Featuring this weeks guest publication from peru

ian's bit
We were high as kites for well over two weeks. So high at first that my head spun, I was breathless and was forced to lie down. We all agreed, over one of our many three course breakfasts, that this was as high as we'd ever been. And as Vik approached and then passed her 30th birthday - I know, at her age. But then you kind of get used to the altitude and don't really notice it. Although that isn't quite true when you're up a mountain and climbing a mountain. But the Inca trail was well worth it.

We were there with Smithy - our most excellent guide (and biggest Everton fan of Inca descendants) - he told us all about the expansion of the Inca's from 1432 onwards under the 9th Inca King, how they were generally nice to the people they conquered, how they loved the earth, Pacha mama, and three's were important to them. He made their colonisation of the Andes sound more like a town twinning exercise than a brutal expansion but that did make the whole experience feel rather more jolly and pleasant. So we trekked for 4 days. We had the best food (3 courses all the way) and went from cold to hot to cold depending on whether we were in the freezing shade or burning sun. But we'd all bought enough customary alpaca clothing to keep us going. It was a bit embarrassing that we had 10 guys to carry our possessions and more embarrassing when they raced past us every day. It was well worth it when we got into the lovely tents and ate the amazing food.

After getting up at 4 in the morning to race the last 5kms or so we were at the Sun Gate that leads into Machu Pichu. And knowing that you'd gone up, down, up and down for three days - getting as high as we'd ever been (4,200 metres) - made the whole thing more special. On the day we wondered around feeling smug about our efforts, smelling like people who hadn't showered for 4 days and laughing at the fat tourists in their jeans with their cameras resting on their bellies. There was so much to say about the “lost city” that there isn't room here. But it was “found” by Mr Bingham back in the day, although this is disputed by the people who were living there when he found it. The Inca's were pretty handy at building cities in places that at first glance I'd have said “not a f****g chance” and they were nifty with their stone work. I never thought I'd say this but they put our dry stone walls to shame. All in all, it was great.

After that we did other stuff (shell will explain below) but we did go out of our way to visit a lake that's claim to fame is dubious at best and absolutely meaningless at worse. It was the highest, largest most navigable lake in the world. So there are higher, there are larger and there's others that are navigable. It was bit like being in the lake district but without the rain. And to those missing Vik and Steve - we did our best to get them home early by forcing them to completely blow their budgets - but I don't think it worked.

shell's bit...

It already feels a little unreal to have been happily hanging out in the mountains now we're back in blighty and immersed in work and normal life. Anyway, here's what happened before and after the inca trail...
Feeling rather weary after epic flights, Lima is a welcome bed, unremitting smog, terrible driving and an incongruous John Lennon statue standing proudly with his back to the Pacific Ocean. Moving swiftly on to Cusco, a stunning city nestling in the Andes, with thin air, traditionally dressed Peruvians, and Vik and Steve greeting us as we arrive at our hotel. In typical Sullivan style, after low key but much anticipated greetings, we head off for food and Peruvian beer. Three days of acclimatisation follow, which include white water rafting and kayaking, walking around incredible Inca sites further up the mountains looking down on Cusco, purchasing of fore-mentioned alpaca goods and over-eating. Post-trail, we hit the buses, and went to Lake Titicaca to see the Uros people on their floating islands (made of reeds, and a bit like walking on a bouncy castle), then to Arequipa - a beautiful colonial city surrounded by volcanoes and mountains. From there we went to the second deepest canyon in the world (allegedly) to see condors. I was expecting big birds, but hadn't quite prepared myself for the awe-inspiring bit. Hard to describe but just the most amazing sight to see and hear them gliding above you. I think that hour was the only time we stood still on the whole trip. So slightly tired and emotional after lots of wine on our farewell lunch, we sadly headed for home and left Vik and Steve to spend a rather more leisurely few more months in South America. PS No guinea pigs died to feed us - despite Ian saying all along he was going to try the Peruvian national dish. He chickened out when the only option was always a fried very intact looking specimen - complete with head and paws. PPS many alpacas did suffer....

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