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Published: October 28th 2009
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The town of Latacunga, the capital of the province of Cotopaxi is chaotic on a Saturday, arriving mid day, lots of things going on I noticed as the bus crossed the blue bridge and into the narrow streets, i was the only one left in the bus, the driver told me to get off, i said take me to the terminal, he said it was before the bridge where everyone else got off! I got annoyed and yelled at him and the bus conductor, why the hell did they not tell me! Just gave me a blank stare back. Mumbling to myself I collected my backpack, I started to walk aimlessly, the bus is stuck in traffic, the bus conductor was shouting me directions on how to get to the terminal, f..k off I said under my breath, totally ticked off.
I have the address of Tiana Hostal written somewhere, i found it in my pocket and asked the guy standing at the corner store, Guayaquil St. is this, he pointed to the left go straight, 2 blocks to your right, sweet, i did not need a taxi, the bus drop me off closer after all, I cooled down a
bit. met Katrina, the owner of the hostel, she checked me in and gave me maps and directions to Cotopaxi and Quilotoa loop. i am in the 10 bed dorm, empty, just me. She told me there will be a cabalgatas fiesta today and the parade will pass through just outside of the hostel so i waited in the room. I heard the band coming, the parade is here, i jumped and ran to the streets, people on horseback with colorful costumes with music, some were doing some local dances. I noticed that the cowboys all have a liquor in their hand, a beer or rhum, getting shit faced while mounted on a horse, the horses were slipping and sliding in the slick cobblestones, people scampering about every now and then trying to get away from a sliding horse, I was busy taking fotos but every once in awhle i notice a horse's behind next to my face, time to move away a bit.
They were getting trophies from a stage next to the church, dont know what they all won. vendors, touts were busy selling their wares, chicharron, fruits, cotton candies, beans, motes whatever trinkets they can think
of. i got tired of the scene so went back to the hostel, i have a new room mate, well 2, a couple from France, Hevre(?) and Lucy, they just came from doing part of the Quilotoa loop so i quizzed them enthusiastically. I decided to check out the market scene, as usual i got lost again trying to find it, i got instructions from Katrina but no, i did not listen, but i did find it eventually following the crowds, i was hungry so 1st thing is find lunch, the food stalls are selling all type of animal parts, from pigs, cows, goats, llamas maybe, some i cant identify, i usually have a strong stomach, but this was overwhelming, i sat down where i found some lechon and had a plate of pork and fried mashed potatoes, very popular here, good but a tad bit salty. Some locals are wearing native costumes with kids in tow, after the meal i walked to the veggie market and took heaps of fotos, very colorful, lots of fresh fruits and veggies and an odd guy selling crabs!! I bought a big bag of mandarinas for a mere$1 and avocado.
I saw
the indoor market so i went in, lots of meat and fish and whatever else on display for sale, i asked permission to take fotos, most obliged but goes away trying not to be photographed. Got tired so went back to the hostel and chatted with the Frenchies. I signed up for Cotopaxi day trip with Tovar the next door travel company, i was told by Katrina never book a trip with the travel agency inside the hostel complex as they had bad experiences with them, i thought it was theirs as it was inside the compound, hmmm. that night Lucy and Hvere introduced me to Afar a Dutch girl she and her Finnish friend are doing Cotopaxi tomorrow but with another company, i decided to join them, $35 for a day trip on a jeep with a guide and lunch. I prepared snacks for tomorrow's excursion, i bought quail eggs in the market but they were uncooked, we are not allowed to use the kitchen but i asked Jose the other owner/partner if i can have it cooked in the kitchen, he says no problem. After a meal of spaghetti bolognese in the hostel as most places are already
shut, i went to bed.
Early rise, we got picked up at 7:30am, Marcelo was our driver and guide, he spoke only Spanish we were all able to speak it so we just help each other out if one does not understand something. it was about 45minutes drive to the park entrance, at the turn, we gave a local woman a lift to the park museum, she was telling us about her family, her kids and their life basically here in this region, she was quite funny and was surprised i can understand her fully, she spoke slowly. It was a bit cold and the sun was nowhere to be found, lots of clouds but it slowly cleared up as we drove towards the mountain, we stopped several times to admire Cotopaxi, so beautiful! Oh we have to pay $10 entry fee but all included in the package. the ride up to the start of the hike is pretty, windy roads, we got to the snow line and the view got more interesting, it reminds me of the day trip i did in Chacaltaya in La Paz, Bolivia same scenery.
At the starting point we were at 4,500m. We
slowly walk up to the base camp at roughly 4,800m, we all walked slowly and pacing ourselves, the ground is made of scree and snow so its important to get a good footing, the girls were given sticks to help the walk easier, I struggled mightily with altitude, shortness of breath, and fast haeartbeat but once we made it to the camp we were ok, i had my quail egg and mandarins there, i was starved!
After the girls had their hot chocolate drink at the camp, we headed to the glacier, as we chill a bit at the camp we saw the climbers on their way down from the top, these were the people who did a 2 day hike up the summit, i spoke to one girl who did not make it to the top, she said it was quite difficult for her, and not all made it to the summit, she said 3 groups turned back, i commended her for at least trying. I am here solely as a day trip to be as far as the glacier, I knew it will be difficult for me, maybe another time, its enough that i see the glacier
and a glimpse of the mountain up close. The walk to the glacier took a good 20 minutes, we cant go on further because of the danger of avalanche. Afar wanted to see the other side as well, me and Heidi stayed in the camp while Marcelo walked with Afar. When they came bak we went down the mountain, by now lots of groups are just about climbing, and the clouds started rolling in, we were lucky to have started early!
We drove to a Lake called Limpiopungo, not that spectacular, but lots of birdlife. We had lunch there then we got dropped off at the other end of Sendero Parama, a trail that leads back to the museo info center.
WE got introduced to different plants by Marcelo, herbal plants, medicinal name it they all have a use for it. We enjoyed the nice walk, there was a canyon, and some infos on every vista/panoramic points, all in Spanish, Afar took out her dictionary! Then back to town again, end of the trip, Afar and Heidi is leaving this afternoon to Banos.
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Papa Deana
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Your blog was very interesting. i have been there also. Great market/