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Published: October 6th 2008
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Sand serving in Peru! The sun is shining and we have had another lush couple of weeks. We hope all is well in Blighty, Oz, Germany and other places.
At the moment we are getting high most days in Peru. Hitting high heights and both of us are getting a little breathless and sick (but not enough for things to go tits up).
So, what has life entailed in the last few weeks?
We left Paracas for a very chilled day in Huacachina. A little Oasis village of about 200 people and 25 hotels! Nested inside towering sand dunes. After a slighty scary ride on a dune buggy we got to surf down one of the mama's. A good rush, Andy had to go first cause I am a big scary pants...
Next stop Nazca, a lush town that we both liked. Easy to get off the tourist street and explore the buzzy market street's. One good thing about South American cities and towns is how clean they are. Gang' of street cleaner's and van's come out about 9pm! The sad thing is this approach has not reached the rural areas yet. It makes my blood boil when you´re on a
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!
I got Andy to go first cause I am a big scary pants but it was a good rush!! bus looking at stunning mountains and lakes with the added vista of plastic bags and other rubbish.
Our main purpose for the visit was to see The infamous Nazca lines from above. After much encouragement and squeezing of Andy, we got up in the air. Shitting myself was not the word. The more I fly, the more I fear it. The plane was a four seater and when it turned, your stomach turned too!
Anyway I think it was a unconscious dream to go the Nazca lines because I got every excited about the whole affair. Peru is so old, with a long history of different cultures through the ages, all appearing to have an interest in thanking and worshipping the elements. You can sense something in the air...it feels quite mystical.
It is thought they were created a bloody long time ago (200 to 800 AD) by the Nazca people (and possibly some of it by the Paracas people to). I am not sure who "discovered" (The Pan American highway was built before and slices across some of the images and lines, opps!) the lines in modern day but I think a
Peruvian archaeologist Mejia Xespe
Sandy....
Lush dunes in Huacachina...Satyed in your bag and shoes for weeks! But no sandy egg sandwiches... in 1927. People flying over the lines started to see shapes and figures in the land during the 1920's. It's a massive map over 500 sq km of mostly rock and still today it is a bit of an engima. Lots of very straight lines (about 800) and 70 animal and plant drawings. You cant see them from the ground but once in the air they all become clear. Which I guess gives massive hints these lines and drawings were for someone upstairs. Pictures include (which are bloody hard to see) a monkey, a condor, hummingbird and out fave an owl head type person on a hillside, some saying its an astronaut...who knows, thats the joy about it!!
There are a few theories behind the lines. One is a massive Astronimicial, a worship ground to the gods for rain, good crops etc. I like the Astronimicial theory though, Maria Reiche from Germany a archaeologist believed they were indicating the direction of the rising of important stars and planetary events like sun solstices. The suin set or rise follows some of the lines. Drawing's like the spider and the monkey could show star constellations like Orion etc (this is were
Ahhhhhh...
Sunset over sand...Just like Weston Super Mud... we need Andy Lums for help!)
Who knows? But I like reading me stars and all that, so I am kinda going with that theory and a little bit of thanks to some people up stairs. Andy thinks the Peruvain toursit board made it in the 1940's to build up the the area and get some tourist money in...Funny how it has kept intact, I think this is because it is dry (It only rains like once a year, shall we all move there?), windless climate has kept it all together.
Anyway, god...that was a bit of a history lesson. I got all geeky for a moment. I am sure some of you will be really interested in the lines. So here are some links for further reading darrrhling.
www.crystalinks.com/nazca.html
And talking of things on the spooky side...We were whisked off to Cementerio de Chauchilla. A feast of bones, skulls and mummies from the Nazca culture (more or less AD 1000). Spooky and part of me felt these graves should have been left alone. Hairand nails still intact they made for a spooky and funny afternoon. The mummies were tied up so the spirit
Mount Misty...
Makes us think of Misty Joan!! Mount Misty oversees the wonderfull city of Arequipa in Peru. of the dead person will remain in the grave.
After a painfull overnight trip we arrived in one of Peru´s most beautifull city, Arequipa. We spent 2 days walking around in the sun and eating. Our hotel room was lush, with very camp bedspread. Hotel rooms can be a bit tricky here. A double room means two twin beds and a double bed is called "matremoney". In strong Cathoical countires sometimes you get funny looks, brothers or "mates" is the way forward for a quiet life sometimes!
A 2 day detour to the Caloca Canyon, with unfriendly people on the tour! No reaction from a simple Buenos Dais or Hola. The tour was stunning 3 hour drive winding around and clinging on to the edge of mountain roads. The most stunning part of the tour was Llamas and Alpacas (cute!) and the farming layout. Lots of terraces, looking very green against the red mountains. We arrived in Caloca, which is a shite hole then a buffet lunch (arghhhhh!) and off to hot springs (hmmmm). The next day off to the Canyon, which was stunning and we spotted about 6 condors (result).
We spent four days chilling out
Oh cheeky, cheeky..
Andy being a cheeki boi at Santa Catalina Monastery, Arequipa... in Lake Tittikaka. Two days in Peru and two days on the Bolivian side. Which was a treat! Took a wonderfull boat tour on the lake. First stop The infamous floating islands
The Islas Flotantes was indeed the highlight. The uros tride set up home centurys ago to islolate themselves from aggressors. Now there are about 45 islands, with schools, healthcare and solar power for tele! It was slighty touristy (but hey, if the cap fits) but not has much as we thought. People were very welcoming and warm. The islands have to be replaced every 3 months. The base is made of three meters of reed roots and then another three meters of reeds stacked on top of each other. They are then tied on the reeds in the lake. The reeds start to decompose so the island is slowey replaced. It is strange walking on the islands, a bit like walking on a bouncy castle with reeds on.
Now in La Paz...Laundry, posting cards and letters to blighty! I guess a sorry is in order for lack of postcards. Have some still from Rio but we spent 3 hours in the post office today getting things
Strictly come dancing...
A ladies a dancing in Colca, Peru sorted!!
We have been waiting to go up north to the Amazon basin. For a river and wildlife spotting trip. We are very exicted about seeing Capabaras! We are off today in a jeep on the so called "death road" to a little town called Runnenbacki. We were gonna get the plane but the town only has a grass run way and its raining there, so no planes are landing. So 10 hours on a jeep. How exciting, driving into the Amazon. I feel like I am in Romance in the stone. It is all very extoic and mystical. So stay tuned for a wildlife gallery next entry.
Bolivia comes with more of a culture shock. Different vistas, people and approach to life. The countryside from Lake Tittikaka to La Paz is very green compared to Peru. More little farms, houses, donkeys, Llamas, dogs. With the Andes nestling in the background to your right and Lake Tittikaka to your left it makes for a lush bus ride. It is a little less "developed" than its neighbours (I am sure they get pissed off hearing that all the time). A left goverment (always a good thing) with the president
River deep, mountain high...
Deep in the Colca Canyon, Peru fighting for indeginous rights (about two thirds of the population). Things seem to be leaning in the right direction. But sadly there is alot of heart break in La Paz. Old men and women on the streets, a draw back of travel seeing all the shite in the world. It is hard to give money or food and it really played with your ethics. My opinoion says Bolivia needs an injection of cash to make soicilasim really work.
A nice thing about walking around La Paz is lots of people (both women and men) dressed up in "traditonal" wear. I (Paul) have a problem with taking photos of people, but I must say I am really tempted (thank god for 10x zoom). We saw something yuck in Peru. People taking pictures of a little girl but she was waving her hand to say no along with her mum. But she got ignored, would you go around Bristol or Plymuff taking pictures of cute kids (I am sure the police would have something to say!) without their permission?
God, I just noticed how much I have written. I have been ranting about different things. So if your alseep...WAKE UP!!
Oh and sorry for the spelling mistakes...No bloody spell check!
Much love and thinking of you all
Paulo y Andy xx
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Rosie
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Boys, you lucky lucky buggers!!! I wanna be there. I very much enjoyed the history lesson Paul, the subject is right up my street. What can I say, its all fabulous and you both look so well in the photies. All quiet here in Plymuff, though i did take your advice the other day and went up mutley to the heart foundation shopand got myself a lovely woolly!!! Need it here. Anyway must go now, love to you both and keep up the blogging!!! Rosie xxxxx