fairl negative attitude towards Cambodia and the Cambodian people. So, not wanting to leave a country with this attitude about it, I decided to stay until I discovered the Cambodia that everyone was raving about. (And I mean raving. Everyone I talked to felt that the Cambodian were the most helpful, kind people they had met in Asia). Well, I stayed an extra 5 days. I walked around, I hung out at the guesthouse and watched movies, I went to the go-carts, nearby local pubs, hung out with Cambodians. It was okay. I'll say in the end that I did appreciate the Cambodian people a lot more. However, I feel that a lonely planet would have helped
I need elbow room!
Inside the mini-van we took from the border into Ho Chi Min City. a lot and maybe some tips on places to go to. I met some girls who saw dolphins in the mekong river about 2 hours north of Siam Reap. Some people went to a nearby beach called Sinaokeville (I've had enough beaches though.) So yeah, I think with more knowledge of the country and a more structured itinerary, Cambodia could be a great visit. As when I left Bangkok, I did the foolish (or maybe ingenious) act of staying up all night partying. However, just as when I left Bangkok, it worked out extremely well. I slept all the way up to the border, well just about.
Just before the border our bus stopped to cross the Mekong river. At this point and elderly woman tapped on my bus window. She was holding a basket of delicious looking bread and I was pretty hungry. She mumbled something, was it 2000 rieal? Probably, but I heard it as 2 dollars. About 6 times the price she wanted. So, I give her 2 dollars for two small loaves of bread, and about 10 hands shoot into the window asking me to buy everything under the sun. It's at this point that
Beyond impressive
If you're able to zoom in, you'll see that this lady is pushing a pedal-bike across a field with a MASSIVE pile of cardboard strapped to it. I start to accept that I'm a sucker and that getting ripped off is just part of my travelling experience.
The border crossing took under 5 minutes. There was a yellow line that divided the two countries and I recall hopping over it with a smile on my face, then minutes later realized I dropped my bus ticket and illegally jumpiong back into Cambodia momemtarily.
Vietnam is awesome.
My hands are tired so I'll explain more about Vietnam tommorow.
Again, I've said it before, but I'll try and posted another blog sooner. Too much detail is lost over 2 weeks.
- Oh, I went to the go-karts, they were awesome.
- Oh, I went for a massage, it was awesome.
- Oh, I had a happy pizza, it was awesome.
- Oh, I watched the departed, it was awesome.
- Oh, I ate some Khmer meal that smelt like poo, not so awesome.
Post again soon about the amazing Saigon. Till then, take care.
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Dad & Donna
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So glad you are back....to update us all......
Great blog happening Brodie.....We were waiting for the next one on Cambodia and as usual we were not disapointed.....You definitely have a way with words.....It is so great being able to keep up on your travels like this......Also keeps the worrying about you at bay.....Nonnie asks about you all the time and is always glad to hear when you have blogged...We have been keeping her informed.....You are not missing much weather wise here...just snow...frost and wind and rain ....so enjoy the sun while you can.....Was wondering what is your time frame window on arriving home?A wild guess will do.....Thinking about you everyday....Missing you lots...Love you........ keep on enjoying your adventures.....a chance of a life time.... Hope you enjoyed the fresh bread!!!!Will be awaiting your take on Vietnam....Stay safe ...Love Dad & Donna.