The South American Shuffle - 3 countries in 8 days Part Two

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Day Five Overnight bus to Arequipa
Another big city. Thankfully, the first one I have actually liked in South America to date. Like Cuenca it has gorgeous architecture sewn up. Unlike Cuenca the buildings actually feels South American rather than European, being largely composed of pink volcanic rock and featuring Inca stylings.

On my first evening I met a new friend who charged himself with showing me around for the duration of my stay. It was nice to spend an evening and the next morning practicising my Spanish and visiting places where there wasn’t a gringo in sight including a Peruvian club and the local produce markets.

He was very protective of me and, if it’s possible, walked in front of AND behind me at the same time to be sure he had all of my safety angles covered. He even stopped me buying a pair of sunglasses I had my eye on because they didn’t have the right UV rating!

Unfortunately, shortly after the market visit I was taken down by a nasty fever which forced me to spend another night doing nothing much and feeling very sorry for myself.

A night of sweating seemed to clear it up enough for travelling and I was ready to go the next day.

Day Seven Bus to Puno
A border(ish) town on the banks of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest lake (3.8 km above sea level) which is 190 km long, 80 km wide and 284 (!) metres at its deepest. Still sick. I had the option of leaving the next day at 7am but decided to give myself a break and take a tour of the famous Floating Islands. It still meant a 7am start but thankfully there was no bus involved. They were amazing and worthy of a separate blog which I’ll put up soon.

Day Eight: Another bus… Border time again
This time the destination was the other side of the lake in Copacabana, Bolivia (not the place where music and passion is always the fashion - that’s a club in New York, or so I’m lead to believe). The border was fine. Copacabana was a tonic. It felt like Byron Bay in the off season. And for the first time I wasn’t overwhelmed by the toots and toxic fumes of cars or taxis as the street I was staying, eating and shopping on went nowhere beyond the expansive lake.

In its place were the dulcet tunes of Bob Marley, more dreads per capita than most Northern New South Wales towns combined and more llama emblazoned clothing items than should be legal in any one place.

The real crowd pleaser, though, was the the lakeside location. And the prices. A private room with a lakeside view to forever, cable TV and private bathroom for $8. A four course meal including warm bread, hearty tomato soup, chicken in white wine sauce and lemon pie for $3. I think I could get to like this place.


Day Nine: A short break in La Paz

After a morning kayak ride to invigorate the senses on Lake Titicaca, I took a comparatively short 4-hour bus trip and the first time I (almost) became the victim of crime in South America. I’ve written separately about this in another blog. For now, I’m just glad for a bed, the best shower I’ve experienced in this trip and a private room with a doona!!!

As it’s the weekend, I’m going to wait here until I can go to the doctor and dentist on Monday to make sure is all well before I head out to the jungle for 2 months. I’m still torn between the ‘authentic’ but very isolated park with lots of cats but only a few monkeys and the other park which is closer to civilisation, has lots of monkeys but only a few cats.

Either way I’m sure I’ll be happy.

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Photos

Crossing the lake
To make the final step into Bolivia we were herded out of our bus which was taken by barge across the lake

Bolivian navy
Landlocked Bolivia still hangs on to the days of ocean frontage by maintaining their own navy