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Published: March 9th 2009
Ready for Round Two
3:20 on the morning before I left for HeathrowThursday 5th March
Apologies for the lack of photos in the last blog, ´had difficulty uploading them, but hopefully will have better luck with this server.
When I left Roy´s I made my way for the night coach to Ciudad Bolivar, the first stop on the route to Angel Falls. My main rucksack went into the luggage compartment. Fortunately I kept my sleeping bag in my day bag, as the air conditioning was turned full on and I would not have got to sleep otherwise. It was a nine hour trip but I slept through my stop and ended up in Puerto Ordaz. I had to get a collectivo ( a private car which goes when it is full) back to C. Bolivar. When there I immediately scouted for a company who does tours to the Angel Falls; I bartered with a few before chosing one. My trip began in a small single engined Cessna plane to Canaima - just the pilot and me in the plane - very cramped; I was in the co-pilot´s seat and had to clamber across the pilot´s seat to get in. Lots of food and other cargo in the back. When we took off I
View from Roy´s Apartment in Caracas
Roy lived quite central opposite a metro station, but there were many burrios (shanty houses) around. couldn´t speak above the deafening roar of the engine. After an hour and ten minutes in the air we landed at a small airstrip in Canaima. ´Paid my entrance fee to the National Park at the airport and was met by the tour guide who drove me to the village; everything here is very basic, as there is no way in or out of the place except by air or sometimes by boat. The buildings had either thatch roofs, made from palm leaves, or galvanise. ´Met up with the group I was going to be with over lunch, after which we had a boat trip on lake Canaima to some of the local falls. The boat was a long canoe shape made from one piece of wood and covered in tar. It could seat all nine of us and had a powerful outboard motor. The rest of the group was made up of Germans, Japanese, Austrian and one Mexican and one Australian, so quite cosmopolitan. Spanish and English tended to be the common languages. We hiked to see one of the falls and eventually went behind the water of one of the widest falls. It was very slippery there but
Archway at Park Entrance
This impressive archway led into the park which was in Caracas. However it was quite neglected. when I stood directly under the water it was like a massage. ´Came back to the shore of the lake and ended up with a swim. We had evening meal together and chatted for a while afterwards with Janet and Uve (Austalian/Geman couple) before I retired to bed.
Friday 6th March
Up at 7:30 and had a breakfast of pancakes, egg, ham and cheese - very filling. While I was eating, Toni (our guide) offered me an extra day at Canaima, at no further cost, to make up the numbers in the next day´s group. As Canaima was such a peaceful, scenic place ( a total contrast to Caracas) I had no hesitation in accepting. ´Packed a day bag for the long journey to Angel Falls and we started the boat journey upstream. This was almost like white water rafting as we churned through the rapids and the spray soaked us. We needed to move about in the boat a few times to distribute the weight and prevent it from snagging on the rocks beneath. The four hour boat trip was only broken by a stop for lunch, a brief bathroom break and a short hke around a rapid
Church in Park
One of the examples of dilapidation and neglect in the park was this lovely little church which was in ruins. which was too dangerous. There were some great photo opportunities en route but I had to be very careful not to get the cameras soaked. We eventually arrived at the base camp - an open air covered enclosure with hammocks. We had a short walk to a view point of the falls while the guide and a few others cooked a meal. It was a tasty dish of B-B-Q´d chicken, rice and vegetables. A generator provided power for light until 9:30. However I was in my hammock and asleep before it went off. I was awakened in the night by heavy rain and thought of the clothes I had hung out to dry before going to sleep.
Saturday 7th March
Up at 6:45 and had a scout around trhe area before breakfast. Changed in a pair of sturdy boots ready for the hike ahead. It was a 2 hour hike trek adn steep climb - not easy due to the numerous exposed roots (some like tangled webs ranging up to a foot above the ground) which were dangerous and slippery from the night´s rain. It was slow going especially on the steep climb; I was pleased my hips stood
Concerje Municipal
This unusually styled building with its golden dome was beautiful both outside and in. up to it, but I was tired and hot when we reached the foot of the falls. It was a spectacular sight. Much of the volume of water had changed to a wide misty spray by the time it reached half way down the falls. Some went in for a swim in the pool at the falls base. The climb back down was slow but we had a good lunch when we reached the base camp. I was so tired I had 30 minute deep sleep in the hammock before continuing our long boat trip back to Canaima. At one point on the way back the boat was nearly swamped with water from the rapids; the water somehow got to my cameras even though they were in a water proof bag. We made a few stops - one at Orchid Island and another at Mosquito Island to stretch our legs and have a short walk. The boat was expertly driven by a crew of two - one steering the engine at the back and another right on the bow of the boat with a wide wooden paddle to steer throught the rapids. When we arrived at Canaima I had a
Courtyard of the Concerje
Speaks for itself - see previous photo. badly needed shower before our evening meal of local fish potatoes and vegetables. I went with Andy and Julie (from Germany) to a local 5-a-side football match where the Canaimans were playing an away team. Lots of slipping and sliding on a wet conrete surface, but good competetive skills displayed.
Sunday 8th March
Repacked my rucksack at 7:00 and had breakfast. As the est of the group went to the local falls I went for an amble around the village. The local church was having Mass but only a few attending. Toni (our guide) told me later that though more than 95% of the population are Catholic, few practise. Lot of the local people were with their families, as it was Sunday. I saw one family gathered around a small bathtub outside their house where they were giving their baby a bath. ´Sat on the sand by the shore of the lake for a while - very scenic with the soft whie sand and the falls for a background view. Eventually it was time to leave, so made my way to the airstrip with the group where we split up and went on different Cessnas back to Ciudad Bolivar.
Interior of Church of St Theresa
In the centre of Caracas was this ornate, spacious Church. Very popular with the locals. I met up with Paul (from Austria) who knew a good posada in the city to which I went with him. He had stayed there previously - good choice, an old spacious historic building with lots of antiques, art and artefacts. ´Met up with the first English people I encountered so far on my travels and we all went out for a meal together. This is the beginning of celebrations for Women´s Week in Venezuela so there was a party spirit at the restaurant with a brass group and lots of dancing. Later back at the posada (Don Charles) we chatted over a few drinks and some camolmile tea into the early hours. Among the group there was one of the authors of the Lonely Planet Guide (Beth Kohn) from California who was researching this area.
Monday 9th March
Happy Birthday Ursula ! Didn´t sleep well...very hot and humid, plus a barking dog through the night. Pual and I searched for a panaderia to get some breakfast, as not included at the posada. While buying some food we were approached by a well dressed Venezuelan who said he was a local counsellor - he was very right wing and
Commercial Shopping Centre
A view down from the fourth floor through the middle of the commercial shopping centre. couldn´t say praise Chaves enough. As we ate he spoke of all that Chaves had done for the country and what he was going to do for it, we decided not to argue with him! We left him and went back to the posada where I packed ready to leavel. C. Bolivar is historic colourful city on the banks of the Orinoco River - much safer than Caracas.
I plan to leave C. Bolivar today and make my way to Tucipita on the Orinoco delta. When I finish this I look for a bus to take me there where I will spend the next few days.
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