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Waiting for drinks at the bar
Before Fran started getting upset!The flight from Cusco to Lima was uneventful and it was lovely to see Mario's warm smile as I arrived over an hour later than expected. I had tried to email in time to save him the boring wait but unfortunately it didn't arrive in time. The late hour meant that we copped all the peak hour traffic, but I had a lovely welcome from Maritza and Fiorella once I walked through the door. Fran was there with a new volunteer from New Zealand (who's name escapes me at the moment) and after dinner we all went to out for a beer. Fran had told me it was an English pub? but it was actually and English Country Club and very posh indeed. The bar was so small that we were told to wait in the lobby (I think there was about 20 in there!) until there was space for us, but we couldn't get a drink in the lobby and were told we couldn't go to the restaurant for one either. After 15 mins we were all a bit ticked off and went to see if anyone had cleared out for us. The waitress advised that there was 'no room
at the inn' even though we could see a lounge that would have easily accommodated us. Fran decided that she was going to take them on and in the end, we established that although we couldn't stand at the bar, we could go to the restaurant after all and get a beer without having to buy a meal. Now, if the bar wouldn't take us because we were not decked out in our finery, can't imagine why they would want us in the restaurant which was even more posh. However, turns out is was a very good result as not only did we get out beers, but also nuts to nibble and a lovely band playing. The walk home was very pleasant and I got to have Maritza's room with my own ensuite! This was very exciting because the shower was the hottest and best pressure I had had for 4 weeks, plus I knew that the Galapagos only had cold showers, so I made the most of it! Up early for my flight to Quito and the traffic was excellent compared to the night before.
I was a bit nervous about Quito as I knew it was a
very large city (2.3million actually) but my lift (Marco) was there with his sign held high for the mini van, (anxiously looking for me) as I was practically the last to get through customs. The drive was an hour to Maria's home and as Marco spoke very good English we chatted for most of the time. I know, you are all thinking how strange that I could chatter so long to a perfect stranger. It was difficult, (believe it or not) because my throat is still not right and I am getting more convinced that it will be a permanent souvenior from this trip which might make my virtual classrooms a little more interesting Helen! Anyway, arrived around 1.00pm and this poor young girl (about 16 years old) got the awesome job of helping me with my luggage. Poor thing, both of us were red faced after climbing 5 flights of stairs but she definitely got the worst part with my 23 kg bag! Just in case your wondering why I was red faced, I still was lugging my 16 kg bag, plus 11 kg backpack and 10 kg handbag (approx. weights only but I have to show that I
was still suffering LOL). Lunch was ready and while waiting for it to be placed before me, I got to take in the view through the window and then I saw it!.....My very first hummingbird!!!! I was so surprised and excited and they are the most amazing little birds to watch. I haven't got a photo of one flying as yet but when I return to Maria's from the Galapagos that will be my first task. It is hard to imagine how fast those little wings flap, but to see it in action is mind blowing. Apparently they are all over the place and in Florida as well, but for this Aussie it was just the most amazing sight and wonderful surprise. After finishing lunch (under the eagle eye of Maria, which is apparently the ritual for every meal I was to learn) I was put into a lovely room with an ensuite (spoilt again!) and just relaxed until dinner. Actually couldn't believe how tired I was but assume it was due to early starts and stress associated with going to new locations.
I had been given some information about the Hop on-Hop off bus from Gabby the co-ordinator
Basillica
Where I spent far too much time via a phone call, so the next morning I started walking to find the main street (not getting lost for all of you who thought that was the next sentence) and after 20 minutes reached the correct bus stop. I was told I had half an hour to kill and as the ATM hadn't given me money near the hostel, thought I would sort it out at the big banks as I had just spent my last $12 on the bus ticket. UMMMMMMM.....apparently this was only the beginning of my money saga. I tried 4 ATMS and had no luck; it was Sunday so no banks were open; and I had only bought one card with me so couldn't even try any other possible options. I rang the debit card people ($30 phone bill later) to see if they had put a stop on it or my money hadn't gone through, but was told all was good and they had no idea why I couldn't get money. That wasn't helping me at all!!! So all I had was my bottle of water, no food for the day and a ticket that would only last today as well. Figured I would
Killing time
The plaza I walked to before it started to rain. just enjoy my dinner when I got home, I jumped on and readied myself to enjoy the trip.
It was very warm, but I managed to find a seat in the covered spot up on the top of the bus. Got off at an art centre which was very disappointing (very weird spooky display in one room and soccer videos in the other and that was it!), so I decided to walk to the cathedral (which I could see) rather than wait for the next pick up bus. No, I didn't get lost all you skeptics! I wandered around the church but couldn't climb the tower for $1 (no money remember) and then checked my time to catch the next bus.....only I was waiting at the wrong bus stop 😞
When I finally realised that there might be another stop (after asking one of the ladies on the stalls and yes my Spanish (albeit hand signals) are improving enough for me to communicate), I turned to see that it was just pulling in but also pulled out as I was waving my arms and trying to run down the hill without falling....again...but as I wasn't wearing my lace
Quito Old Town
Historical and very narrow streets for our double decker bus. up boots it was somewhat less dangerous. What to do now, as the bus wouldn't be back for another hour, I had no money, and it looked like it was going to rain. Pondered walking to the next stop but it looked a little far on my map so instead I decided to go follow the sign to the next Plaza. No, I didn't get lost!
Not much going on there but some interesting photos and a chance to sit....until it started to rain. Started for cover and once it stopped walked back to the church and wandered around the other side. More rain but this time I needed some shelter. Checked the clock and thank goodness it was almost time for the bus. Yeh, but I forgot I'm in South American and time has no meaning. So the bus didn't turn up until 30 minutes after it was meant too and I'd been asked a couple of times if I needed a taxi - by men driving ordinary cars! I was standing at a bus stop for goodness sake!!! Once on the bus again, I was looking forward to the next 3 stops when I noticed that although
I was at stop number 6, we were now heading to stop number 10-the last one. Tried to find out what happened to 7, 8 & 9 but was told I could stay on the bus for the entire trip which would allow me to see the rest. Well I certainly wasn't going to miss the other stops, and as this was the last bus for the day realised that I wouldn't be getting back until 6.45pm. It was definitely worth staying on as I got to see the Old City, awesome lookouts and other bits and pieces. Arriving back at the last stop, it was quite dark and I was a bit nervous as I knew that you shouldn't walk alone at night in Quito, however, I had no money for a taxi. I decided that I would stick to the main roads, walk briskly and stick to any touristy looking people. This approach had a slight set back when, before I had even got out of the touristy area, some young bloke got right in my personal space jabbering away in Spanish and circling me. I was in no mood to be intimidated, so I gave him my
best 'mother' glare and walked straight past him trying to maintain the anger so I wouldn't freak out. I marched along aiming for a couple heading in my direction and the rest of the walk went ok. Maria advise that the guy was probably trying to get money to be 'donated' from me which didn't really make me feel all that great, but as this was the first time I had felt threatened was glad it didn't turn out to be more scary.
Linda (another volunteer) had arrived at the hostel while I had been out and we had arranged to go to Otavalo the next day to spend money at the markets, providing of course I could get money. I tried to use my credit card at the ATM in the morning and was successful but also knew cash advances are very expensive so made sure I paid it back straight away. Off we went on our 2 hour bus ride. It wasn't as high as Cusco but I felt very light headed and ill during the trip, which I now believe was due to the awful fumes from the bus. Quito is very polluted because it sits
Worthy of a 4WD hill I think!
but not as good as Sharee & Rob's street!!!! in the valley of the Andes and basically the smog is trapped there. The petrol is not very well refined and so many buses seem to blow smoke. Once at Otavalo, I was fine but definitely dreading the 2 hr trip back.
Linda had been working in the Galapagos for 2 weeks and was able to give me some first hand information about the climate. She also said that I would probably meet Jenny who was currently working in the school as a volunteer with I to I. This was very comforting as so far I had not had any details on who else may be volunteering at the same time as me. Linda and I had a wonderful day at the markets and I discovered that it was much better to buy my souvenirs here than on the Galapagos where the prices are almost triple due to the cost of transporting to the islands. That said I made it my duty to 'shop until I dropped!' with Linda's encouragement all the way. We had a great laugh fighting over finger puppets which I'm pretty sure everyone thinks are for me not for Pearson. Come to think of it,
not sure if they believe I have a grandson but have taken a photo of a random child to use as my excuse for buying finger puppets for lol! Oh! Flossy & Kal, don't worry - I have made sure that there were a couple of noisy toys purchased as well. 😊)) For our newest addition to the Hicks Clan I have found some lovely items that are not so noisy.
After a lovely lunch in a great little restaurant, Linda and I made our last well-thought-out purchases and managed to find our way back to the bus depot in time to hop on a bus that was leaving in the next 5 minutes. It is amazing how few directions you are given to these places and if it wasn't for Linda's Lonely Planet map and my navigational skills (that's right!!!) I think we would still be looking for the market hahaha. But, we made it and were successfully heading back to Quito at a decent hour. Our arrival back at Maria's meant that Linda was also moving to a different hostel and a new volunteer was joining me. In the morning Michelle, Linda & I were picked up
Statue of the Virgin Mary
Incorporating Christian and native beliefs. This statue can be seen from miles around in Quito. by Gabby to travel to the actual equator line. This has been incorporated into a tourist spot where you are also given an explanation and demonstration on the effects of the equator for gravity and the pull from the north and south. Very interesting and I have some great photos which will be explained in the captions. We also got to see some of the native huts that were actually made by the natives living in the jungle, a shrunken head of a 12 year old boy, enormous spiders (dead thank god!) and a fish that sends shivers up my spine with the damage it can do! Gabby then took us to lunch at a very western type café where we also were given some information on the projects we would be involved with and our transport arrangements for the next day. Linda had left us to find the artisan markets but also with arrangements to meet her for drinks at the Secret Garden hostel with its roof top terrace.
Gabby was able to find me a bank who's ATM accepted my card. Unfortunately this came $100 too later in phone calls as my bank had also put a
stop on my credit card when I had used it the day before - even though I had advised them of the places I would be going to in South America 3 months ago! Their text msg was to use the operator to reverse the call but - guess what?? - you can't reverse charge in Ecuador and I was 10 mins on hold before they answered to be able to ask them to call me back! They did take the hold off my card and I did advise that they would be paying my phone bill!!!! Guess I didn't do as much homework on money as I thought I had, but seeing as I am using Visa (worldwide etc ) really didn't anticipate this one. Linda did advise that the Galapagos will be the same and I would need to cue at the bank counter to get any cash out - but at least that's an option!
For me to go to the right bank, Gabby took us into a huge shopping mall and while there, I asked about buying some small containers for shampoo etc. I had to reduce my luggage to 23kg for one bag and
as we all know, toiletries take up the most weight. Unfortunately the closest I could get to these containers were....wait for it..... mustard and tomato sauce bottles! Might look funny but no-one's gonna see me use them so... why not! After dinner Michelle and I packed our bags and then made our way out the front to hail a taxi to the Secret Garden hostel. Why is it that when you want a taxi in the pouring rain you can't find one that is empty?? Oh yeh, it's because it's raining. Took about 15 mins but eventually we got one without running out into the middle of the road (and it was incredibly busy with traffic). We weren't too confident to start with as this taxi didn't have cameras (they all supposed to have 2) and he wasn't sure where the address was (we had to show him on a map where we
thought it was) but he was great and parked right outside the door because, of course, the rain had stopped! Once inside we made our way up spiral stairs and various levels where the dorms were, before reaching the terrace. The view was magnificent and as the
sky had cleared, they decided to light a fire in a drum - so Australian! We stayed until 10.30 when the bar was closed and after two mega beers that was probably a good thing for me, especially trying to get down those stairs again. They had a variety of people staying from 70 year old Mike, an American retired lawyer who is just chilling where-ever he feels like it, Linda almost 60 who loves volunteering with wildlife as she works for the Florida sheriff's office as dog catcher, a whole bunch of 20 something uni students studying architecture, and Michelle (26 years) who is making her way to China to teach English for 6 months with her boyfriend and doesn't speak Chinese and who knows what other interesting people were there! The place is actually run and owned by an Australian who is married to an Ecuadorian wife and tours are arranged through the hostel with a timetable and everything, something almost unheard of in South America!
A fitting end to my 3 days in Quito and while I will look forward to another day there where I intend to visit the Cloud Forest, I was very glad
Pony rides??
Couldn't believe these were being offered from the lookout. to be leaving the polluted conditions. At 7.00am Michelle and I were picked up for our respective journeys, Michelle to the bus terminal - me to the airport. Yep I'm off to the Galapagos Islands at last!!!!!
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