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Published: June 17th 2006
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Well, what do I say, the past few days were awesome. Not only because of the trek I was on but more importantly the people and the experience. Sunday started with a 4:30AM pick-up at the hostal that continued around town to pick up my fellow traveling companions--Tareq, a 24 y.o. originally from Kuwait and more recently New York whos travelling for the next 6+ months. He reminded me of Mike Johnson in the eyes and smile and cousin Brett in skruffy beard and curly locks (for those who know them). Next stop we picked up 2 cuties by the names of Holly and Lauren. Both 23 y.o grads from CU and traveling for the next 4-5 months. I knew they were going to be OK from the get go- anyone smiling and laughing at that nasty hour will be great to travel with. We moved onto our bus and ventured off on a "3 hr" bus ride that had a slight delay. I think b/c of a flat tire. We only nearly died twice as we made our way to a remote town called Mollepata where we duted the cobwebs and had our first breakfast together. With packs loaded on
mules we carried minimal and headed up the valley toward the base of Mt. Umbatay. For the most part it was dirt road and stretches of steep trail climbing (aka shortcuts). We hiked for about 9 hours through high altitude vegetation and various "towns" and "markets". None-the-less, it was a day full of sweat, coca leaves, and getting to know some new friends. We camped at the bases of 2 beautifully rigid and unclimbable sacred mountains in the pastures of a "town". Although very cold at night we ate, partied and cheered on the full moon over the ridge. What a beautiful place. Day 2 started at 6:30am with the usual breakfast-tea(usually coca) white bread discs, soup of some sort and pancakes. This was to be the toughest of all days, however only the first 3-4 hrs were any struggle, gaining 1,000 meters to the pass primarily over baren landscape up to the snow line. (unfortunately I still haven´t figured out the whole photo download to this blog. It would definitely make it more exciting. Look for possible e-mail attachments) After 30+ minutes at the pass, we wandered back the other side with amazing views the entire way, slowly entering
the tree line and lush forests. Our campsite was a cool little "town" with chickens, mules, kids and pigs roaming around. With an attempt to really do damage on our bottle of rum purchased in Mollepata and have a team bond, we all hit the wall after a couple beers and dinner. This site was nestled at the junction of 2 rivers amongst 3 2-3 thosand meter ridges in the middle of absolutely nowhere. With another early rise, Day 3 was pretty basic, more hiking a narrow trail along a steep hillside for about 2-3 hrs where we stopped and had lunch. At this point we sent our mules back and continued for an hour by mini-bus. Thses are the parts you can´t really describe, except take dirt road, no railings or rules, packed to the gills, and a 1000 ft drop inches away from the edge of your tires. Continue on switchbacks that were designed for Yugos and rail-free bridges barely the width of the bus. After all that, we settled in Santa Teresa. Now this place is where you want to invest your money. We hit the hot springs before dinner and tried to "clean-up." This was the
night multiple groups of travellers let loose, knowing the next day wasn´t too demanding. After multiple bottles of rum and beers, we danced to imported "hits" with locals, and fellow travellers until 2:30am. Only to be woken at 7am and told breakfast was ready and time to strap on the pack. Needless to say, Day 4 started hungover yet well worth it. We walked through town toward the "cable car" we were to ride across the river in. This was delayed by some TNT they were setting off across the river, so Tareq and I decided to join the elementary kids in their recess soccer game. One can only imagine what they thought of the crazy gringos in thongs and the clothes from the night before. The cable car ride was great-suspended about 60 ft above and travelling maybe 80 yards across- we zipped across in a 3x6 ft iron tray to the other side. After a short walk, we had the option to walk the next 2 hrs on flat dirt road or pay $1 and ride in the back of the truck with 15 locals and their goods. No brainer! We spent lunch and roughly 2 hrs at
a town/hydroelectric plant where the train tracks stop beyond Machu Picchu. From here we hiked the railroad tracks for a few hours to the tourist town of Aguas Caliente, last stop for all those going up top M.P. Cool little town sunk into the end of 2-3 very steep valleys. From here we regrouped, had dinner and called it a night before our 5:30am departure up to M.P. Day 5 consisted pretty much of hanging out at the sacred Inca site of M.P. with terraces, alpacas and amazing views and ruins. I must confess, it was amazing, but somewhat blown out of proportion with all the hype he bagins as soon as you arrive to Cusco. Not to mentionthe days leading up to it were really spectacular, and way less Disneyland like. We cruised around with our guide gaining all the history for 2 hrs as we watched the sun rise. Many photos taken, then I opted for a little ciesta on the terraces in the sun for awhile. I then regrouped with my lady friends and ventured up the rising peak of waynapicchu (seen in all pics of M.P.) to get a birds eye view of the ruins and
find Tareq. Basically imagine wet, dirty steps up a face of 50-70 degrees and cables to hold onto intermittently. All in all, it was an amazing 5 days with 3 great people whom I´m sure our paths will cross again and an experience of a lifetime. It wasn´t easy, nor fun to say good-by last night as I went on my own to a small town in the Sacred Valley 2 hrs from M.P. while they continued back to Cusco. I´m already missing my traveling companions as I spent the day walking around both Ollantaytambo and Urubamba. Urubamba is a cool little town where it takes 6 hrs to have 4 kg of laundry done. I walked the streets and spent time in the main plaza sitting in the sun, jounalling and watching the school kids walk through at all hrs of the day. After the past few days, I´m excited to move south toward the peru/Bolivia border where more adventure awaits and hopefully fellow travelers. I´m unsure where I¨m sleeping tonight, hopefully catching a bus to Pisac (1hr down valley) where more ruins and picturesque sp? landscape awaits. From there I´ll probably head back to Cusco for the afternoon
and catch a night bus to Arequipa.
I can´t believe its only been a week. That trek was just what I was looking for. If you read this- thanks for the awesome memories T.,H., and smiling L. See you down the road.
Minus a ton of itching bug bites and the normal dirt and grime, I´m as healthy as can be. Hope all are well.
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