Peru

Well after I last wrote to you in the American Airways Admiral Club I thought I’d better freshen up and have a bite to eat and beer, so I was supplied with a shower, free biscuits & cheese and had a quiet beer. My flight did not end up leaving till 2.30 and the original flight schedule was at 11.40, so I was glad I made my way in to the Admirals Club. The flight was not too bad and got a bit of sleep. We arrived in Lima just after 7 and I made my way to a hostel to leave my luggage in storage and figure out the best way to Arequipa, as I was told Lima is not a great place to visit and I wanted to get to Cusco ASAP. So I arranged a bus to Arequipa for 6, so I had a bit of time to kill in the city and at the hostel before I left. There was not much to see in that time, so I just cruised around the hostel. The bus ride was a pleasant 15 hour trip to Arequipa, but the bus was great. Was like first class with fully reclining chairs and food and drinks during the trip, the movies and late night bingo ran a bit late, but I was able to get some more sleep. I was greeted at the bus station by the people at the hostel with my name on a sign, which is always a highlight. From there I headed back to the hostel for some breaky and coca tea to start my acclimatization to the higher altitude of the area. I had a look around the streets and did not look out of place in a pair of boardies, singlet, shoes, no socks and bright red sunnies. But I had to get my washing done and that was all I had. It was time for a nanny nap and watch some TV which was great. The Marlons Hostel was great, they organised my 2 day bus trip to the Colca canyon and bus trip to Cusco when I returned from there. I would have stay more time at the hostel, but I need to get to Cusco on the 1st.

So after a good nights sleep and having some clean clothes I set off on a 2 day bus trip to Colca Canyon at 8 in the morning. The signs did not look good when I got on the bus and was the youngest by 20 years, but thankfully I was joined by 2 Norwegian girls (Tina & Maren) up the back of the bus. The roads in Peru are not that pleasant but bearable at times, The first day we got up to 4800m above sea level and I was feeling a slight head ache, but it was not that bad. We stopped off at a few points at the trip with good views, but nothing substantial. I was lucky enough to try Alpaca for lunch. Did not taste too bad, but was a little tough from hiking around all the surrounding mountains. After arriving at our hostels around 4 we had an hour to kill in the town on Chivay, where there were a few markets and not much else, but at 5 the bus was taking us 45mins down the road to the Hot Springs, which were good and had a nice view from the water. We did tea at a Peruvian place that had dancers and the like, but did not stimulate the excitement nerves too much. The next day we headed on a bump arse road to the Colca Canyon where you get to see the Condors flying around the cliff tops. I must admit they where a pretty massive birds with a 2m wing span but yet quite a graceful bird even though they just glide on the updraft of the cliffs. After that we stopped off for some lunch and then back to Arequipa. It was a long bus trip back and upon my arrival in the city I just got my gear ready before heading out for some tea with the girls before my bus ride to Cusco that night.

It was a 9-10 hour overnight bus ride to Cusco, I had to chill in the streets and at the hostel (Loki) till 1 before I could check in and I had arrived in the town at 6. So all I wanted to do was sleep, Jess arrived in around 4.30 and was sent to another hostel by the receptionist as she got her wires crossed. So we caught up and had a few drinks. She was still battling from a big few weeks in Argentina, so I hit the beers for the first time in a week with Ally (Melbourne) and Kirsten (English/Spanish) who I had meet earlier in the day. It was a big night and had a bit of fun with the crew. The next day we just looked around the streets and finalized out Salkantay Trek booking and then headed back to the hostel. That night became a big one with the girls again as Jess was still laying low in preparation for the trek. Luckily I had all day the following to chill before the trek. Well I did chill out and then we headed to the Pre-Trek meeting at 6. After this I really started to hit the wall and became quite unwell that night, with hot and cold shakes and being unable to eat. So the trek was not looking that great at this point in time. Jess had to pack my gear and get me drinks to keep me alive. I did not get that much sleep during the night and we had to be up at 5 to get ready for the trek.

The next day we thankfully asked the receptionist at the hostel if there was a 24 hour pharmacy, which there was and the lady gave me 4 different pills, for altitude sickness, fever headaches, etc. Well I downed all 4 before getting on the bus and I was going to either get better or be the latest Heath Ledger. Thankfully after 3 hours in the bus to our lunch spot, I was coming good. So after eating for the first time in 24 hours I was starting to get back to reality. From the town where we had breakfast, we dumped out stuff on a truck and little did we know this was our vehicle to the start of the trek. After one and half hours standing in this truck dodging and weaving branches we arrived at the start of the trek. The 1st days climbing was not that tough, but I was at a disadvantage along with a few Canadian girls who where also carrying there actual hiking back packs. The rest had hired a porter and just had a day pack. I had agreed to carry Jess’ hiking bag and she carried my day pack for the trip to save money (not the smartest idea). The walking was not too bad and we just chatted away to the 20 other people in the group getting to know each other. The first spot we stopped to camp was at the base of Salkantay Mountain and it was freezing as it has a glacier on the mountain and we were at 4100m above sea level and the Mountain stands some where just about 5800m.

The 2nd day we were awoken by the porters at 5am with some hot cups of coca tea, as we were at the foot of the Salkantay Mountain it made it a fresh start to the morning. After another massive feast we had a 2 1/2 hours hike from 4100m to 4600m. It was tough going as it was a pretty uneven track and we were switching back up the mountain. Thankfully I was feeling a million dollars as compared to the previous morning. Jess and I along with an Irish couple (Simon and Claire) were up the front setting the pace. We arrived at the highest point in the hike, 4600m above sea level where we stopped to take some pictures of the Mountain and surrounding valleys. From this point it was all down hill for the next 6 hours with a lunch break on the way. As it was all down hill the pace was a bit quicker with me and Jess staying up front to keep out of the dust and slow walking behind us. After 10 1/2 hours of hiking we had made it to out camp sight. Here we got to wash our faces and feet (in that order) in the river by the camp site. We also got to enjoy a beer or two with our guides and a few of the couples.

The next morning we got to sleep in till 6 and the morning the air was considerably warmer as we had dropped nearly 2000m and were now in the juggle/forest. As it was hotter the guns and pins got a bit of time in the sun which is always a win in my book. It was the same crew setting the pace after Javier had guided us through some of the narrower parts on the track. There were also some interesting bridge crossing over the rivers and waterfalls. It was a good days hiking and we into camp around lunch time, so we had plenty of time to go for a dip in the freezing/refreshing river (rapid). We got to have a few more drinks with the crew and another massive dinner before we hit the hay around 10 bells.

The 4th day we where given 3 options, get the bus straight to camp, walk 3 hours and the hot springs for the afternoon or hike 3 1/2 hours up hill and 2 1/2 down hill. The later does not sound like the greatest of options, but we chose to do it with a few of the battlers catching the bus. There were times where it was not feeling like the greatest idea to do the hike, but I was there to hike and trim the pins and drivers down. The views on the trek were amazing on this day, but boredom was setting in at parts as the down hill was switching back and forth and you kept seeing the same bit of scenery, mind you it was the Machu Picchu Site on the opposite mountain and a man made water fall that pumps water for the hydro electricity company in the area. Thankfully on the day as it was a hot one I did not have to carry the hiking pack back as it was chucked on the bus to the point where we jumped on the train to AC. After we had got off the mountain we were able to take a dip in the river that ran off the water falls in the area. Once again the water was quite cold, but it was good to get the legs in there for a relax. From there it was a short walk to the train stop where our lunch was to be served. After another great feast and a few beers we jumped on the train to AC. When arrived in town it was a fight for the showers in each room, but Jess and I being the internet junkies we are, thought it was better to get in contact with civilization via facebook and hotmail. After that it was time for a much needed shower and beer. The group were in good form early, but every one hit the hay early as we had a 4.30 start the next day so we could get up to Machu Picchu before the crowds.

Well I was hard to get up that early, but once we had had our breakfast and caught the bus up to the mountain, it was worth every minute of missed sleep. We got there before sun rise over the surrounding mountains, but it was not to dark so we all got our token shots over the site and got to watch as the sun rose over the mountains and onto the site. Some of the colours and shadows coming off the buildings were amazing, and it’s interesting to think about all the work that was put into constructing this site as it was so far away from any major townships. Javier our guide spent most of the morning taking us to areas where you can get the best pictures and tell us stories of the area and how it was discovered and how it was not discovered by the Spanish. At 8.30 we tried to beat the rush up Waycu Picchu, which is a mountain that sits at the end of the Inca site and has amazing views over the site and surrounding mountains. After feeling quite fresh after the lack of hiking on the day we all set out, bar a few up the mountain. To say that it was hardest part of the trek is an understatement, but it only took 40mins to get up this steep and windy path. So it did not really compare overall to the 2nd day’s climb. Once you get up there after climbing through a tunnel and up a rickety bamboo ladder you get an amazing view of the area. Javier told us that the trip back down was harder. Well it was not that bad, just funny watching all the people battle up the stairs that you had been up and hour previously. After getting down we had a look around the site for a further hour. Jess and I being the poor world travellers, decided it was best to hike down the mountain which we were told would take a 1 hour and 20mins as compared to the $6US bus that took 15mins. But we were there to walk and it only took 50mins and ran into some other hikers who had some hilarious tales of there cheaper tour. After arriving back, I thought it was time to swing by the barber shop for a bit of a trim of the outrageous beard that I was attempting to grow over the course of the month. Feeling like a new man, we sat down for our last meal together as the rest of the group were catching the train back to Cusco that night. Jess and I had opted to stay an extra night in AC, which did not look like a great idea as the rest of the group were planning a night out on town after they got back that evening. After the last feast we played some cards while they waited till it was time to leave. From there it was straight to bed for a long nights sleep for first time in 5 days.

Well I was awoken by Jess who could not sleep at 6 and there was not much hope after that point. I got a bit more rest, but it was minimal. There was not much to do in AC so we just wandered around the markets and street for a bit. We then headed up to the hot springs that Javier had recommend not visiting and he was well right, the springs were nothing compared to the others we had seen on our journey. The springs were warm and they smelt of balls, it was not pleasant at all. The highlight was the hot shower and sun baking afterwards. We killed a bit of time at the hostel and then boarded our train to Cusco. Once we got back into town we caught up with most of the gang as they had all piked it the night before and thought they would wait for us and the 2 guides that missed the train the night previous. So we headed to an Irish pub to meet up with most of the gang. After everyone bailed it was left to Simon, Claire, Jess and I to tear up Cusco for the group. We thankfully ran into Javier on the street and got him well and truly smashed, mind you the 4 of us were not much better.

The next day at Loki was very relaxed, Ally and Kirsten where kind enough to wake me at 8ish to head out for Apple Strudels. Not usually a hang over choice, but were great in my hung over state. From there it was back to the hostel to chill in the sun for the rest of the day and also watched a few movies. The night was a very relaxed one for Jess and I, just checking in with the internet and uploading some pics.

I was feeling pretty fresh for once the morning after so I went for a wander down to the LAN Peru (my airline company) office to re-arrange most of my trip. Was not an easy process and I will have to change a few at a further date, but it was something I was glad I got out of the way. From there it was pretty chilled at the hostel, helping Jess pack her gear to head off that night on a 20 hour bus trip to Lima. We caught up with Simon and Claire in the afternoon for a drink to say our goodbyes and then chucked Jess in the taxi to the bus station before heading out with Ally and Kirsten to a bar that had movies and salsa dancing on. It was a pretty big night in the end as I had stayed around the extra night as Ally was also heading to Lima but the day after.

The morning after I was scratchy, but Kirsten and I jumped in a cab to the bus station to book a bus to Copacabana in Bolivia. After doing so we headed back to Loki for food and a chill in the sun before packing for our 10 hour bus trip leaving at 10 bells that evening. The bus trip at this point rates as the worst so far. We had plenty of leg room and space to extend out our chairs, but the ride was freezing and there was no blankets supplied like most of the good bus companies do. Even Kirsten in her sleeping bag was battling to get sleep, while I was battling hypothermia. We arrived in Copacabana at 8 after catching a ‘collectivo’ mini bus with the fresh fish smelling locals as part of our bus ride.

I had a ball in Cusco and I highly recommend staying at the Loki hostel if you’re up for a bit of a party. The Salkantay trek was awesome and the best one to do if you’re not booked on the Inca trail. Arequipa was a lot more beautiful than Lima and if you get time I suggest you go to the Colca Canyon.

I hope everyone’s enjoying these lengthy reads. Apologies for that, but they have become a bit of a diary for me these days.

Mountaineer Michael

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