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There are 3 choices for trains to Aguas Caliente ( the last stop before Machu Picchu). #1 is the Backpacker. For obvious reasons I did not choose this one. While I greatly admire those hardy souls who trudge up the Inka Trail for 4 days, I do not want to sit next to them for 4 or more hours on an enclosed train. Eewww! #2 is the Vista - Dome. It has windows on the roof panels so you can see all the majesty of the mountains as you climb to M. Picchu. #3 is The Hiram Bingham, a luxury train run by the Orient Express Co. It costs about $400 round trip which is more than twice what the Vista Dome costs but, I was told, you do get a lovely dinner. So just like Goldilocks, I chose the middle one.
I had to get up at 4:30 AM( Lois, can you believe that?). A taxi picked Val and I up at 5:30 and by 6 we were on the train. It was lovely with a linen covered table ready for, well , I had no idea. Val and I sat opposite an adventurous mother and daughter from Tampa. We had a lot to talk about as they seemed to be kindred souls in seeking the 'road less traveled' (or trampled) but still taking into account physical limitations of being well over 60 years of age. We spent an enjoyable few hours sharing travel stories and talking about our next trips and what places are on our 'bucket lists'. Before long we were served a delicious little breakfast- a totally unexpected treat.
But this was nothing compared to the ride back to Cusco the next day. This time Val and I had a little table to ourselves. After the little 'snack' was served we settled down to read or take a nap. But this was not to be as soon there was a man dancing in the aisles dressed in a face mask and traditional costume covered with beautiful embroidery. He held an imitation baby lamb which he somehow was able to manipulate so that it appeared to be dancing too. In reality he was the quiet little steward who helped the other workers on the train. But with the mask on he was, well, in your face. After the surprise of his dancing we again settled down. Only now we were treated to a fashion show featuring our sweet stewardess. She had taken her hair out of a severe bun, applied full make-up and was now a hot little 'chica' sashaying up and down the train aisle in alpaaca ponchos and sweaters. Not to be outdone, the tall, very Inca looking steward, who was very serious and all business, came out and strutted up and down the aisle in beautiful alpaca sweater creations. He could get a job with GQ immediately! The show went on and on and the train car was getting a bit raucous with hoots, whistles and clapping. It sure made a 4- 5 hour train ride go by quickly. And made us relaxed for the rather treacherous approach into Cusco where it takes almost an hour to negotiate the hills down to the train station as many switchbacks are involved.
Did I mention the rain? It was overcast and cloudy our whole way up to M. Picchu and just as we got to the train station it started to pour. Thank goodness the 'poncho ladies' were there selling their brightly colored plastic ponchos for 2 soles ( about .75 cents). We walked downhill to our hotel, the Plaza ( sister hotel to El Presidente), a very small and sweet place right across from the rushing river. We were given a front room that had spectacular views of the river, the chasm, and mountains. Since it was raining and there is really nothing to do in Aquas Calientes but shop, we took a long nap, and then headed out for dinner. I would suggest you avoid Toto's, even though it overhangs the river and has a great views. They have a buffet that is overpriced and not very good and they started to put all the food away before we even finished our meal.
The rain had started again so we had to buy more ponchos as we had left ours in our hotel.
The next morning was overcast but not raining. I took all my ponchos with me as my plan was to find a quiet out of the way spot to sit and meditate and/ or gaze at the incredible beauty that is Machu Picchu. Since this was my 3rd. visit I did not feel the need to climb all over the ruins as I had on my other two visits. This time, for me, it was all about absorbing the energy of this sacred place and committing to indelible memory the stunning vistas that surround you when you are on top of Machu Picchu. The secret to having the place almost to yourself is to ride one of the buses up early in the morning and stay there till around 11ish. Usually the only ones there are small tour groups and Inka trail hikers. After 11, the 'day-trippers' arrive. Hoards of groups, many with young people who are talking on cell phones or yelling to each other. For me, this is the signal telling me it is time to depart.
For me Machu Picchu is a sanctuary and a sacred place. While it doesn't have the walls of a cathedral, it still has an aura of being a sacred place. To see and hear some tourists chattering loudly, yelling across open spaces, treating the place with disrespect and/or not respecting others quest for silence, is difficult for me. It is not Disneyworld or a theme park. It is a fantastic place that has been preserved for all to appreciate and understand the Inka empire. To see their buildings that have lasted over 500 years, through earthquakes and floods: buildings that are held together with no mortar is to admire engineers, mathematicians, astronomers and wise leaders.
I ask any of you who plan to make the trip to Machu Picchu to please respect it and respect those who have journeyed there for whatever reason. Respect the stillness and beauty of the mountains. Respect the work of the Inkas, respect those who want to pray or meditate. If you want to chat constantly, then please, please, stay at your hotel or wait tull you go outside the ruins.
Only a few more days on Peru. I urge anyone thinking of coming to do so. It is a lovely place with lovely people. If you are coming on your own I can recommend several tour companies to help you.
www.southamericantravelss.com , Pilar Olivares. She made all our arrangements for Machu Picchu. Her office is on Procuradores 50 just off the Plaza de Armas
www.perutravelandliving.com ,Washington Farfan. He is specializing in tours that will give people insight into how Peruvians live. perutravelandliving@hotmail.com
Only a few more days here in this lovely country... Carolyn ( gunga)
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the soul cultivator
Claire Hall
Here Here......
Well said about its sacredness and the unnecessary cell phone abuse from the parties of tourists who may as well be on a 18-30 holiday brawl. Im so glad you had a wonderful time.