Day 3 - Day of Neverending Downs

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14.09.08 - We were supposed to have an early start but the porters overslept so we got an extra 20 minutes in bed. I´d been awake since the break of dawn so it was little consolation! Had ham omelette for breakfast in the food tent. Amazing!

Set off and it was uphill going again, which I am in the minority by preferring! Passed a fort at Runkurakay, from where we could see the first pas. It didn´t look as high as it felt to climb! It was more up to the second pass, which was a measely 3800m. Everyone else stopped for a breather but it was all downhill from there so I set off in advance and made pretty good time, as they didn´t catch me up till we were almost at the ruins of Sacaymarka. These are very impressive, but I´m afraid I only aw them from a distance as they were at the top of some very steep steps. Instead Judy, Simon and I watched the hummingbirds buzzing around the trees (there are a lot of them on the trail but I couldn´t get one on camera!), and took a breather.

We were so fast from then on that we had to wait for hours for lunch, which was a Peruvian dish, lomo saltado, enjoyed at a spot overlooking the rainforest.

The walking was flat for a while, with rainforest and amazing viewpoints to be seen almost continually.

It was then to the top of the third pass (3670m), which was easy going after the previous two. From there it was down some truly horrific steep steps to Phuyupatamarka, a set of Incan terraces with a chain of Incan baths.

After that the down kept going. To cut a long story short, I found it pretty difficult but I kept going, as I was determined to get to camp so I could rest! I spent most of the afternoon at the back of the group. Finally at the end of the trail we saw more Incan terraces at Winay Wayna (you get a bit terraced out!), and then I could rest.

The campsite was busier as everyone stops there prior to the final push to Machu Picchu. We were near the restaurant area and I was worried everyone would party the night through but people were quite sedate. We had a final nack and dinner in the food tent, which we barely touhed as we were stuffed from lunch, Elliott being the exception! After that the porters were introduced to us and we gave them a tip and a round of applause. They really are amazing, and do the trail on an almost continuous basis, rarely having time to see their families. It seems quite a sad way of life to me!

Then to bed, before the 4am start the next day.

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