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As seen from my shower....
I always hear these huge iguanas rustling around in the treetops and in the thatch of my roof, and I finally was able to snap a picture. I'd guess he was at least 6 ft long! I have returned from my visit to the US - I spent 2 wks in LA visiting with family, watching American Idol and getting caught up on American Pop Culture. I spent my birthday with my sister; we took a long walk along the beach; it's the same beach as the one by my Ecuador home, but it's a very different world a few thousand miles north!
In Atlanta I was very fortunate that two different friends were able to loan me vehicles during my first two weeks there. To avoid paying another month's rental on my storage space, I had 3 days to clear my junk out. I was especially grateful for the use of Kami's Chevy Suburban to facilitate this task (just 4 loads to empty it all). Driving my big pick-up truck down here helped prepare me for maneuvering such a huge vehicle! Michelle was great about letting me store lots of boxes up in her attic. We decided that the German books definitely weigh more than the children's books!
Gilbert was very gracious about my staying at his place while I went thru all my stuff, deciding what to bring, what to store, what
Clothes Line - first in a series
I love to photograph clothes lines. What's hanging on the line tells you about the family and the location of the line tells you about how they live. to give away, what to sell and what to pitch. He and I went to H&R Block to sort out our respective taxes. He was acquainted with the woman who helped us and she teasingly asked him, "Is that your girlfriend?" When he responded, "No it's my ex-wife" all heads turned to take a look. No one can believe how well we get along. Perhaps it's because our divorce was such a long time coming.
I took a quick trip to Baltimore, taking advantage of my visit to nab some music from my brother's collection to flesh out my Itunes library. Unfortunately, while there I got very sick and had to be treated at one of those Minute Clinics (cost an arm and a leg!) I brought back a nasty cough when I returned to Ecuador and it lasted almosts 4 wks!
During my last week in Atlanta I was fretting over whether my Ecuadorian VISA would all work out as planned. Alas, it didn't. Even though it had been approved in Ecuador weeks before and the Ministry of the Exterior had forwarded all the necessary documents, the honorary consul in Atlanta claimed that she didn't have the
Bamboo Church
In the tiny town of Puerto Rico, five minutes walk from where I live, you can visit this beautiful bamboo church. power to stamp that kind of visa and the general Consul in Washington DC insisted that I would have to apply for another type of visa and then change it again upon returning to Ecuador. Meanwhile, emails were flying back and forth between me and my Quito lawyer who informed me that both consuls I had spoken to in the US were misinformed! He was furious at his government's lack of organization and miscommunication and he has taken everything in hand to push the process through without my having to leave the country again.
I had a very strange travel day when it was time to return to Ecuador. Despite the fact that Continental Airlines' website told me I could take along 3 peices of overbaggage at $100 apiece, when I arrived at the check-in counter the guy read me a list of Latin American cities that would only accept 2 extra bags, so I had to leave one trunk behind. Fortunately, Michelle waited in her van at curbside to make sure everything went ok, and she was able to take back the over-over-baggage and store it in her attic. They were incredibly strict about the weight of each
Orchid Gardens at Mindo
En route down from the mountains to the coast you pass thru the tropical microclimate zones, like Mindo. Stunning. bag, and even though I had weighed them on my scale at home, I still had to dislodge 2 or 3 lbs from each of the other bags. In so doing, I dropped a ceramic mug that said "Jewish Penicillin" and it broke into bits on the airport floor.
Once I made it thru check-in I had lots of extra time to hang around in the atrium lounge. I started chatting with a woman who still had on her nametag from a writing workshop. We ended up spending about two hours deep in conversation. It's amazing how philosophical discussions unfold with people you barely know!
I had just gotten seated on the Atlanta to Houston leg of an overbooked flight (Spring Break) when they called my name and asked if I wanted to be switched to a direct flight, Atlanta to Quito. Sure!! I'd get in 2 hrs earlier and not have to change planes. So, there I was, swimming upstream in the aisle while others were still boarding. The people on standby cheered me for giving up my seat (hey, it would benefit me!) but as I began to exit the plane, they shuffled me back on
Waterfalls at Peguche
After a picnic in the forest below the falls, we cooled off in the spray of these powerful waterfalls. board - they couldn't get my luggage off in time and it couldn't travel without me! SO, since my seat had already been given away, I got to take the last seat in 1st class (too bad it was just a short flight to Houston) but there was no room for my overhead bag. The flight attendant had to store it way in the back, so again I had to swim upstream as everyone was disembarking to get my bag. Fortunately, I had enough time between flights; time enough, in fact to take a squeeze of the tester of face cleanser at the duty free Clinique counter and scurry across to the ladies room to wash up.
While waiting to board, I teased an older Ecuadorian couple that the huge stuffed teddy bear they had with them would need a ticket and a seat of its own. The wife looked panicky, thinking that it would really be so!
Upon arriving in Quito, I hit another impasse trying to pass through immigration. Since I had already had a 3 month tourist visa, renewed for a 2nd 3 months they wouldn't let me into the country again unless I stayed
Beachcombing
It's amazing how shoals of similar size or shape shells and pebbles wash ashore in clusters. out for 180 days. I assured them that my investor's visa had been approved and started to pull out all the pertinent documents. Any number of supervisors where called over to assess my situation and they decided to give me the 10 days that were remaining from my 2 tourist visas to sort it all out. My lawyer got right on it, dove in to right the wrong. As of this writing I still don't have the VISA in hand, but he continues to assure me that all will work out. More than 10 days have passed, but I trust that the matter is being handled in high places!
Among my many friends who have promised to take a trip to Ecuador, my first visitor was the person I least expected to actually come. Jeanine (Nene) and I met 30 yrs ago at Illinois State University. After college, our lives diverged drastically, but we've kept in touch. I love to visit Nene and her husband on their huge corn and soybean farm. They have 10 children, most of whom were born at home and all of whom are homeschooled by Nene. So you see, our chosen life's paths are
Safety First!
We suited up in life vests for the 20 minute trawl over to Salango Island in Beatriz's father's little fishing boat. truly diametrically opposed. I totally admire Nene for the courage it took for her to take the leap and make this trip. She had never been out of the US (had to get a rush passport) and had never spent the night away from her kids (except when she was doing a birth -- she's a lay midwife) She was totally up for every new experience I threw her way.
Her first morning in Quito, we awakened to stunning views of the snow capped craggy peaks of Ilinizas, peeking between the two apt bldgs across the road from Vero's apartment, where we were staying. As Nene marvelled, "That's the first mountain I've ever seen in my life!" I drew in my breath and thought, "Wow. Let the adventures begin!!"
We spent that first day sightseeing in Quito. We met up with a friend of a friend of my sister's. As the result of a psychic reading, Deborah had decided to spend her birthday in Quito. While walking around the old town, we popped into a newly renovated hotel for a cup of tea. To our delight, we were treated to a behind the scenes tour of the presidential
cooking out on the beach
Roasting fresh lobster and sweet plantains on the beach at Salango Island suites. Our guide (an undercover secret service guard posing as a doorman) had to get security clearance for us to pass into the private suites. He told us that the historical hotel was 70% renovation & 30% innovation (for example, the heated marble bathroom floors were one of the modernizations). Billed as a "Boutique Hotel" - you can buy replicas of any of the art or furniture.
We had parked the truck in a lot by the Basilica and as we went to pay our 50 cents an hour the woman in charge was cooking dinner for her kids. They lived in rickety wood shack right on the edge of the parking lot. This was Nene's first real glimpse of the poverty here, and she was moved to give the woman some extra money for her family. We had dinner in the tourist district with Vero, who made arrangements to take Deborah dancing on her birthday evening!
Nene and I headed north for a bit more mountain viewing, but alas it was overcast the next day. We had a picnic with Ceci and Keiru beside the waterfall at Peguche. We were among the first guests to stay at
Creating Shade
We felt like Robinson Crusoe as we built a makeshift shelter on the beach at Salango Island. It really didn't provide much shade, but it looks good, doesn't it? the lovely 8 room hostel Ceci has built. She is the homestay family for a Canadian volunteer. Diana had arrived less than a week before and spoke very little Spanish. She was thrilled to be able to speak English with us, and I teased that she needed to clear her head of English to make room for the Spanish immersion she was living!
Dropping down from the Andes to the coast, we passed subtropical climate zones, mini eco-systems. We stopped to ogle the hummingbirds at Sacha Tamia Lodge and visited the butterflies and orchids at Mindo. We finally arrived at
Playa Escondida, where I took another look at the lots which are still available on the cliffs overlooking this savage bit of coastline. Nene and I spent most all of our time beachcombing, relaxing in the natural jacuzzi pools (as the tide comes in) which then become tranquil warm pools (once the tide has gone out). At low tide we walked beyond the point to discover caves and passageways. Hot and sweaty from our beach stroll, we happened upon an opening in the rock which regaled us with windtunnel breezes. Ah, just what we needed at that moment!
En route to Palm Sunday Mass
When we asked where mass would be held, these young men from the church youth group hitched a ride in the back of my truck and showed us the way. We drove the cook, Vitalia, home to her village (Estero de Platano - Plantain Estuary). We peeked into the tiny, simple village church. This glimpse was to become a pattern as we stopped at many churches in many places during the following week. Moving on down the coast Nene attended Sunday mass in Pedernales at a gorgeous church with lovely mosaic murals and fabulous wrought iron work. (Meanwhile, I caught up on email at the nearby internet cafe). We paused along the coast for a brief glimpse at Punta Prieta, We stopped for lunch in Canoa, which was full of tourists. During the week before Easter (Semana Santa) local Ecuadorians flock to the coast.
We stopped to visit a new artist friend, Moya, at the lovely home that she designed and built. Like everyone who meets Jeanine, Moya was amazed to learn about her background -- 10 kids is so uncommon in the US (or anywhere!) and it's interesting to hear about midwifery, farming, homeschooling, etc.
Arriving in San Vicente we had to wait well over an hour at the Gabarra ferry crossing. So, we did some more beachcoming and watched the sunset. We had dinner with Nicola,
Giant Squid
Shaking hands with the tentacles, we all marvelled at this huge, inky beast. hearing about her many many projects, and more in the works. We took a morning drive around Bahia (it was raining, not too nice for a walk) and to the school where Ferdinand the tortoise lives. We discovered a new cute place for breakfst. I am a creature of habit and do like to return to places I've enjoyed, but with each return visit I try to broaden my horizons and get off the beaten path.
We worked our way down to Alandaluz via Manta where we stopped for a bit of pampering at the Spa. Nene's had her first ever pedicure! We did some grocery shopping at the shopping mall ("civilization"?) and made it "home" in time for an amazing sunset, the orange light shifting and flowing on the wet sand as the tide pulled out...an occasional powerful wave crashing high over the rocks. (I MUST get out and spend time in nature each morning and/or evening!) Nene helped me with unpacking and accomodating my "stuff" - mostly books but a few kitchen things (alas, most of it stayed in Atlanta) hoever I am glad to have my good cookware here and we enjoyed preparing some meals at
Enormous Manta Ray
Look closely, he blends in with the wet sand! Supposedly they're very good eating, so this guy was pretty popular at the fish market! home. A most pleasant surprise upon returning home, the tree outside my shower is now full of Asian starfruit - I had no idea what kind of tree it was. Takes me back to my Malaysia days. Much of the fruit doesn't fall, just rots on the tree with attracts hundreds of butterflies. What a show!! Another tree burst into bloom outside my kitchen. As I wash dishes, I see a pink trumpet flower tree (floripondio) heavy with blossoms.
We took a few excursions out from Alandaluz, but also had lots of low key hanging out and reading - me trying to get rid of the last of this lingering cold. Nene enjoyed walking alone on the beach, amazed by how few people she saw. Her only previous beach expereince has been Florida! It was fun to distribute the small gifts I brought back to all the kitchen and reception staff at Alandaluz. We went "uptown" to Puerto Lopez a few times, once to get our laundry done. It was just out of the dryer when we were ready to go, so we went into Don Carlos' living room to help fold it. On two different mornings we visited
Fresh Meat
When Jeanine asked this vendor if she could photograph his stall, he first artfully positioned the cow and pig head, then leapt into the picture himself the Puerto Lopez market and watched the fishing boats come in. One afternoon we braved the canopy zip line at Cantalapiedra, another morning we smeared ourselves with mud at the Agua blanca lagoon.
One day we went to the little beach on Salango island with Beatriz and family. We rode out with her dad in his little fishing boat, and set up camp on the very isolated beach. My snorkeling was cut short when I got stung by jellyfish (agua mala, they call it...bad water) I was told to hold my forearm over the fire, then pour gasoline over it (in that order, of course!) Within 15 min or so it had completely stopped stinging. Papa and cousin did some free diving to spear some fish and catch a few lobster. All was cooked over the fire and eaten with sweet roasted plantains. I don't know if any food ever tasted so good!
En route down to Guayaquil, we stopped at several churches along the way; after all, it was Palm Sunday. Perched high on a cliff in Olon, tucked into a hollow in the rocks we marvelled over a fascinating sanctuary. A group of boys who were sweeping the floor there told us that this Sunday's mass would be held down in Manglaralto, 15 minutes south. Since we were headed down there, I asked if anyone wanted a lift. Will I never learn? Over 20 young men appeared from nowhere and piled in the truckbed!
Once in Guayaquil, we enjoyed a day of sightseeing with Rosa and Virgina. Nene loved the iguana park; the churches and cathedrals were all full on Palm Sunday. We attended parts of a lot of masses. We stopped at a Home Depot style hardware store to buy new light fixture for my cabana. Rosa & Virginia invited us to dinner at a very low-key local dive shishkebab place. We were actually sitting in these people's living room while we enjoyed yummy chicken kebabs.
These were all amazing experiences for me --I imagine the experience is amplified times 10 for Nene!
The next morning, I helped Nene check in at the airport (but get this, at security they almost took away the two hammocks she had in her carry-on, but in the end decided to just cut the strings so they couldn't be used for weapons...give me a break!!) Before heading back up to my house, I bought a mattress. Two delivery guys who were there just to drop something off helped me to secure the mattress. I rummaged thru my grocery shopping bags and gave them some snacks in thanks. I drove carefully home, watching it flap and wag each time I hit a speed bump. It wasn't nearly as nerve-wracking as when I brought back my fridge and stove!!
In the week after Nene left, I prepared and posted notices offering French and English classes in May-June-July. Several of the restaurant owners in Puerto Lopez have offered me space to teach in town and everyone I've spoken to had been very encouraging and collaborative!
Tonight at midnight I will pick up Pam in Guayaquil and start the next adventure. A 2nd group of volunteers from Engineers Without Borders is arriving later this week in Quito. They will build and install the water system that was conceptualized and designed by the engineers who came last November. This will be Pam's 9th visit to Ecuador, and she's never seen the coast, only the mountains. Therefore, I'm so glad she decided to fly into Guayaquil and spend a few days with me here on the coast before we head up to Quito to meet the arriving volunteers.
I am using the free wireless access in a Guayaquil shopping mall food court to write this entry. It is so LOUD and chaotic here...I have earplugs in and I'm struggling to concentrate! So I'll just call it quits and end here! Hope I haven't bored you to tears...at least the photos help a bit!!
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Greg (goyo)
non-member comment
La isla de Salango!
ahhh, you got to visit with Beatriz and go to Salango island, so nice! I know Rebekka got to go to la isla, pero yo nunca fui. How's it going Jill?? Things are pretty suburban and average around here in Palo Alto. Dáles mis saludos a Beatriz y los habitantes de Alandaluz :) see ya! greg