Andahuaylas to Ayachucho

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We´ve arrived. Ayachucho, where the streets are paved with..., well paved! And is my bottom glad about that.

I arrived in a bit of a hurry as it happened, convinced I was about to start frothing at the mouth following an earlier attack by a rather over excited canine acquatance I´d had the miss fortunte to have been biten into by, earlier. Having got somewhat accustomed to dogs of various sizes going mental at or in close proximity to my ankles coupled with stuggling to fight of frustration generated by the 6th or so day of digestion failure, a severly grated arse and an incredibly ineffective, inefficient and irratating cycling surface, I decided to stop pedalling as if the lack of circular motion might reduce the lunacy with which this beast was acting.

I can see now from its point of view, that this was christmas come early. Clearly it had been chassing the heels of cyclists at every opportunity for many a year and was as frustrated as I at not being able to catch a good mouthfull of calf due to the complex and speedy rotation that just further fueled its frustration. I could almost see the delight as it aimed and then launched it self with sufficient roatation to arrive at my calf with teeth either side to secure a fairly brief but decisive purchase. At this point, I must of regained a little presecence of mind, for I moved my leg which seemed sufficient for the very pleased beast to trot of down the road. Yesterday was hard, largely due to the surface - shale, sand, grit, gravel, up hills. Sore. I think if I have learnt one thing from this trip its to get a touring saddle rather than try such distances on a mountainbike one. Today was starting perfectly.

Still pleasent distraction that allowed me to leave other complaints behind, to a certain extent. we were heading for the metropolitain that is Andahualays. It was only after 7am and I thought it was a quick 1000m or so climb and then down all the way. Not particularly in the mood for catching rabies I decided to catch up with Dom, do the usual antiseptic thing and plough on. The latter part it appears I failed to communicate successfully to him, although I gather he worked it out as the day progressed, all though seemed to have missed the whole dog incident.

It wasn´t, 1000m up yes. Then even kilometer markers 77km from the top. Down to 57 down worries. Then the Peruivian road design philosophy kicked in. Although on the approach to each knuckle one could see the nice gentle downward slope of the valley we were suppose to be following, the road insisted on returning toward the hill, down between the fingers only to rise again to the level prior to the descent. For the second time on this trip, a couple of times, after about the eigth and ninth of these, I swore. I wasnt proud and it didn´t make me feel any better.

57 to 34 or 30 was hellish, it got better and once closer you figure even if all the last 10km is up on this shitty surface it´d still only take... A final massive up and down but the 2km marker at the brdige, the low point. Manageable. Arrive in the town, find a hotel, 50min before hospital shuts. Get room, lighting shower, lad there escourts me to hospital. Usual thing, one desk to ask for directions, across the courtyard to register, back to first to pay for ticket, new ticket, back to second with paid ticket, proceed. Seen quickly, they seem content with just washing it. Not really what I had in mind!

Eventually the fifteenth docotor/nurse turns up and explains they have no anti rabies jab and he dont think it very likely I need it anyway. Not much else to do, after lots of pointless debate return to hotel, raining now. Am allowed to used computer, try and restablish contact with Domingez. Slow computer, just logging in when I see him cycle past the window, bang on time. Rip out all the plug sockets as I jump up and out of reception following him up the road. All good! Well desevered beer.

The other days from Andahaulays, the first would have been dead short but for an alternative route we inadvertantly decided to take which ment just as we had nearly finsihed thew climb for the day we descended to our starting altitude and found another hill to do it again. Did mean the second day was muchas short, not much point in doing anymore as no place to stay. The thrid day was the worse road conditions by far, extremely hard work, arse lacerating, frustrating and apart from anything else lots of concentration required. Slow.

Still in amongst it all some great views, stretches of great down hill. Just about hung on over so tricky patches. No real car probelms, very quite roads. Managed to enjoy the vast majority, not a bad way to spend the last days off pisted roads, hard but well worth doing. The people in the villages totally different vibe from previously. Initially atleast much more at ease, in histerics as we approached let alone once we got there, stopped, spoke, touched them!

Did have some kids follow us up one stretch of hill, pulling me back as they tend to like to do (although one or two have pushed to be fair), so I thought. Far from it, a little up the hill, I realise they stolen my tools etc from my saddle bag. I guess boys will be boys.

See the fotos, 6 or 7 days left on the bikes, poss one in Pisco, leaving a couple in Lima all going well. Then we´re back!!!

Cheers for sticking with us, all the best, till next time!

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