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Garden Party
We celebrated my birthday in Shana's garden with a potluck lunch (featuring Shana's famous homemade pizza). A delicious time was had by all! Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE <w:LsdException Locked="false"
Papallacta Hot Baths
About a dozen pools of varying depth and temperature are artfully scattered among stunning gardens. Priority="22" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false"
Chillin' in the Hot Pools
Ahh! Nothing like an early morning soak to start the day right. Priority="34" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark
Papallacta Hot Springs
The changing rooms look like a stone grotto. These pools are beautifully designed and maintained. List Accent 2"/>
Hot Pools by the River
The original hot springs at Papallacta have been "updated" but are still conveniently located beside the icy, rushing river. <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List
Scarlet's First Passengers
Heading south on the eastern side of the Andes, we gave a lift to this adorable family --the first to ride in Scarlet's truckbed! Accent 5"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true"
Parramo Mists
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Scarlett’s first big adventure! After my belated birthday gathering in Baños I headed back up to Quito to meet Sue. She had spent three weeks at her beach house and was ready to explore the mountains and the jungle with me and Scarlett. Our departure from Quito was delayed a few hours – the official registration of my vehicle was still not complete, despite repeated promises that it would be ready “tomorrow”. The excuse for the latest delay was that one of my ID cards included my middle name and the other had only the middle initial. In spite of the fact that both IDs showed my identical signature and photo, some small-minded bureaucrat decided that “for my own security” they couldn’t issue the vehicle registration because of the inconsistency on the ID cards. Yeah, right.
Since I had
Up the Arajuno River
These cute girls helped us push off from shore -- we gave them a lift across the river with the eggs and groceries they were bringing home. already paid the registration fee, even though it wasn’t issued I was able to go ahead with the required vehicle inspection – a process that took over 2 hours! Sue and I sat in the truck waiting in a line that wrapped around two blocks. She kicked back her seat and disappeared into her book, but I had to pay attention to the line of cars as it inched forward, so I just casually gazed at the owner’s manual of my new truck. I apologized to Sue that she had to spend part of her vacation this way, but I was really glad to get it done so I wouldn’t have to make a trip back to Quito just for the inspection.
Once inspected, we made our way out of town through the wealthy residential valleys east of Quito. Towards dusk the road climbed into the high parramo region and our destination; the hot springs town of Papallacta. We were happy to arrive before nightfall, but decided not to splurge for the fancy hotel. Since it was a weekday immediately after a holiday weekend, we were able
Creative Seating
Love the carved benches and chairs at Liana Lodge -- like lounging with friends. to get the price lowered on a room just up the road from the pricey digs. Pampallacta is a cute, funky place with a large indoor hot pool. It felt great to let the muscles relax, but the water was actually too hot for more than a few minutes’ soak.
It’s c-o-l-d up at 11,000+ feet of altitude, so we were glad that our room had a big fireplace. Even though all our clothes smelled like woodsmoke afterwards, it was nice to fall asleep to the crackle and glow of a fire. Sue and I are both early risers, so by 7 am we were up at the Termas de Papallacta; a fabulous hot springs complex that has developed into a beautiful resort over the years. In 1988 I first visited the original rocky hot pool which is perched alongside the icy cold rushing river. I took my parents there when they came down to visit me in 1989. Although it’s now mostly tiled and has steps and railings, it still has rock accents and hanging vines – a place of fond memories for me.
Contemplating the River at Dusk
Sue's looking westward up the Arajuno, a small offshoot of the Rio Napo which is a major tributary of the mighty Amazon. The hot springs resort seems to have more new pools each time I visit. This time the new addition was bubbles which kick in for 15 minutes once an hour. Sue and I had a great time trying out each of the hot pools, scurrying from one to the other in the chill morning air. We shot photos of the fantastic gardens – at that high altitude branches are draped with mosses and the flowering bushes and trees seem almost otherworldly in the cloudy mist.
Refreshed and relaxed from our morning baths, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast before heading out. Our journey took us along the eastern slopes of the Andes, down to the jungle town of Tena. A few times along the way we gave people lifts in the back of the pick-up truck. Buses run only once or twice a day on the more remote stretches of highway, so I’m always glad to be able to help with transport. Inevitably folks try to pay me, but I always refuse (to their delight and gratitude).
Sue in Artist Mode
Sue painted most every day during her Ecuador holiday -- very impressive! She was mightily inspired at Liana Lodge, and encouraged other budding artists to join her! The way I view it, I was going that way anyhow!
In the late afternoon we arrived at the pick-up point for the canoe that was to take us downriver to Liana Lodge. I had been to this lovely jungle lodge several times before, and it was nice to be back. Alas, I was unable to join Sue on the excursions because I had to stay close to a bathroom. My gut problems were back – in full force! One of the nights we were there I spent more time on the toilet than in bed – at one point I brought my pillow into the bathroom with me. If I had to lie low for a day or two, I couldn’t think of a nicer, more comfortable place to do so. The cabaña was airy and bug-free, with huge screened windows on all sides. I could lay back in my bed and enjoy the lush foliage with its accompanying bug noises and birdsong.
Since this was Sue’s first visit to the Amazon Basin, it was
Dining Room Monkey
Glimpsed at dusk from the dining area of Liana Lodge, this little guy made it hard to get a photo of him! nice that she could take a jungle walk with a patient guide (good practice for her ever-improving Spanish!) and visit the Amazoonica Animal Rescue Center. The meals at Liana Lodge are mostly vegetarian; freshly prepared creative dishes made with mostly locally grown ingredients. Too bad nothing was very appealing to my with my current tummy troubles. It’s v-e-r-y rare that I lose my appetite!!
Driving back out of the jungle, towards Baños I continued to have stomach problems so I made the decision to stop at the hospital on the way. The town of Shell started as an oil town (hence, the name) but has grown and developed in interesting ways over the past 50-60 years. Possibly because of the airstrip located there (on the edge of the jungle), the HCJB (Hoy Cristo Jesus Bendice) Evangelists have set up the VozAndes Hospital. Staffed with mostly US doctors, equipment and supplies and subsidized by the Missionary Community, it provides an important service to the rural indigenous communities.
I was so glad Sue (a trained nurse) was along
Cacao before Chocolate
Hard to believe that this cottony, spongy matter hids the "nibs" which will eventually become rich, creamy chocolate! with me on this health odyssey. As we walked into the Emergency Clinic on a Sunday afternoon I whispered to her, “Don’t tell them I’m Jewish!” We were taken in right away and I was seen by two female doctors, an American who was born & raised in Ecuador in a missionary family (odd to hear native Spanish flowing from this tall blonde gal!) and a young woman from Quito who had attended a bilingual school and spoke excellent English.
In addition to my stomach complaints I was becoming increasing concerned about peeling skin on the palms of my hands. Preliminary examinations indicated that I was severely dehydrated; they insisted that I drink a liter of cherry flavored Pedialyte a capful at a time so I wouldn’t throw up. As I slowly choked down the sickly sweet, slightly salty fluid we taught the Ecuadorian doctor how to say “vomit” in as many euphemistic ways as we could (i.e. toss cookies, spew, upchuck, hurl, upchuck, drive the porcelain bus, pray to the ceramic goddess, etc.) We all had a good laugh!
Water Falling over Rock
On the road to Swiss Bistro Finca, the falling water highlights the beauty of this rocky outcrop. Once I was hydrated, they were able to draw blood and they asked me for a stool sample. Sure, no problem, I thought! Well, I was struck with what I call “shy sphincter syndrome” – the little plastic receptacle seems to make everything slam shut. SO – they fed me more Pedialyte in an attempt to get things moving along. It did. Other patients waiting on benches saw this big gringa sprint down the hallway to the restroom!
While the hospital lab was getting the results of my “fluid samples”, Sue and I wandered around the sleepy town and looked around for something to eat (no easy feat on a Sunday afternoon!). Shell is a quirky mish-mash of a town – statues of large porcelain parrots in the park, right beside an old bi-plane balanced on a pole. A few attempts at modern architecture next to crumbling cement block buildings on rutted dirt roads. We weren’t quite sure what to make of the painting of an Indian woman on the exterior wall of a rundown bar.
Visiting Patrick in Cumanda
Heading back to Banos we stopped to visit the new Swiss Bistro location -- Patrick has created a lovely spot across the river. The good news was that my test results ruled out parasites and bacterial infection. I knew it wasn’t a flare-up of Crohn’s disease; the way I’d been feeling in no way resembled any of the bouts of Crohn’s I’d had in the past. Basically, I was told, my gut had no flora and therefore my digestive tract was compromised. The doctors in Shell agreed that I should continue with all of the medications I’d been prescribed in Quito, step up my intake of probiotics (acidophilus, floratil, yogurt) and follow a totally fat-free diet completely devoid of high fructose corn syrup. They suggested certain foods that would slow the motility rates of my intestines.
Another hour up the road and we made a 'pit stop' at Patrick's Finca Swiss Bistro -- a new restaurant located in a lovely setting across the Pastaza River. I enjoyed seeing my old friend and admiring the improvements he'd made on the place (and I was grateful for his spacious restroom with a garden view). As always I loved the ride up the Ruta de las Cascadas -- nice
Scarlet on Scary Bridge
They assure me this bridge can support 60 tons, but it's a challenge to aim the tires so they roll along the wooden strips. to share it with Sue who was seeing the many waterfalls for the first time.
Once back in Baños all I ate for two full days was white rice, boiled or roasted plantains and guava juice and chamomile tea. It worked! My diarrhea actually stopped and I was able to sleep through the night for the first time in ages. After Sue left for her flight out of Quito, I went ahead with the plans to host a paella luncheon on my last afternoon in town to say good-bye to some of my Baños friends. Uh oh! I guess the seafood rice dish was a little too rich and once again my gut kicked into high gear.
Needless to say the drive down to the coast (about 9 hours) had a few emergency stops. As of this writing (a full week after arriving on the coast) I am still suffering severe diarrhea. It’s pretty hot and sweaty here so I’m drinking tons of water to try and stay hydrated. All I’ve eaten is a banana &
A Paella Farewell!
Last day in Banos I invited a group of friends to share a Paella Lunch at La Tasca restaurant. Here we are, drooling over the huge pan of paella! dry bread for breakfast, white rice and grilled fish for lunch and nothing in the evening (so that I can hopefully sleep through most of the night). I have an appointment this week with a gastroenterologist in the big city of Manta (2 hrs north) so hopefully I’ll find a solution before I start back to work at the hotel later this month!
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XuXu
non-member comment
Great trip
Jill, thanks so much for your entertaining, enjoyable descriptions of our trip. I had such a good time and saw so much; you captured the highlights very well. Thank you again---Your friend, XuXu