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Published: September 25th 2009
Cuenca's a great town to get lost in. That's just what we did the other day when we played "let's hop on a bus and see where it goes," aka "bus roulette." Buses cost 25-cents and go almost everywhere, so it's a great way to see places you'd never see otherwise. On this junket, we passed through the industrial section, around town, and up into the mountains. Since we had no idea where we were or how to get back on our own, we rode the bus to the end of the line, up, up, up the hills on the north side of the city, on roads where "no bus had dared to go before"—or at least shouldn't dare to go—up narrow streets and to-the-sky heights.
The bus started out as "standing room only" in town, but by the time our driver finally pulled off to the side of an eucalyptus-lined road at the top of the mountain for his break in an area called Trigales, we were the only ones left. He looked at us and, with broken English and a welcomed east coast accent, asked us where we wanted to go. "Home," we said, telling him where that
was. "You need number 8 bus," he said. "Go right at the corner and go two blocks. Hurry!" We ran down a respectable neighborhood street and ended up at a little tienda (store). About a minute later, #8 came, right on schedule, and eventually took us back to our end of town and home again. Buses are terrific here. A little aventura.
Yesterday, Jack took a bus from outside our 17-floor building to the end of the bus line halfway up a mountain in the Cajas, a mountain range and National Park to the west. A newly-poured concrete ribbon threaded its way through the narrowing green valley with family farms on either side of the Tomebamba River. It was a genuinely beautiful setting, ending at a bus turnaround. Jack had a Coke for breakfast with his driver and a few others on break. His driver had lived in Brooklyn for 22-years as an auto mechanic, yet spoke virtually no English. He was deported back to Ecuador a year ago, he said, when a computer search for a renewal of his visa showed that he had failed to pay a ticket.
Back to the first bus... We hopped aboard
just outside of the Museum del Banco Central, featuring pre-Columbian pottery and an exhibit that illustrates the history of the people of Ecuador. We were the only turistas in the whole museum at that time, which was neat, but a little eerie—especially when wandering through the dimly-lit section with the shrunken heads. The entrance fee also includes access to the Pumapungo ruins behind the museum, which was once a grand palace belonging to an Inca ruler.
Next to the museum is the auditorium where many musical and theatrical events are held—mostly free!
Cuenca is a great "looking city" with beautiful people—and especially adorable children—buildings, skies, and trees and rivers. It seems as if everywhere you turn, there's something interesting to see. The people are warm and friendly, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't be careful... aware... and smart.
Last Friday night, five armed men reportedly awaited a North American family when they came home from an evening in town. The robbers held them at gunpoint and loaded the family's car with everything they could, including televisions, computers, and jewelry. They beat the family, tied them up, and threatened to shoot their young grandson if they didn't give
them the contents of their safe. This was reported as being the worst such incident of its kind anyone could remember in Cuenca, and everyone was shocked.
We've never felt the slightest threat the whole time we've been in Ecuador, but it's a reminder that bad things can happen anywhere—even in a beautiful city like Cuenca.
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Gloria Gritz
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Your springtime shots were most welcome on this chilly, rainy Minnesota day. The only thing missing: a photo or two of you two! I'm missing you ...