Semana Santa (Holy Week)

Friday 10.04.09 (continued)
One thing I forgot to mention yesterday is that I came across a line of people along the pavement near the Echovia stop who were busy repairing clothes with old Singer Sewing Machines. I thought they would not be able to repair my shirt torn when I came off the bicycle. It´s pure silk and the way it tore made it difficult. However I gave it to one of them and she made a good job of it; she also repaired my shorts (all for$1).
I made my way with the crowds towards Independence Square. Here in Ecuador they take Holy Week very seriously and the Good Friday Procession through the city is one of its highlights. As I had plenty of time before the Procession I tried to get a bite to eat. All restaurants and cafes were full; I joined a queue for half and hour and eventually got a bowl of soup and a juice - shared a table with an Equadorion family who had just come for the procession. ´Made my way through the now very crowded Independence Square towards the Cathedral steps looking for a good vantage point. I gradually got p the steps on to the platform in front of it overlooking the street where the Procession was going to pass. On the street below the people were already lined 2 to 4 deep awaiting the Procession. Many families had come from far and wide and had made a day´s outing of it; there was a balance between a spiritual and carnival atmosphere among the crowd. As I looked down on the street I could see some families having a picnic as they sat on the pavement waiting. I chatted to a French chap whose family was just in front of me; they were living in Brazil and were in Quito on holidays. There were numerous large speakers placed at street corners playing hymns and giving a commentary on the passion of Christ. After about 45 minutes of waiting we could see the beginning of the Procession moving slowly forwards, preceeded by a large police escort ensuring the crowds left a clear path for the Procession. This was followed by a brass band and many peple dressed from head to toe in purple - purple gowns and long coned hats with masks on their heads. Among these there was a person representing Christ carrying a large heavy cross; some were helping him, while others dressed as Roman soldiers flanked on either side. Behind them there were many people holding lighted candles, pictures of Christ and crucifixes. This pattern was repeated over and over again, with various different sizes and crosses being carried. after a while we saw the first of the portable shrines - beautifully decorated. There followed three further shrines, at various intervals, each one bigger and more ornate than the previous. The Procession continued passing by for nearly tow hours. At a conservative estimate there was at least 10,000 involved in the Procession alone, with about ten times that lining the route. With about half an hour to go before the end of the Procession it started to rain; then from out of nowhere there suddenly appeared peddlers selling umbrellas and rain macs. As the rain got heavier I made my way for some shelter in a sweet shop a few streets away rom Independence Square. The heavy rain was now a thunder storm with all the streets turning into small rivers; then came the hailstones! All the pavements were now empty with everyone huddled into every nook and cranny for shelter; those who attempted to cross a street invariably got wet feet. As it eased a little I made a dash towards the Echovia. I got on but it was already crowded with many thinking the same. All day I was very conscious, with so many people around, of pickpockets, so carried my day bag in front of me, all the time keeping an eye on my cameras and pockets.
When I got back in the neighbourhood of the hotel I popped into a cafe and had a bite to eat before having an early night.

Saturday 11.04.09
Today was very much a domestic and shopping day. ´Spent much time at the Artisan Market and also browsing the shops. I eventually purchased two nice oil paintings - one abstract and one of Quito, by a local artist. I found out details about a big bull fight at the stadium tomorrow, to which I plan to go.

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