Truijillo

We decided to do day bus trips from now. The night trip to Cuzco still haunts us. We caught a regular bus from Lima to Trujillo and were 2 of only five that started the trip. More people got on along the way, but we were the only English speakers. The bus driver gave us 2 seats each at the front of the bus so that we would spread out and have a window each and a good view. As more people got on the bus driver and his assistant shooed them further back so that we could stay comfortable. We stopped for lunch somewhere and we had a quick bite, because we did not know how long the stop was and when we returned to the bus we found the driver talking excitedly on his cell phone. Lots of oil was coming out of a wheel. Paul siad it was serious and he would ruin the diff if he carried on. We were expecting a delay but we eventually carried on- to the drivers dismay.

We arrived safely in Truijillo about 7 pm and caught a taxi to the hostel, given a lovely meal and off the bed early. The first day in this town we spent walking around, bought fruit and found street sellers selling hard boiled quail eggs that cost 1 sol for 8 and long donut things filled with apple. Both very nice.

The next day we went to archealogical sites with Michael White (from the hostel we stayed at). We went to the Huaca del Sol y del la luna Temple of the Sun and Moon. These are gigantic man-made mud brick complexes that from a distance look like hills surrounded by flat land. Wind and rain have done their worst and alot has eroded away. Average rainfull 6 mm per year. These temples are from pre Inca times and built by Moche people. Archealogists are still working on the site and more is getting uncovered all the time. A huge roof helps to protect is from the elements. The building was built from about 0-600 AD. Paul made friends with a Peruvian dog - hairless except for fluff on head and tail, very cute.
About the size of Milo.

The next day we visted La Huaca Arco Iris another huge mud brick building. This was covered by sand and uncovered in the 1960's. Some damage has been done by El Nino rains. It is 2 layers with a big slope to walk up and all surrounded by a large 2 meter thick wall. Out side the complex we saw a family of ground burrowing owls, 3 babies and their mother. These owls are awake during the day and smallish.

From here we went to Chan Chan, this was built by the Chimu Empire about 1300 AD. It covers about 25 square km and is beyond comprehension. Hectares of dissolving, eroding mud brick walls. Absolutley awe inspiring - it must have been so amazing when people lived here, especially if you were one of the privileged and not a work horse. 4 meter thick walls, surround the Tschudi complex, and enclose 3 large ceremonial courtyards and a large walk in well or pond and lots of buildings. The workers on site are trying to protect the walls with stuff that won´t erode. Paul is thinking of something similar for our front gate, but I will be out of town that day.

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