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Tungurahua Reawakens
After less than a week of R&R in Banos, I had to head back down to the coast. Driving out of town the volcano started to act up and belch smoke. This 6:30 am shot from the highway looks like a powerful fist pump! After bidding farewell to the volunteer Engineers I had a short visit in Banos before heading back down to the coast. I didn’t want to make the drive alone so I put out the word that I was looking for riders. To my good fortune I met a lovely Austrian woman in hot baths. Veronica was going to the coast and her Argentine boyfriend, Hugo came along. We had great fun together, stopping to see a few tourist sites and the long drive flew by!
The main purpose of my return to the coast was to finalize the sale of my property. My treasured friend, Victor took a day off from his new job in Guayaquil and came up to Puerto Lopez to help orchestrate the transfer of title. Alternating between the municipal offices, the property registrar’s office and the notary’s office we finally managed to fill out all the forms, pay all the fees, and (alas) bribe the necessary officials (who seemed to be in cahoots with one another). The fact that I was driving a shiny new truck didn’t seem to help matters. Despite the current
Discovering Playa Dorada
A new dirt road has opened access to this golden beach - my adopted sisters say that the sand is the same color as my skin, so when I lay on the beach I disappear! government’s best efforts to reduce corruption, it still runs rampant amid small town bureaucrats. The inflated figures I was quoted seemed arbitrary and extreme and with Victor’s help I ended up paying about half of what each official original asked. Nonetheless, it was a very expensive day.
Once the property transfer was official, it felt so luxurious to have a work-free week on the coast! I was able to spend time with my adopted family, reconnect with some old friends and visit a few favorite places while staying for the last time at Alandaluz,. The buyer of my cabanas, Angela, was there with her in-laws. One day I took her mother-in-law with me down to the little school where I am “godmother” and we both received heartfelt hugs from all the kids
Just north of where my property had been, a previously inaccessible beach has now been opened to the public. Playa Dorado (Golden Beach) is a hidden cove with gold colored sand. My
Cabana Improvements
New owners wasted no time in making changes - like extending the front terrace, creating a covered entryway. adopted sisters, Beatriz & Johana joked that the sands are exactly the same color as my skin, so when I lay down I disappear into the beach itself! Jutting headlands to the north and south are of volcanic rock. When the tide crashes over the dark craggy spits, the cascading effect is one of low waterfalls.
The sulphur lagoon at Agua Blanca is one of my favorite places! I dragged Marianne & Silvia away from their respective jobs and we had a relaxing day. I adore swimming in the velvety water, gliding through warm spots fed by natural springs. It seems to have a special density and the squishy mud bottom sends up Jacuzzi bubbles in certain spots. We enjoyed a picnic lunch and a hike up to the overlook. Over five years ago I’d taught English to the guides in this indigenous community and they all still remember me: “Hello Teacher! How are you?!”
Even though the property paperwork took only a day and a half to
Mud Maidens
Every chance I get, I head to the Agua Blanca lagoon. I pried Marianne away from her work and spend a glorious day enjoy the sulfur springs and full body mud masques! complete I stayed a full week, mostly because I’d been invited to Mandala to attend a dinner in celebration of the owner’s birthday. The afternoon of the party I stopped by to visit former French student, Jaibel at his Colombian restaurant. An avid cyclist, he had selected the mountain bikes that Aurelio bought for Maja’s birthday gift. Since I was headed to the hotel I volunteered to help with the cycle delivery. So, Jaibel loaded the two new bikes into the truck bed, along with his own bike (so he could ride home after the delivery).
As the sun began to set I continued to use the wifi at the restaurant until, out of the corner of my eye I saw a guy lower Jaibel’s bike from the truck, jump on and ride off. Reacting instantly, I shouted Jaibel’s name and when he took off running and screaming the thief freaked out, ditched the bike and ran like hell. A crowd began to gather and a vehicle started chasing the robber, even as Jaibel kept running after him. Someone must have called the
Birthday Bike Delivery
For Maja's bday, Aurelio had Jaibel buy her a mountain bike and Scarlett was called upon to deliver it. While parked in front of Jaibel's restaurant a thief almost succeeded in stealing it! police – sirens blaring they joined in the chase. Big excitement in a small town! They thief was quickly caught and taken to the station.
That night, after Maja’s birthday dinner, I stayed in town at Villa Colombia where my sweet Chaco pup is buried. The following morning I drove up to Manta, an hour and a half north to have a chiropractic adjustment before making the long drive back up to Quito. By late afternoon I felt completely exhausted and stopped in the little town of El Carmen (a real armpit of a place). I found a hotel that seemed relatively clean and chose a quiet room with a powerful fan and no windows opening to the outside. I promptly fell asleep and awakened 14 hours later, ready to make the drive up through the Andes.
After an overnight with friends in the valleys below Quito, I continued on up to the northern city of Ibarra accompanied by stunning views of Cayambe mountain for more than an hour! This
Glorious Cayambe!
For a full hour of my drive north this stunning snow-cap glowed in the sunlight. Straddling the equatorial line, Cayambe's peak is calculated to be the furthest point from the earth's core. massive, densely snow-capped peak which straddles the equator rose up, crystal clear against blue skies. Roger and I met up at the grocery store in Ibarra to continue the drive to his recently renovated farmhouse in Cahuasqui.
On the road out of Ibarra we stopped at a nursery where we spent hours choosing plants, flowers, and fruit trees. We continued on towards Roger’s home, the truck bed filled with garden goodies. I had last seen the old farmhouse as Roger was just beginning work on the renovation. He’s done all the work himself and created a beautiful home in a stunning setting. I hadn’t had access to cooking facilities in quite a while, and it was fun to improvise in his basic kitchen with its on-again/off-again water supply. I enjoyed preparing creative meals and baking some yummy chocolate chip cookies; Roger is a very appreciative eater!
We visited some friends of Roger’s; US college professors within a few years of retirement who
At the Plant Nursery
Scarlett and I helped Roger "schlep" a huge blue water barrel and dozens of plants and trees up to his newly renovated farmhouse in Cahuasqui. come down each year to work on their spectacular home. The wife, an artist, was completing a full wall mural. Roger accompanied me back to Quito, and we left in the early morning so we’d have time to stop at the Chachimbiro Hot Baths. These were among the best natural hot springs I’ve visited in Ecuador, and I’ve been to six or eight different sites. At Chachimbiro we luxuriated in powerful waterfall pools, the crashing jets providing an unparalleled back massage!
While in Quito I had a few medical visits and I made the rounds, visiting old friend to collect donations for the annual volunteer library garage sale. One friend was getting ready to change apartments, so she had several large bags full to offer, and another friend was getting rid of maternity and baby clothes as she and her young son prepared to move back to Holland. Yet another friend finally got motivated to clean out her husband’s closets after his passing several years ago. My new rubber tarp got a workout as it stretched taut over a heaving truckbed
An Island in the Sky
Roger's home has stunning views all around. Perched on a hill above the town of Cahuasqui which is located on a mesa floating amid a glorious interandean valley. full of goodies.
Within five minutes of arriving in Banos, while I was still unloading donations from the truck at the Biblioteca, I was offered a teaching job! A teenaged girl who had studied English at the library was being enrolled in a French language High School in the nearby city of Ambato. I arranged with Estefania’s parents to give her a one month intensive French course. We met for one-on-one lessons for an hour and a half three times a week. From the very start I let her know that for each of our lessons together she would be expected to do an hour of homework. What a pleasure to teach such a dedicated and highly motivate student! Upon completion of our four weeks of classes together, she was able to compose a basic letter to a pen pal and orally tell about herself and her family.
I enjoyed giving French lessons, as it gave some structure to my
Fishing Lagoons
Finca de la Vaca in Cumanda, on the road to the Amazon Basin, dropping down from Banos. Lush gardens, stone pathways, a pleasant escape from town. month of R&R. I once again stayed in the guest house in the garden at Shana’s place. Most every morning she and I played at least two or three games of Scrabble (and often more). Several days a week we enjoyed relaxing and swimming at El Salado hot baths, just a 5 minute walk up the hill from the house. When it wasn’t too rainy I’d walk down the hill into town for my classes. It felt good to be walking in Banos again – enjoying the town at a slower pace. I was reminded how much I miss when I’m zooming past in my truck!
Many afternoons I’d stay on in town once I’d finished teaching classes. After running errands I went around to Casa del Abuelo where I’d join my new friend, Lorenzo, for a few games of Cribbage or Backgammon. Ursula was busy in the kitchen whipping up amazing cakes and pies with local ingredients. Alas, I had to try each one and my walks and swims could hardly offset the calories ingested. Avocado cheesecake, Tree Tomato Layer
Indoor/Outdoor Dining
Patrick (on right) has created a gastronomical paradise! He invited me to spend the night when we worked on the "advertorial" article that will appear in the International Miami Herald. Cake, Naranjilla mousse, Passion Fruit and Blackberry pie. YUM!!
One of the tasks I had to complete during my stay in Banos was to write an “advertorial” for the International Miami Herald. My friend, Patrick, bought a year of advertising for his two Swiss Bistro restaurants. He invited me to come down and spend the night at his new location in Cumanda on the route of the waterfalls as the road drops down to the Amazon Basin. Together we worked on the article as we toured the lush, beautiful grounds and I enjoyed delicious meals with Patrick and his personnel. It was a very pleasant get-a-way from daily life in Banos.
While I was staying at Shana’s, old friends Boby & Jody came up from their jungle retreat for a visit. Boby & I worked together to create a unique cement wall alongside the house. A low, basic cement block wall was expanded and embellished. A mirrored window had broken in one of the
Mosaic Wall by Jill & Boby
Boby created a checkerboard of bottles and bricks and I filled int he spaces with shells and stones and more! We worked to the rumbling of the volcano. volcano rumbles and Boby affixed the large triangular pieces on the lower part of the wall. Then he built upper rows interspersing hollow bricks and glass bottles. It made for a unique checkerboard design. My job was to fill in the gaps with a mosaic of shells, stones, broken tiles and assorted other tidbits I’d mined from my bauble collection.
The last couple of weeks I was in Banos the volcano became active once again. Mama Tungurahua rumbles and shakes, spews and gushes steam, smoke, and pyroclastic matter. If the skies are clear at dawn and dusk, it’s especially dramatic to view the fiery tongue of lava shooting up the middle of the ash columns. The crater faces away from town and the prevailing winds generally carry debris off towards the coast. Therefore, we can marvel to her awesome beauty and power without too much fear or risk.
Shana and I got out for a few social gatherings. At the Stray Dog Brew Pub Jim hosted a night of open
Tungurahua at Dawn
Ah! So wonderful to be back in Banos, awakening to this view! The morning light makes the dusting of snow glow and illuminates the wisps of clouds, steam, smoke & ash. mike spoken word. He’s an amazing poet and performer and this was the second time I’d heard him read some of his work. I participated as well, reworking a piece about the Giant Redwoods I'd written last year for Tamara & Brian's wedding in Mendocino. One night Shana and I attended a ladies’ dinner at a unique, out-of-the-way restaurant. To celebrate the 42
nd anniversary of Shana’s arrival in Ecuador, I invited her to a day of beauty treatments at El Refugio, the Spa where I gave English classes last fall. We also organized a ladies’ lunch gathering the day before I left Banos.
It’s always great to spend time in Banos with Shana. We take turns cooking lunch for one another on the days we’re both at home. Shana is planning some home improvements and together we went to look at bathroom tiles, flooring and more. We get lost in the hours and hours of Scrabble we play. We are so evenly matched that more often than not our scores are within points of each other as the end of each game nears. Someday we should keep
Clouds, Steam & Ash
Mama T was kicking up a fuss for several weeks. Fortunately, the winds cooperated so that the dense, dark ash columns were blown away from the town of Banos. a running total over a period of weeks…no doubt we’d come out just about even! My life kicks into high gear again, so chances are we won’t see each other until December, but I’m hoping she might be able to join me then for a trip up the coast!
PS - Please be sure to scroll down to see the rest of the photos!
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Tamara
non-member comment
Yea! I love that you reworked your wedding reading for the Banos open mic! Sooo looking forward to seeing you soon!