Trekking in the Andes

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Trekking in the Andes - 15/16 October

Hello all,

Survived my weekend trekking in the Andes. It was incredible!! We set out at 8am on Saturday morning in glorious sunshine in a fully loaded minibus (photo attached), and drove up to the first village (our starting point at 13,000 feet high) where we met the llamas. The llamas followed us for the trek and carried our rucksacks for us. I was happy to carry my own as I was travelling very light, but was strongly advised by Pancho (our Peruvian guide) to put my bag on the llama. I soon understood why!!

We climbed 1,500 feet across 4.5 miles. It took the grand total of 6 hours (including a break for lunch). At home I would have completed that in 2-3 hours, but I totally underestimated the impact of altitude. We all took an altitude pill at the start, but it had little effect.

The first symptom was an excruciating headache which pretty much stayed put for the next two days. The higher we climbed, the more difficult it became to breathe. It was even hard to talk. We were stopping roughly every 20 steps for a breather. Every time I lifted my leg to climb it hurt due to the build up of lactic acid in my muscles. We also had ponies with us to assist if anyone was really struggling. I was determined though, and made it to the top (14,500 feet above sea level - the equivalent of half way up Mount Everest!!) totally under my own steam. It felt like a major achievement. The climb up had been in sunshine, although the wind was pretty cold.

When we got to the top, Pancho performed a traditional ceremony where he provided fresh flowers and rose water to the god of the mountain to ensure that we had a safe trip (photo attached).

We then began our descent down the other side in snow!! It wasn´t lying, but there were flakes in the wind. We had to get our bags off the llamas and add lots of extra layers. We arrived at the peasant village in the mountains where we were sleeping on the floor of the school hall in sleeping bags (13,000 feet high).

Just before dinner, we visited a family in one of the peasant houses. You have never seen anything like it. The house is made of logs, and the gaps between the logs are not filled in (photo attached). There are 8 kids and 2 adults living in a space roughly equivalent to the size of my living room. They sleep, cook and eat in this space. Food is cooked on a real fire (using peat, logs and animal droppings from the mountain) in the middle of the room. Their diet consists mainly of barley soup, of the meat of alpaca and llamas which cannot be sold at market (usually the head and feet). The peasant children are all undernourished, and look much younger than their actual years. There is no electricity, and water is taken from the mountain stream. There is no chimney on the house, and therefore no escape from the smoke from the fire, except the gaps between the logs, which really isn´t enough. As a result, many of the people suffer from the effects of smoke (bronchitis etc). There is a communal latrine for the whole village - basically a hole in the ground surrounded by a tin hut with (amazingly) a roof!! There are two places marked for your feet and you have to aim!! Very interesting!! The peasant people speak little Spanish - mainly the historic Qechuan language of the Peruvian highlands. They live off the land, each owning herds of alpaca and llama. They sell the wool and meat at market. This visit was a real eye opener. I left feeling very emotional and very privileged to have the numerous options and choices available to me living in the developed Western world. The people seem happy though and the kids are lovely.

We had two local women with us who cooked up an amazing meal in the school hall on gas stoves. I felt extremely guilty eating when I knew that only a couple of hundred yards away, the peasant families were eating only barley soup or maybe a llama head. Made me realise (yet again) just how lucky I am.

I woke up the next morning (16 October) feeling awful - really suffering the effects of altitude. Headache, nauseous and stomach cramps. Had a few cups of mate de coca which helped. Once I was on my feet and outside I immediately felt a little better.

The first thing we did was to watch an alpaca being sheared. The animal was captured via lassoo (exactly as you see in the Western movies), brought to the ground and its feet tied to stop it kicking. The poor thing was very stressed and cried constantly. Apparently it was a baby and the first time it had been shorn. The owner appeared with a large (very blunt) knife and a sharp stone. The knife was sharpened and the process began. The farmers are obviously very experienced and this and have a proper technique. I had a shot too (photo attached). The poor alpaca cried consistently during the whole process, and looked very skinny at the end. The wool taken from the alpaca will be sold at market for 2-3 soles (the equivalent of 40-60 pence).

Next on the agenda was horse riding. We had a pack of horses which were led by the local peasant children, and we trekked across the mountains for approximately 3 hours. A great way to see the scenery and reduce the impact of altitude sickness. My lead was a kid called Raoul who spoke only Qechuan. A photo of Raoul and his horse which I rode on is attached. This was my first time on a horse (unless you count Blackpool beach when I was six), but it was great. Wasn´t quite prepared for the saddle soreness though, and can still feel it today!!

Pancho (our guide) runs these visits into the mountains. The peasant families involved are paid and also receive a small share of the profit, so it was a good way to see the sites and help them a little at the same time.

My enduring memories of this trip will be the peasant families. their children, the poverty that they live in, and the freezing cold. At one point I had five layers on top and two on the bottom. Never experienced cold like it - even on ski holiday in the French Alps. The scenery was amazing though, and the photos I have taken probably don´t so the Andes justice. We live in an incredibly beautiful world, and I´m so glad I had the chance to appreciate the Andes.

After lunch we headed back down the mountain to a natural hot spring, where we were all able to take a dip. I didn´t join as I had no swimming suit with me, but a photo of the others in the group is attached. They said it was great after having slept in our clothes and gone a full day without a proper wash. Afraid I just stank until I got back to base where there was (thankfully) some hot water for a nice long shower. Think I´ve managed 2 hot showers since I arrived. Remainder were either lukewarm or freezing cold!!

On the way back down the mountain we were stopped twice - once by the police, and once by the military - to check that we weren´t trfficking cocaine down into Lima. All very exciting!! Fortunately, none of us were arrested.

Was so tired last night I slept for almost 9 hours. Now suffering from an awful head cold (for someone who is rarely sick it´s a real pain), but some of the group are now in bed with sickness and fever, so guess I got off lightly. Apparently everyone goes down with something horrible in their second week here. If all I get is a cold, I won´t complain!!

Long update folks, but hope that you enjoy it. Please spare these people a thought now and again - especially when you´re over indulging on food, wine and beer, as I do too!!

Ciao

Lesley x

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