On the Waterfront

17 - 19.09.08 This party's dead anyway
Briefly return to Cusco for one last night 'on the rocks'. Spend most of the time snivelling in a cool new Argentinian bar where the owners test out their latest extravagant cocktails on us. I drink 1 shot 2 many and felt 6 4 a while until I 8 something!

Wake up dehydrated with ten hours to kill before the bus outta Dodge leaves. Feel self-abused enough to sample a burger from the recently opened McDonalds. Tastes delicious but not sure of the meat content. Make mine a Big AlpacaMac!

Realise that spending unnecessary money partying in a city isn't what we came for - get off the excess train at a stop called common sense. Not sure if I've been here before, seems quiet:)

20.09.08 Puno...mate!
Arrive early morning at a town called Puno that harbours the comically named Lake Titticaca. Immediately feel the high altitude cold in the air. I've got chills...they're multiplying!

Weather or not
Peru has an extremely diverse climate depending on what altitude you are at. They say you can experience four seasons in a day - a spring morning, summer midday, autumn afternoon and winter night. This boy just doesn't know what to wear!

Despite the beautiful Lake, the town is less picturesque than we imagined. We've also unknowingly arrived in the folklore capital of Peru where the streets are frequented by loud fiestas featuring locals in all flavours of national dress. And it sounds as if a small brass band follows you wherever you walk - pan pipes are not part of my preferred theme tune!

Spend the day getting our bearings. Or at least following Flo while she gets hers. Sense of direction hasn't improved. I would be lost without her...in more ways than one.

21.09.08 Water way to go
Lake Titticaca claims to be the world's highest navigable lake. It's an impressive expanse of water that acts as a natural mirror - absorbing the azure blue sky and reflecting it back in a deeper shade of sapphire. Stunning. We make like able semen and take a boat trip that visits two islands.

I feel the need, the need for reed - Uros
Uros is an artificial island entirely made from reeds by tribesmen seeking soltitude thousands of years ago. Life there remains relatively unchanged...apart from boats of visiting tourists. Feel slightly intrusive as we are greeted by local woman wearing the usual eccentric ensemble of dresses, including a few items that could have been stolen from Tash's wardrobe - if they wereñ't so colourful:) Love you Tash. Rx

Reassured that the money we bring will help the locals invest in necesseties like solar panels. Electricity will be used for light, heating...and eventually the Internet - which will blow these people's minds by the way!

Feels strange walking on the sponged mass of vegetation. Can see the entire island undulating in sequence with waves. Apparently, if villagers have a serious disspute they cut away their section of the island and simply float away. A rift spelt with a silent 'd'.

Taquile...sunset
Second island is reached after a laborious three-hours - we're gonna need a faster boat! It's real this time! The native inhabitants still follow ancient traditions including wearing different coloured hats to denote social status - shifting them to one side depending on whether they are single and sharking or not...beats small talk at a bar!?

Climb to the summit and eat a traditional(ly average) meal while looking out to the water with Bolivia's Cordilla Real mountain range appearing through the clouds in the backdrop. Local boys engage Flo in a customary dance routine - didn't see which way their hats were turned!

Vist the central square. Surrounded by children offering an array of weaved paraphanelia. Think 'Ritchy don't play that hippy shit'...as Flo ties a friendship bracelet to my wrist. Not allowed to take it off:( Take a slow boat back to Puno as the sun sets.

22.08.09 This Guinea is foul
Had planned to leave for the Bolivian side of the lake. Bus leaves earlier than we arrive. Spend a lazy afternoon eating pastries in bed and being reacquainted with an old friend...TV! Eat my first and last Guinea Pig - apparently a delicacy of Incan kings. Tastes at best like fatty pork. At worst like plastic coated, grease flavoured jelly.

Take my breath away
Living at altitude is exhausting. Feel out of breath having an energetic dream while walking a flight of stairs occasionally leaves me hyperventilating. And, I'm fit...but, oh my God, don´t I just know it:)

Still suffering from the accident. Can't stand the emasculating effect of wearing the arm support - so sling it. And wean myself off the painkillers that seem to have some worrying side effects. Feel confortable enough without either apart from the occasional unintentional movement - unlike Dizee, I hate it when I flex like that! However, accident has exhaled my earlier air of invincibility...for the moment at least.

23.08.09 Down at the Copa, Copacabana
Make our early morning bus to Bolivia. Passing border control is easier than expected. The man from Bolivia, he says 'Hokay!'. Our American friend was not so lucky recently and charged nearly $200.

Copacabana isn't quite its Brazilian namesake but is nonetheless more charming than the Peruvian side of the water. The small town nestles in the cleavage of two hills and supports a relaxed, Bohemian way of life. Could be the perfect place to chill and put the man in manyana for a few days. And, it's cheap...like the budget.

First impressions of Bolivians are mixed. They seem even smaller than the Peruvians - making them the runts of the South American litter? Subsequently, a few of them seem to be suffering from Napoleon's Syndrome - or what you may know as Nish:)

Get drunk. Faye controls her booze monkey. Mine's a gorilla. Get talking to the only Rasta in town. I'm hoping, 'Everything's Gonna Be Alright'. He's thinking, 'Easy Skanking'. We score and settle at my woman no cry!

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