lake titicaca, isla de sol, colca caynon

hello friends and family!

sorry for the lag in blog updates. the past 3 weeks have been a string of travel and trips, and i have been admittedly bad at checking in and carving out Internet time.

however, i am ready to amend the lapse, so get ready for some updates!

after a few days in la paz and the huyani potosi adventure, i set out for Copacabana (the Bolivian version), a small town on the southern shores of lake Titicaca. Copacabana, while somewhat geared to the traversing tourist, is also a nice place to kick back and relax for a few days. there are several day hikes and the requisite string of gringo restaurants and artisan shops, but more importantly....its the launching point for the isla del sol.

ever since starting my planning for South America, i have been hearing about the gorgeous and enchanting lake Titicaca. it is said to be amongst the highest navigable lakes in the world, straddling both Bolivia and Peru (not exactly sure the meaning of this, other than its a really high lake at 3820 m. that you can "traverse") however, its allure was not exaggerated. from every vantage point, endless streams of brilliant cobalt, sapphire, and indigo glisten and sparkle in the daylight. somehow, the sun always seemed to be shining, making it very easy to get instantly mesmerized by the gradients of color and almost interchangeable sprawl of water, sky, and clouds.
one of the most popular islands on lake Titicaca is the gorgeous isla del sol (island of the sun). according to Andean legend, the isla del sol is the birthplace of all civilization. it is here that Wiracocha, the Creator god, brought light into a dark world by directing the sun, moon, and stars to rise up out of the lake and take their place in the sky. the sun and moon then had children, who also rose out of the lake and were sent to the four corners of the earth. one of their sons, Manco Capac, was sent to Cusco, Peru to become the very first Inca and direct descendant of the sun.

hiking around the isla del sol is a very tranquil and spiritual experience, as you soak in the fact that this was the birthplace of one of the greatest civilizations in the history of the world, dating back to 1200 AD. the island itself is relatively sparse, peppered with green, cultivated patches of farmland; roaming donkeys, pigs and your occasional llama, and the remnants of the ancient Inca stone constructions and the original sun temple.

the Andean religion of the Inca's is based in mystical and environmental origins. the sun, the moon, the mountains, mother earth, water, wind, rain, and all other elements, were the backbone for their belief system and governed the prosperity and sufferings throughout daily life. there were no gods, but rather these elements and the profound belief in the interconnectedness of all things present in the three 'layers' of life: the 'heavens' or upper world, the world we live in, and the underworld.

more to come on the Andean religion and Inca culture...but the isla del sol was a good introduction to a incredibly advanced and influential early civilization. (unfortunately no pictures here, b/c someone forgot to charge her camera)

after Copacabana, i traveled across the border into southern Peru, to the city of Arequipa. although the only concrete sign of the passing between the rural farming communities of Bolivia and Peru was a small border station and a few money changing facilities, the first word to enter my head when entering Peru was...lush! it seemed almost instantly greener, with carefully planned plots of land and terraced stone walls spreading out in all directions. as we drove, modest clay and brick homes zoomed past, many times with the owners out in the fields, and various pigs, llamas, cows, and sheep, strewn about the landscape, pegged at the hoof with a small rope and left to graze and munch until dragged or herded to their next station.

arriving in Arequipa was also quite a surprise, as reading about Peru's "white city" in the guide books and online, i had mistakenly imagined a quaint, colonial setting with white buildings and churches on every other corner. instead, we arrived at night to the sprawl of lights in the distance, representing a lively and somewhat modern southern Peruvian city. however, the next morning's sunrise did reveal the colonial architecture of the city's center and the many buildings and churches made of sillar, a white volcanic rock, that creates an ethereal imagery, and supports the "white city" moniker.

while in Arequipa, i took advantage of a 3 day hike down the nearby colca canyon. the colca canyon is the deepest in the world, due to its 3,000 m. vaulting canyon walls, which are coated in green vegetation and farmland. the canyon was formed by tectonic shifting, but still craddles a bustling colca river that snakes its way all the way to the pacific ocean.

there are several small villages in the canyon, where close to 40,000 people still practice the old customs of the andean religions. for the most part, the villages are self-sufficient, relying on the native fruits and veg tables grown in the canyon and their own agricultural efforts. we were lucky enough to stay with one of the local families in a sort of modest bed and breakfast, nestled into one of the canyon walls. while we enjoyed a typical dinner of quinoa soup, rice, potatoes, and stew, we were kept entertained by the family chickens, pig, donkey, rabbits, and guina pigs. my other favorite part was the sampling of teas! using locally grown plants, teas of all varieties are concocted with the simple addition of hot water. not only do they taste good, but they also provide healing remedies ranging from curing sore throats, stomach pain, circulation, altitude sickness, menstrual normality and very important soul cleansing. these teas supplement the ever popular, soothing Coca Tea, the best cure for the altitude and an addictive "chew" for most local natives.

there is one doctor and two nurses located in one canyon town and smaller schools that the younger children attend. we were about 3 weeks early to witness the launch of the first electrical power source, which had recently been strategically brought down into the canyons and strung through the villages. a tangible sign of the modern world pushing its way into the ways of the past. the electricity will provide access to radios, and the occasional tv or refrigerator, still generally considered unnecessary equipment for the solitude and tranquility of the pueblo life.

the colca canyon is also home to the sacred condor, symbolizing the heavens or upper world and manifesting peace and serenity. the condors love the climate of the colca canyon, making it a great place to view their 3 1/2 foot wing span paragliding above the valley floors. condors are loyal monogamists, mating for life and living up to 70 years. they are also very responsible parents, and will choose not to mate unless they feel the conditions are perfect and they are pleased with their choice of nest. being in the vulture family, they feed only on dead animals, however, according to our guide, they have been known to fly a little too close to unsuspecting llamas who are precariously making their way along a high canyon trail, scaring them enough that they accidentally fall to their demise....and leaving the condor with a newly "found" dinner. that's what i call an entrepreneurial vulture!

all in all, it was a challenging, but fun hike...ending in a celebratory "night out" in the small town of cabanaconde, where we rested our sore legs and relived and critiqued the best of the early 80's music video's. nothing like rehashing the milli vanilli scandle, and seeing who was brave enough to sing along to cyndi lauper and def leopard to bring a group together!

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