IncaTrail

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Day 145 Sunday 4^th March

Up at 5.45am for our adventure, we had breakfast and finalised our packing. We are doing a Geckos Tour and were given a duffel bag that our sleeping bag and personal stuff could go into but it could not weigh more than 5kg, reception had scales so we could check as this is the bags that the porters carry. We left our main backpacks in the room to go into storage while we were on the trail and only had to carry small day packs with cameras, sunscreen, water etc. We did not end up leaving till 6.30am and travelled by bus to Ollantaytambo where we stopped for a toilet break and any last minute supplies that maybe needed. We had already brought everything but needed the toilet break. We were carrying 2 litres of water each and had been told that each morning we could fill the bottles up with boiled water provided at each campsite so we did not need to buy anymore bottled water on the trek. You could buy water on day one and two along the trek from locals, but there was none on day 3 and 4 so we stuck to the boiled water supplied.

The road out to the start of the hike was a single lane dirt road with continuous buses, cars and truck wanting to go in both directions so a lot of time was wasted with Mexican standoffs till one of us had to reverse up to a point where we could pass. Later another tourist told us they had to stop because a truck carrying porters had crashed down an embankment as the brakes had failed and the truck was being pulled out luckily no one was hurt and the porters jumped on their bus to get to the trek.

We arrived at the starting point where we were handed snacks for the day and took the group photos and had to go through a check point where we showed our tickets and had our passports stamped into the National Park for the Inca trail. Here all the porter’s bags were also checked for weight as they are now only allowed to carry 25kg, but once on the trail we saw quite a few that were carrying much more, one of them looked to be about 40kgs.

From here we crossed a foot suspension bridge that spanned the raging Urubamba River and started the trek at 9.45am it was a fairly steady pace and not too difficult. We did see some Inca ruins across the river from a distance, which were three houses. Later on we came across the impressive ruins of Llactapata. We couldn’t wander through the old Incan town but viewed it from a ridge and it was our first taste of what was to come. Along the way there were “private toilets” where you paid one sol for a squat toilet, but it was clean. We stopped at 12.30 at the halfway point for a break before pushing on to lunch at about 2.30pm. This was a full production the porters had raced ahead of us carrying everything some of them had stopped here set up a large tent, table & chairs and cooked lunch which included entrée, soup and main course.

The last part of the walk was a bit steeper and slowed us down a little, it had started to drizzle rain and was slowly getting heavier, but we made it to the campsite at Wayllabamba by 4.30pm. Here the porters had all arrived and set up our tents and put our duffel bags in the tents and lunch porters had also arrived and set up the tent for afternoon tea and were preparing for dinner. We were at campsite number 19 which was basically a green patch of land that had one squat toilet at the bottom of a slippery path, this one toilet was for 35 people (19 porters, 14 tourists and 2 guides). Tied outside the toilet were two donkeys that were crapping all around the toilet which created landmines to get to the toilet, they were very placid and no one was kicked by them even when you had to walk behind them or move them so you could get into the toilet. Note that there are no showers on the trail so our bath each night were baby wipes so you can image after four days on the trail the humans were starting to smell and all our clothes were wet from rain.

Dinner was another full production with soup, mains and sweets they do an amazing job and really looked after us. We retired to our tents and settled in for the night as did the rain, the only thing that was not settled was my (Shelley) stomach it was doing loop the loops all night and I was freezing cold and could not get warm.



Day 146 Monday 5^th March

The wakeup call was at 5.45am with Carlos (assistant guide) and one of the porters giving us a cuppa to have while we packed and got everything out of the tents before breakfast. This was so the porters could pack everything up and get everything to the next campsite. The breakfast included porridge, toast and a pancake with smiley faces in chocolate sauce. Unfortunately my stomach was still not good and when everyone took off for the day I was still in the toilet. Dodgy tummies on this trek are common and a few other people also got it. I was determined not to let it beat me, so Scott and I headed off but I could not find my walking rhythm and was very slow. I kept moving with lots of breaks and kept pushing up hill, today we are walking 9 km with 5km up from 3,000 metres to the summit Warmi Wanuska (Dead Woman’s Pass) at 4,200 metres (this makes it nearly a 1:5 grade track). We made it to the top and by now it was pouring rain so we only stopped for a short while to get some photos of us, the two drowned rats, and then started the 4km descent to the campsite at 3,580 metres. This was a steep decline and very slippery with the water flowing down the path, along this path was another toilet stop which I really appreciated because my stomach was gurgling so loud Scott could hear it over the pouring rain.

We made it to the campsite and got settled and ready in plenty of time for 2pm lunch I am glad it is a short day so I had time to recoup. Unfortunately lunch did not stick, so I took some tablets and by dinner things were better. The campsite is located in a beautiful spot in a valley under cascading waterfalls and alongside a fast flowing stream. The toilet situation was no better here as there were only 2 toilets (1 female and 1 male) but we had more people camping here so every time we went there was a queue.



Day 147 Tuesday 6^th March

Woke up feeling much better and ready for the day’s trek, we started with the same routine of a wakeup call and breakfast and we were underway by 7.30. Today’s walk was much more interesting up until now the walk has been nice but not spectacular, also I should say approximately 500 people enter the trail each day about 250 tourist and another 250 are porters and guides. This means you are never alone, it is crowded and noisy and you need to listen out for the porters coming so you can move to the mountain side so they can run past. The porters are amazing they are usually running past you with the packs as you see them pass you can usually tell what they are carrying some have the tourists duffel bags, other tents or cooking supplies (some with eggs on the top and we saw none broken), or 15kg gas tanks for cooking.

Our walk today started by going straight up hill to the second pass of the trail. The Paqaymayu campsite sits at 3580m and the second pass was at 3900m, not as bad as yesterday, but we were all tired so it was slow going. Halfway up we came across the first Incan ruins for the day, Runkurakay. This like a lot of sites along the track was a rest spot for the Incan Messengers who ran between towns and they were situated every 15km or so. It was basically a small round outpost but it had great views of the area and gave us all an opportunity to rest and of course take another group photo. Our guide had given us 2 hours to climb to the top of the pass but in the end we got there in 90 minutes, but everyone was stuffed. From here on the path went downhill and the steps as usual were huge and every ones knees were starting to ache from the pounding. After hiking for an hour we came to the large complex ruins of Sayacmarka (yes, all Incan towns have large unpronounceable names). To reach the ruins we had to ascend a very steep 100 step stairway, but it was well worth the effort. A lot of the stonework here was reconstructed and our guide could point out many of the mistakes made by the early Archaeologists. The main area was surrounded by a sloping wall that had 7 windows in it. It is assumed that this may have been a temple to the rainbow but because all Incan communication documents were destroyed by the Spaniards no one knows for sure, and this is pretty much the same for all Incan sites including Machu Picchu.

From this point on we were traversing along the original Incan Trail. Most of what we had already walked was just a recent track constructed to torture mugs like us, so it was a good feeling to be walking where the Incans once trod. The authentic trail was also a lot better to use because it was generally better constructed, less broken stones to trip over and the steps were about half the height. Half an hour after Sayacmarka we all had a toilet stop at a small campsite and then we pushed on once more towards the third and final pass. The trail at this point started heading upwards once more but it was just a steady ramp with a few steps. At one point we had to pass through a 15m tunnel carved by the Incans. Shelley had been freaking a little bit about it but in the end it wasn’t a tiny rat hole but a large high passageway.

At midday we finally made it to the third and final pass at 3650m. This was where we stopped for lunch and everyone was relieved because basically from here on the trail was all downhill to Machu Picchu. As always our dining tent was up with a large table and chairs for everyone and no sooner had we sat down than we were being served our 4 course meal. At the completion of lunch we started off again and as we trekked along the porters would come galloping pass with all the equipment so that when we arrived at camp that same tent would be sitting there waiting for us. From the top of the third pass to our camp we had to ascend 1000 metres from 3650m to 2650m, and the steps were huge and slippery. Everyone struggled to keep upright and nearly all of us had small scares, but the porters wearing only battered sandals and carrying their huge loads would run down them like a runaway truck. Halfway to the camp we came across the Incan town of Intipata, this was once a large outpost and today only a small portion has been restored with most of it still consumed by the jungle. We only had a brief look and talk here before pushing on once more and as we did the rain returned. After trudging on downward for what seemed like an eternity our camp came into sight along with mount Machu Picchu which sits in front of the Incan town so this at least rose our spirits knowing that the end was now in sight. Around 4.15 we finally stumbled into the Winay Wayna camp after walking 16 kilometres and pushing over 2 high passes.

Our guide told us to have a quick toilet stop and drop off our bags and that he was then going to take us on another “5 minute” walk to the second best Incan site in Peru. At 5 he came around and collected us all and true to his word 5 minutes later we were standing in the beautiful Incan town of Winay Wayna. This place isn’t as grand as Machu Picchu but on reflection we both think it was possibly better, just because of its location next to a waterfall and the fact that there were only a handful of people at the site and our group almost had it to ourselves. Like nearly every Incan town the majority of the stonework and engineering of Winay Wayna is in the multitudes of terraces that run down the hill from the peak. The thing I never realised with the terraces in all these Incan towns was that the soil that filled them was bought up hill from the fertile fields in the valley as the soil in the mountains wasn’t good enough to grow crops. This fact adds to the amazing effort that these guys put in to building these cities in the clouds.

Just as it was getting darker we returned to our camp and prepared for dinner. The cooks also were preparing for dinner as they washed their meat and veggies in the hand basin next to the toilets where everyone was washing their hands. As you would imagine “stomach bugs” are a common problem and by this stage quite a few of our group had got a small dose of it, but now at least I knew why. I am sure if the World Health Organisation did an assessment of the track they would condemn it. This camp once again only had two toilets for well over fifty people so there was always a queue. Despite seeing the food preparation techniques we both ate well before retiring to our tent. I should mention also at this point that our tents at this site were arranged along a terrace with the entrance only a foot away from a 2 metre drop, which certainly would stop us from springing out in the morning. The rain which had been steady all afternoon increased after we got to our tent and through the night it became torrential. Laying there in our smelly damp small tent, with the broken zippers surrounded by all our damp clothes listening to the pouring rain, all I could think of was “thank Christ this is our last night”.



Day 148 Wednesday 7^th March

Today is the day we see Machu Picchu and we were woken up at 3.45am for our 6km walk, the porters needed everything packed up so they could catch the 5.55am train to get back to Ollantaytambo to start another trek.

We had breakfast and walked down to the check point that would allow us onto the trail to Machu Picchu in the dark with torches on our heads, we lined up here till 5.30am when we were allowed through. By now it was light enough to put the torches away, from here it was a very quick pace which was a shame as this section of the trek was very beautiful but you are too scared to look up because the trail is very slippery and rocky. This has been one of the problems with this trek it is on a schedule and the path is uneven so your head is down looking at the path. Along this section our guide told us this is where most of the injuries happen and we saw a girl on the ground with a twisted ankle, another crying saying it hurts and another who apparently got frightened by the height at a section where there have been a landslide and the track was quite narrow.

We made it to the “Gringo Killer” which are 50 Inca steps to the Sun Gate, our guide had told us these are very steep and hard and we would have to climb up them like monkeys. We were all worried that at the end of such a long walk this would be so hard, but when we arrived it was not that bad. The 50 steps were steep and every few steps I had to use my hand to steady myself but we all made it up them no problem to have a group photo at the top.

Unfortunately the Sun God was not happy today and the view of Machu Picchu was fogged in and only gave us glimpses of the site from this point. We waited till 7.30am but the mist did not lift so we headed down to the site which took about 1 hour and by now we were starting to see day sightseers. We had to exit the site and here we could have a break and then re-enter the site and got our passports stamped with the date to prove we had completed the Inca Trail. Our guide took us around the site for a tour and by now the day tour groups were flocking in, they allow 3,000 people in everyday. The tour went for about one and a half hours, it was great and then we were left to walk around by ourselves. The rest of the group were meeting for lunch at the nearby town of Aguas Calientes at 1.00pm, but we decided to stay at the site for as long as possible and meet them later at 2.15pm at the restaurant. Machu Picchu has the most beautiful setting and is amazing to see and by 11.30 the mist had cleared and we had perfect views for those postcard pictures. We walked all over the site and then found a spot to sit overlooking the area which was a little quieter and try to take in everything. It is an amazing place but there are just too many people everywhere including the Inca Trail but it is a major attraction which everyone wants to see.

We caught the bus down to the town and we had a quiet beer by ourselves to celebrate completing the trail and at 2.15pm joined the group. It was now raining again, at the restaurant we collected our duffel bags and walked to the train station to get to Ollantaytambo, this train line had been damaged two years ago with the floods. The river that runs through town is a torrent and very high as it is the wet season and the train line follows the river at sections the rapids were so strong and there were mini waterfalls in the river. The train itself is pretty plush and served refreshments it is such a contrast from what we have been through. At Ollantaytambo we had to jump on a bus back to Cusco it was 5.00pm and it is a 2 hour trip, our driver was obviously not being paid by the hour as we flew back at break neck speed and arrived at 6.30pm.

Everyone raced to their rooms for a shower which meant that the hot water was running short we got showered and put clean dry clothes on. Scott and I went out for dinner and a few drinks and to reflect on what we had just done. It was good to do the trek, but I would not do it again it was just too busy and not enough time to enjoy your surroundings until you stopped at the designated breaks. We also struggled a bit with the whole “tour group” thing and we both vowed that the Galapagos Island will probably be our last one. Although our whole group was Australian and were all very nice, I can’t say I enjoyed being in their back pockets for 4 days….we are just not tour group people. We both felt that Torres Del Paine was a far more rewarding experience with the scenery being far superior and the fact that we could take it at our own pace rather than racing along in a group. Far too many people do the Incan Trail like some sort of race or just as some sort of bragging right and it does take the shine off the whole thing. As for Machu Picchu itself, it is well worth seeing but go by train and take along heaps of patience as the other tourists will drive you mad. We went to bed at 11.00pm and slept very well.

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Photos

Day Four
Llamas at Machu Picchu

Day One
Group photo at start

Day One
Suspension Bridge at start

Day One
Llactapata

Day One
Shelley and Scott at Llactapata

Day One
Wayllabamba Campsite number 19.

Day One
Donkeys outside the toilet

Day Two
Shelley walking up the path

Day Two
Shelley and Scott at the top of Dead Woman's Pass

Day Two
Scott on the other side of the pass.

Day Three
Looking back at our campsite for day two from the second pass

Day Three
Our group photo at Runkurakay

Day Three
Looking down at Runkurakay

Day Three
Ruins of Sayacmarka

Day Three
Shelley descending the third pass

Day Three
Trail from the top of the third pass

Day Three
One of the Inca Ruins

Day Three
Terraces of Intipata

Day Three
Ruins of Intipata

Day Three
Porters at Intipata

Day Three
Overlooking Winay Wayna

Comments

[traudy glasencnik]

Amazing!!
Looking at those photo's, reading your rants and knowing some of it was tough, makes it all seem worth while, in saying that I can appreciate your comments on the overlaoad of tourists and the limited time to enjoy the veiws, the rain didnt help any. hahahaha Scotty that comment from within the dampness of the tent made me laugh. I'd do it all, Torres del Paine too, that was an incredible trek also. I wish I was doing exactly what you are doing, wish I was seeing and experiencing it all just like you two are. What an amazing trip your having, isnt life wonderful xx