Hiking at 4800m, camping in style (well kind of...), breathtaking scenery and more Incan ruins
Saturday 26th September
Up VERY early for a 6am breakfast, then a bus ride to the Sacsayhuaman (sexy woman as everyone says!) ruins on the outskirts of Cusco. Very impressive, big temple ruins, and hidden tunnels which we got to walk through, although we were a little wary as someone has been lost in them and was never found! There were also lots of cool natural rock slides which were super fun to slide down, although it did result in a blood blister on my finger!
Quick stop in the little town of Pisaq to purchase bamboo walking sticks to aid us up the steep mountains over the next few days. Then bus to some more ruins near Pisaq, which involved an hour´s trekking, and the specially purchased waterproof trousers even got an outing here! After plenty of Kodak moments, the minibus then took us to our campsite in the middle of no where. To get there involved VERY windy, steep, track like roads. All of us were relieved to arrive at the campsite in one piece and to see our tents already set up for us. We camped on the football pitch of a tiny community school, and were greeted by a little tea party, followed by a delicious 3 course meal cooked by our trek staff. We were spoiled throughout the whole trek by their excellent cooking!
Dinner was followed by a lesson from the school teacher in Quechan (the native language of the mountain dwellers) and Spanish. All their words seemed to have some form of ´allen'in them, so we decided to dub our team "Team Allen" in honour of this! Quite an early night, due to another early start the next day.
Sunday 27th September
First day of hardcore trekking!!
We were awakened by our lovely crew handing us hot mugs of tea to ease us into the very early and cold morning start (around 5.30am). Fresh breakfast, before a brisk pace up the mountain. Thankfully our tents and big overnight bags were carried by donkeys and llamas, although it did make us feel bad to see them and the crew (the oldest of whom was 68!) over take us up the mountain! Lots of beautiful lakes, valleys, skys etc. We tried chewing coca leaves (green gunk!) to deal with the altitude and excercise. They did seem to have some effect (numb cheeks and rongues etc!!) but they tasted vulgar, so they were soon abandoned in favour of chewing gum. One guy in our group (terry) loved them so much that he actually had a wad in each cheek and was speeding up the mountain!!
The years of hikinh in the Swiss Alps have certainly paid off, as I seemed to be at the front of the group most of the time. Añthough I must admit this is probably also in part due to my little competitive streak! We stopped for lunch, where a little tent had already been set up for us, and the crew (who had overtaken us!) had cooked us a yummy 3 course meal, which included a strange brain looking fruit called grenadilla. Tasty!
More trekking in the afternoon. The altitude affected everyone in different degrees, but thankfully I seemed to be ok, although a little breathless at times. Unfortunately Fiona wasn´t well on our second evening, but thankfully recovered quickly! We visited the home of the President of the local community, who's house was just along from the valley in which we were camping. He was called Raymundo, and was very chatty and friendly, and very curious to hear about our lives in the UK. He ives in a tiny mud hut which consists of one room where they do all the cooking, eating and sleeping, along with their animals! He said he would never give up this lifestyle though, as there is no stress and he is free to do what he wants. I guess he has a point but I don´t think I could survive without some luxuries (like a proper toilet instead of a hole!)
Dinner was another 3 course affair, and included the typical Peruvian grain 'quinoa'. Its actually really yummy and very nutritious, so it was good to fortify us after all the trekking. The choclate pudding kind of ruined the healthiness though....!
After dinner we were taught a Peruvian dice game called "Ambicioso" which was really good fun, and was helped by a few shots of Pisco to warm us all up!
Unfortunately our tents froze over in the middle of the night, so it was not pleasant trying to unzip it!
Monday 28th September
Hardest and highest day of trekking!
Once again we were awakened by our porters bearing hot tea and hot water to wash in. Breakfast was very hearty - two massive steaming bowls of cinammon porridge...oh yeas, spot the true Scot...wel half Scot!
This definitely set me up for the very intense morning of trekking, where we reached the highest point on our trail - 4800m abover sea level! We celebrated our victory at the top (where there was a crucifix) with some photos and snacking! Thankfully it was all downhill to our lunch spot, where we relaxed in the sun and enjoyed ANOTHER delicious and very filling three course meal. I almost felt like rolling down the rest of the mountain after that amount of food!
Our last camp site was beside a beautiful river, and we enjoyed some mulled wine whilst playing the very exciting Peruvian dice game and our last 3 course dinner cooked by our great porters. Rich even got to ride one of the donkeys which carries our gear...although it may have been the ambulance donkey which follows us in case someone falls while hiking.
Tuesday 29th September
Last day of proper trekking!
Pancake and maple syrup breakfast (seriously, the porters spoiled us!), then downhill through some gorgeous valleys and more wooded areas. I was even allowed to lead the group whilst our lovely guide Smithy waited on the slower members of our team. After a long morning, we finally reached civilisation (a road!) and our minibus, woooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!! A victorious photo marked the moment, then we all climbed aboard to head to the next village for some celebratory drinks!
The houses which have recently made chicha (beer from maize) display red flags outside their homes, meaning anyone is welcome to stop and buy some. We stoppped at one of these and had some (not to my liking, very yeasty!) and played a traditional stone throwing game called "Sapo" or "toad". Our guide was having a field day downing pints of chicha! Mucho fun!!
Checked into our hotel in Ollyantambo. SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO good to have a hot shower and a proper bed and toilet!! Luxury! We headed out to some more ruins, where Ben´s camera case had to be rescued by Smithy, as he had dropped it down a very dangerous prickly hill!! Dinner was in a lovely little restaurant - cocktails and burritos, mmmmmmm!
Great night´s sleep in a proper bed!
Wednesday 30th September
MACHU PICCHU!!!!!!
5am start with an hearty breakfast in the hotel. Little train (with complimentary snack pack!) took us to the bottom of Macchu Picchu...little did we know that quite a lot of hiking was still involved! We wandered round the very impressive ruins, including the sun temple, the sun dial and the three window temple. Many photos were of course taken!
It was an extremely warm day, so only 6 of us opted to walk the extra 50minutes UPHILL to the famous Sun Gate. Fortified by lots of snakcing (walnuts = powerfood I´m telling you!) we headed up the very steep stone path. It was worth it! It was an amaaaaaaaazing panoramic view over Machu Picchu and all the ruins, and made you really appreciate the sheer size of it all. Downhill was of course much more pleasant!
After lunch in the village we had the most bizarre train ride back to Ollyantambo. After a snack pack, we were given a dance by soem guy in tradition devil like costume, then a fashion show of Peruvian clothes!! A guy in our group (gavin) got a little carried away and ended up getting a telling off from the train staff...hilarious!!
I purchased some traditional choclo con queso (corn on the cob with cheese) for the bus journey to Cusco, although witht he windy roads that wasn´t perhaps the best idea!
Once in Cusco we headed out for a massive dinner and mojitos (I heart happy hour!) before hitting the dancefloor in the bar and then a club. Some very scandalous antics by some group members that evening!! We were supposed to try and stay up for 34 hours i.e. until 5am, but I only mamnaged until 3.30am...still, good effort!!!!!!!
Thursday 1st October
Lazy day!
Had a little lie in before the cleaner threw us out. Big breakfast in an English style pub (cinammon porridge is addictive!) followed by an indulgent pedicure for 10 soles (about 2.50 pounds!). Even Rich treated himself to one after all the trekking! It rained heavily today so we just had a lazy day.
Met a friend from Edinburgh and headed out to dinner in a German restaurant (Granja de Heidi) which was very fresh and healthy, although I ruined this by being the only one to cheekily order some German cake for dessert......
Irish pub for some fun, although not too late a night as we were leaving Cusco the next day for the little village of Rachqi for our homestay......staying in the locals in their very traditional homes!!