The journey from Pasto to Popayán led through beautiful landscape quite distinct from the regions I have seen so far in Ecuador. At times I felt like in Africa: the bus was filled almost entirely with black people (descendants from slaves brought to Colombia centuries ago), black people were walking in the fields and sitting outside the houses along the highway, and skinny white cattle were searching the dry steppes for something to eat. As we descended further towards Popayán the landscape turned greener and towards the evening was illuminated in fluorescent green and yellow, with a rainbow above it, very
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