Vive Le Argentina

---

---

After our adventure in Brazil, we hit a parrilla to fill our stomachs and headed to bed fairly early, a consequence of not sleeping much on the coche cama, and the fact that Puerto Iguazu isn´t a place to spend resources on nightlife. The next morning, we awoke, and found the bus to Parque Nacional Iguazu . Considered by many the premier waterfalls in the world, they straddle the Brazil / Argentina border on the Rio Iguazu. While the Brazil side affords a more complete panorama, the Argentina side gives you greater access to and closer views of the falls. Unlike, say, Niagara Falls, the site constitutes a campus of falls, from the large mistfilled Garganta del Diablo to the series of water streams visible from Isla Grande San Martin. We spent the day wandering the park, hiking around to see all the waterfalls and soaking in the views. While it was a long way to come, even Justin had to admit it was well worth it.

We got back into town to catch the end of France´s semi-final, noting how different their circumstances were from when they were on life support when we were in Paris. Some pizza and pastries followed, before we collapsed from exhaustion. Luckily for Chris, Puerto Iguazu lies near not only Brazil, but also Paraguay, another country with difficult visa requirements. The one place you´re allowed to take a day trip into the country without paperwork is Ciudad del Este, the third of the cluster of border towns. After much whining from Justin, she allowed herself to be dragged to check out Paraguay. Of the trio, Ciudad del Este most readily fulfills the stereotype of a border town, with plenty of hassle and hawkers. We wandered the streets for a couple of hours, grabbing some food, before trying to figure out how to get the hell out of there. Thankfully, the bus eventually showed up, and we made it back to Argentina. As soon as we arrived, we grabbed the next shuttle to Posadas.

About a five hour drive on the way back to Buenos Aires, Posadas also sits on the border of Paraguay, although you can´t cross legally without a visa there. However, we were able to admire the lights of Encarnacion across the river as we ate dinner. Because we arrived quite late, we weren´t able to wander much, although it seems a pleasant enough town.

One of Posada´s main draws is its proximity to a number of Jesuit mission ruins. In the late 1600´s, the Jesuits built a number of towns throughout the area, which they used to both convert the natives and to instill the rudiments of ¨civilization¨. While their heydey was relatively brief, their influence on the culture of South America continues to be felt. At least at the missions themselves, the history was viewed in a strongly positive light. We started at San Ignacio Mini, the most popular and easiest to get to. After a short tour with a guide who spoke very little English, we found ourselves with some extra time. Since the ruins were a bit sparse, we decided to take a public bus and try to find the Santa Ana ruins, down the road a bit back toward Posadas. After a short ride, we walked along a few secluded roads for about a half an hour and found the ruins, which we had all to ourselves. While also mostly a shell of their former glory, the quiet setting and a great ancient cemetary made the site worth the wandering.

After catching a lift back to Posadas, we splurged on another Executivo overnight service back to Buenos Aires. While all the particulars of the trip were the same, the vibe was much less comfortable. Basically, it was like a fairly bad flight, with annoying fellow customers and lackluster service. We arrived in Buenos Aires early in the morning, and got a room at the Hotel Carly. We had heard mixed things (many of the rooms are dingy, with no windows), but were able to score a nice double with a balcony overlooking Plaza Dorrego. After settling in, we bought a grab bag of empanadas at Solo Empanadas , including Roquefort and Dulce de Leche. We took the food down the street to Parque Lezama, thought to be the spot of the founding of the city, and people watched while we munched. We then wandered down to La Boca, the legendary ghetto from which many of the country´s soccer heroes spring. Upon our return, an impending thunderstorm forced us into a bar to watch the World Cup third place match. At the neighboring table were Lisa and Dave, two New Yorkers who are travelling up to Ecuador to spend the year working. Since we shared a common love for fine meats and cheeses, we headed for El Desnivel. After another Argentinian feast, we grabbed some drinks at Gibralter.

Rising slowly this morning, we eventually made it outside to experience the Sunday antiques fair in Plaza Dorrego. We were able to overlook it from our balcony, but found it more rewarding to wander through the stalls, sampling the food and street performers, who offered everything from tango dancing to juggling. After a bit of shopping, we met up with Dave and Lisa to view the World Cup final at a French cafe on Defensa Street. Luckily getting the last table, we were able to see the match with a rowdy and partisan French crowd, much more lively than the crowd in France. For a while, things looked good, but Zidane´s random headbutting in the OT took a bit of the volume out of the bar. When the shootout went the other way the life completely drained from the place.

Tonight, we head for a final parrilla meal, before our flight to Santiago in the morning.

---