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Published: August 8th 2007
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[youtube=dIixUyS1bqI][youtube=ypQvtilwpoc][youtube=M-fwCiR01IQ][youtube=xuKdL1mofRo]
The Colca Canyon ! One of those awaited trips, that should have it's climax with watching the mighty condors soar over our heads, couldn't wait!
Trip is one of which there are 15 to a dozen here in Arequipa, all leaving in 21 seater tourist busses, all overnighting in Chivay, all dining in tourist restaurants there, all buses having there own problems to get over the 4200m pass....
The road in was nice and scenic, even just for the fact the first 2 hours were the one we missed in our "night" bus adventure coming from Cuzco. Seeing the shy vicuñas at the side of the road is plenty of fun, and seeing some more alpacas and lamas at the higher pass as well. Not much else to report from the road in.
The lunch spot had the usual peruvian tourist buffet, albeit a bit cold. The hostel was basic, but actually quite nicely done up. The tourist restaurant was entertaining, with music and dance, but the food must have been some of the worst we've had in Peru. Bin had the usual (al)fred pasta, and a heap of it so large it could have fed four! Didn't
taste any better though... I decided to stay on the safe side, and had a burger with fries..... and it was just that, a bun with a meat patty on it..... and still it didn't go down well, not doing to good in the morning. Could've been worse, the American family next to us had the tourist menus, and none of them finished their plates! The daddy got pulled onto the dance floor though, dressed up with alpaca clothes from head to toe, and also got his ass wipped! To the delight of the kids of course, but wonder what mum will say when she sees the videos!
Up at.... up well before the crack of dawn, and the food from last night is still repeating on us... great start, at 5 am, breakfast at 5.30, and leaving just after 6am....
No tour is as it is sold to you, so we didn't head straight out to the condor viewing point. Rather, we had a few stops at other viewing points and churches. Not all bad, took the speed out of the tour, and I got to hold a rather large buzzard-eagle. Well trained little bird, didn't take
a bite out of any vital body part!
naturally, at the viewing point (Cruz del Condor), there were several dozens of tourist buses already present. Fortunately, also at least 15 or more condors!!!
Very impressive indeed, massive animals, and not too shy either, soaring right above the viewing point with many tourist underneath them. Watch some of the videos on top of this Blog if you can !! Very impressive indeed!
We decided to abondon (tourist) ship here, and continue by ourselves on a local bus to Cabanaconde. Didn't have a booking, so decided to check the expensive hotel option first! And the Kuntur Wassi hotel was definately the right choice!
Apart from the nice room, the exceptionaly friendly owners definately made it worth the stay! Esteban and Pepina were kind in every way, Esteban even giving us a short explanation on the surrounding area (day 1) and a guided walk to a viewing point (day 2)!
As we'd gotten up at that crack of dawn, we decided to just chill out for the rest of the day, and enjoy the hospitality and the much better food in the hotel. Quite frankly, there are some
other accomodation options in town, but it'd be hard to find any reasonable restaurants I think!
Day 2 starts with a nice breakfast, after which the horses are brought up to the hotel for us! We thought we had a guide, but the young lady, Saida, actually ran after us on foot! Impressive, being at 3300m altitude still. Nice ride, but first some practice at a rather dry soccer field, to get used to the rather enthusiastic pacing horses, a Peruvian exclusive: Horses that do a "walking pace" rather than trot or gallop!
Bin enjoying the moment of course, but me struggling to get on the horse. Not that I don't know how too, but with stirrups that had the length for a 10 year old, it was a bit hard to stay seated on a horse that pretty much wanted to bolt down the hill!!
So at the soccer pitch, we decided to swap horses, meaning that Bin had the shorter stirrups..... and I got the smaller horse !! But what Rosillo lacked in size, it made up with spirit! Think it bolted 3 times on me. The last time, it would not be stopped, running
through the village, taking a quick left and right down the alley, and stopping just in front of a metal gate...... home.... for the horse, but unfortunaely we had a second viewing point to go to, so all that rushing for nothing!
Both viewing points were lovely, the second we also got off and walked around the canyon's edge for a bit, taking the vistas in a bit more. On the way back, of course, the horses decided top speed up a bit again. being properly trained pacing horses, the running was a bit more bearable (for my man-hood at least) than what we usually get with other horses!
Later in the afternoon, as said, Esteban was kind enough to take us for a walk to a mirador at dusk. More vistas, and more condors as well !!! Nice food again in the evening, and a good sleep as well.
We thought we'd be ok with the local bus back next morning, but turns out that per usual, locals pile up in the isle of the bus, and after they get off at a few stops, tourists take their place! Must have been on a very cheap
tour to be on a local bus! Again, with so many people on the bus, the little bus engine had problems getting up a few hills, overheated again probably. But we actually managed to make it back to Arequipa at a decent hour!!
We spent one more day at the white city, domestics, and were on our way out the day after! back to Chili, once more !
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