Culture and Nature in one fell swoop!

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When you meet other backpackers coming in the opposite direction to you there are a few places that they insist that "you have to go to." Now, like all people, nothing makes me more resistant to an idea than someone telling me I must do it, but in the case of the Colca Canyon it is a good thing that I'm able to overcome my natural instincts. The canyon is the second deepest in the world (the Grand Canyon has got nothing on it, sorry America) and is only surpassed by it's neighbour, the Cotahuasi Canyon. You can do organised tours through the canyon, but why do that when you can just as easily do it yourself? There is little of interest in Cabanaconde, although we did climb a 700m peak which was more of an adventure than it should have been. The reason for the extra level of adventure was our trusting of the locals! We were told to ask for directions and the locals would help. The problem being that Peruvian people don't like letting you down, they'd rather lie or distort reality than make you disappointed. Thus, when asking for directions, rather than admitting to not knowing, we were told to "go up this track and stick to the right" by a little old lady of about 100 years of age. we tried to walk the way that seemed more likely (the road) but she harrie us up the hillside, and you know you can't upset old people...it's why I always eat a bacon sandwich at my Gran's even if I'm not hungry, I just can't bear to see the disappointment in her eyes if I say no. Anyway, we should have said no as the way was littered with spikey, angry cacti which shredded our ankles and calves. Not fun. Also, the path just stopped at the top meaning we had to walk along a dried up stream for a bit. Not clever, but it added an element of adventure to what would have been a run of the mill hill walk. It was a good way to prep for the Canyon too.



Canyon walking is essentially hill walking in reverse.The descent starts at 3300m and the path clings to the side of the canyon, winding it's way to the river below. It's dusty, narrow and at times very steep. Unsurprisingly a dog tagged along, although it refused to cross the rope bridge at the bottom. The views were stunning along the canyon in the early morning light but even at 8am it was roasting. No sign of the rainy season we'd been warned about. The river is at 2000m, and since we'd decided to stay overnight in Tapay, a tiny village on the otherside of the canyon, it meant a climb of around 800m straight up the opposite side of the canyon. The altitude and heat made the going tough, but the views and scenery made it worth the slog. Tapay was quiet, no cars are able to reach Tapay, everything makes it's way there by foot or donkey. It's like stepping back in time 100 years or so. But it meant a stunning view of the night sky and a perfect night sleep. Day two involved a descent to the oasis and a bit of a splash in the pools there. The early morning light made the canyon seem even more tranquil than it normally is, everything just seemed softer, as if the volume of the earth had been turned down a notch. We picked up yet another dog on the way down, after having scrambled across a landslide in the path! This dog, however, didn't want to leave us, even to the detriment of his own health. It was probably 35C this day and there is no shade on the ascent. It's 1300m on an almost vertical path. I've never been so exhausted or in need of water, the bloody dog followed us despite the fact that he would probably have died...luckily some American's coming down managed to entice him to safety! Crazy dog. The climb was brutal, probably the most physically challenging thing I have done. But the beauty of the canyon made it worth it...just about...and I didn't get eaten by condors, so that's always a bonus!

Luckily, Arequipa doesn't pose quite the same levels of risk to one's health, it being a beautiful colonial city with culture and nothing more menacing than nuns, or perhaps an earthquake. Arequipa is almost certainly a UNESCO site, but who cares? Really? It's just absolutely stunning, in both daytime and in twighlight when they've done a wonderful job with lighting the buildings, which is the most important thing. In the centre every street is lined with wonderful buildings made of glistening, white, volcanic stone. The architecture is sublime, and although many of the buildings are privatly owned, they are opened to the public which is great. The Santa Catalina Monastary is a highlight. It was occupied by nuns for a couple of hundred years, so I think it technically makes its a convent, but I would have to based my knowledge of nuns on Sister Act and The Blues Brothers so perhpas a more enlightened soul would care to set me straight? Anyway, these nuns shut themselves off from the world, because that's what God wanted or something, and they build their own town with it's own streets and quadrants. It's really quite spectacular. Some nun's still live there, but in a bit where you can't see them...shy people it would seem.



There's another Monastary across the river, Recoleta, which is less touristy, which is a shame because it's really beautiful too. The cloisters are ornate and serene and there is an amazing library with old leather bound books stored upon wonderful wooden shelves. It smells antiquey, which it is, and has the history of the written word documented in the various display cases. Each rom has a different exhibit, amazonian creatures (an exotic ode to taxidermy really), regligious art and the best one, Andian history with a some grim mummies and amazingly preserved fabrics and pottery. There was also a really good museum about the Incas and their sacrifices, it had a National Geographic video which was a neat touch, I thought, and then a frozen Incan mummy to cap it all off. Not bad when you consider there is a guided tour of he exhibits too. A good way to kill a few hours and learn a few things, as Benjamin Franklin said "An investment in knowledge pays the best interest." Smart bloke that Franklin.



Arequipa's culinary heritage is rather formidable and the restaurants, cafes and markets uphold this tradition. The Chicharron pork (fried pork belly) and the market was incredible, I tried Chicha with it. Chicha is a slightly alcoholic beverage (1-3%) made from red corn. It's very odd. It kind of smells like stale wine and the taste is similar, with a acid/fruit aftertaste. It was cheap, but not sure it would have grown on me, even if I had persisted. The Incas loved it apparently, but they never had whiskey or wine. Had they discovered the joys of fermented grapes or the wonders of whisky, I'm not sure we'd be hearing much of this Chicha beverage in the present At the fruit juice stand I tried a completo. This was a goliath of a drink, made with evaporated milk, dark beer, maca, bananas, papaya, lunacua (a fruit I've never heard of) and treacle. According to the woman making it it was supposed to make me "strong, macho and vigorous"...whatever that means...but I just felt very full and a bit sick, I almost couldn't face dinner 5 hours later. It was tasty, just heavy and volumous! Luckily, ZigZag provided us with a fine dining experience...lamb ribs on a hot stone with 4 sauces and Andian meatballs with pepper sauce...heavenly, which is appropriate considering the city we're in with it's abundance of religiosity.



So after getting all religious, sampling fine cuisine and nearly ruining my gastrointestinal system with a "Superdrink" we decided to head further north to the famous and, depending on who you believe, the mystical Nazca Lines.

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Photos

Colca Canyon
Deep...

Colca River
The last water you see for 2-3 hours as you climb out of the canyon!

Arequipa - Cathedral
The whole of the centre is made of this type of stone, it creates a wonder visual effect. The cobbled streets add to it too.

Santa Catalina
One of the many cloisters in the monastery. They seem to be colour codes for an unknown reason...maybe the nuns know...pity we can't ask them!

A street in the Monastery
They had names and everything...you know, just in case a postman managed to slip in unannounced!

Recoleta
Beautiful

Mummies
Creepy...wouldn't want to be locked in here in the dark!

Library of Recoleta
Smells like learning!

Comments

[mlmcadams]

Happy Travels!
Fascinating, thanks for helping me learn about the world! Hugs to you and Ellie, maria PS: Happy Birthday!