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Montevideo was a bit of a tired old lady really who needs a bit of TLC. Compared to Buenos Aires we found it smaller, a little less tidy, a bit more expensive and generally having a run down feel to it. That's not to say we didn't enjoy our visa-run weekend there, we did.

The Buquebus direct to Montevideo was very smooth much to Trish's delight. We had a hotel in mind which we had seen online (The Arapey) and it was about 20 inutes walk through the back streets with our packs on. The hotel was nice enough, nothing special but at US$18 a night for a double room, what do you expect? It was peaceful too, except for the couple next door - well more specifically the young lady - who were VERY expressive during both nights we were there!!

We explored the streets of Montevideo's old town on Friday afternoon. A HUGE chivito for two was scoffed with a large beer as we were starving! We admired the architecture but the weather was just too nice to draw us into any of the museums. The artists and handicrafts around the Mercado del Puerto area were fabulous but as travellers we didn't want a 6x4 foot painting no matter how nice it was or how good it would look in our lounge.

In the evening we went out at around 9pm and found the area where the bars and restaurants were. They were empty! We found the Dublin Irish Bar and had a beer before going into a restaurant where we both gorged on fabulous stir-fry. My garlic chicken was especially garlicky, and Trish then complained throughout the weekend that it was still in my system!!! At 1130pm the area got quite lively and we found a terrific bar to sup a beer, crunch on monkey nuts, and stare in awe at the size of the table pizzas coming out of the kitchen. The walk back to the hotel reminded us of South Wales on a Saturday night with drunken youths queueing outside clubs, being noisy in the street, continuing to drink to much and making a bit of a mess. How we miss that - NOT!

Saturday was a grey, foggy, misty, drizzly day. Once again we were reminded of South Wales! We took a bus out to Pocitos, a beach resort district of the city which looks promising for the summer should we return. On a winter day such as this it doesn't promise much though, and after viewing the shops in the shopping centre and questioning the occasional amusing name, we walked along the costanera all the way back to the old town. It was a few miles but we needed some fresh air in our lungs.

Saturday night out in Montevideo was like Friday but quieter! Quiet, except for the rather noisy crowd in the Italian restaurant we went to. The major highlight was the ultra-spicy chile oil which we drizzled over our pizza. Typically for us we revisited the bar we enjoyed on Friday night and stayed there until it was time for bed. We had to have an early night to ensure some sleep before the neighbours got back from the clubs!!

Sunday was another glorious day. After leaving our packs at the hotel we walked out to a Sunday market where all manner of fruit and vegetables, clothing, tat, mechanical parts, tropical fish, rabbits, puppy dogs and tarantulas were on sale. I didn't get the camera out because it wasn't in the best of locations and I didn't want somebody setting their tarantula on me!!

Then we took a bus out to Cerro, an outlying district of the city. At Cerro bus station I explained to the driver that we wanted to walk up the hill which overlooks the city. He just pointed in the vague direction of the summit and we walked out for a while before deciding to head back to the bus station. At the (mis)information kiosk I was told there were no buses going towards the summit today. Asking a fellow passenger got more information and we were soon on a bus which went to within a few blocks of the climb.

It wasn't a hard climb but after months of Poreño flatness it was nice to stretch the legs properly. The fort at the top is the military museum which we looked around. I declared war on Uruguay but couldn't get the cannon to fire!

Back in Montevideo we went for an afternoon meal at the Mercado del Puerto. My cod in cream and peppercorn sauce was divine and Trish raved about her seafood casserole. By the time we had finished they were closing up around us so I guess you should really go for lunch rather than halfway through the afternoon!

The Buquebus back to BA was mercifully calm again. It was a good weekend. There is enough to do in Montevideo to see you through a weekend but don't expect beautiful scenes at every turn. We still need one more visa run whilst we are here but it will probably be to Carmelo and not back to the Uruguayan capital.

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