The other side of the peso

Traveling is pretty amazing. The local language, amazing people, stunning views, exotic food, surreal experiences, different cultures, and new ideas. It makes you wonder why everyone doesn't do this. Why you didn't do it sooner and why you can't do it more.

It can also suck.

The local language of Spanish is one of the main reasons that I chose to travel in South America. I studied for 1 year in High School, 1 in College, and for another year independently on my own before coming...and I can't understand what people are saying to me. I can usually say what I need to say...usually. It's getting easier to comprehend on the first try, but usually, I have to ask people to repeat things they say 2 or 7 times before I understand that they want me to give them 500 pesos, or a "moneda" (about $0.25 US).

Which brings me to the people. Yes, there are very nice people who come from different cultures and have a lot to teach me. There is also a less fortunate individual for every 2 of those people. I have not yet gone outside of the door of my hostel anywhere and not been hit up for money. I give here and there, for old women, some kids, or if someone just looks like they're really in need. I gave the rest of my juice to a lady sleeping in the street in Santa Marta and she looked like she'd not had a non alcoholic drink in days. All day and night, there are men, women, and children sleeping literally on the sidewalk with twice as many dogs. Just sprawled out with no sort of even makeshift pillow, surrounded by flies. It makes me very sad, but there's only so much I can do for them. I give when I can. If a guy asks me for a water, I'll always buy it. There cheap here (about a moneda for a 300ml bag of water) and that's what they need more than anything.

And while the friendly people I've met more than make up for the heartache and headache of the street people, there's no way they can replace the people most important in your life. I miss my girlfriend and my dog daily and nightly. That's the one thing that so far has made me wish that I had not taken the trip. Don't get me wrong, I don't regret the trip as a whole. If I had not taken this trip, I'd have missed out on lots, and there's lots more to come. But I sure wish Emily and Charlie could be here. I'd love to share these views with them.

Then there's the stunning views. The Lighthouse Island about 3 km off the beach in Santa Marta, the view of Caracas from the top of Mt. Avila, and the serene, completely empty and beautiful playa brava, tucked between two mountains. There are also mountains of trash everywhere you look. OK, not everywhere. Some places pay people to clean up the floor and area (the Tayrona national park seems to have been mostly respected and Cartagena is fairly clean) but the region as a whole has very poor public sanitation and literally has trash everywhere. I don't know how many times I've seen a person just throw a wrapper or plastic bag on the ground. The crap is everywhere. Don't they see what they're doing? But its not my place to say anything. It's their land. It drives me nuts, but if I speak up they'd just think I'm an arrogant American, would rightfully think about the fact that the US produces more pollution than any other country in the world except China, and brush me off. And even if I convinced one person, it wouldn't put a dent it these trash mountains or put one more trash can in the park. I seriously considered starting a non-profit organization in Santa Marta to fund more trash cans on the beach. It really is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been blessed to see, but the beach gets covered in trash daily. Such a pity.

Interestingly, though, Colombia uses a lot of Natural Gas in their vehicles. It causes 1/10 the pollution gas does, and it costs about 1/5 as much. They are very aware and proud of the ecological benefit of Natural Gas. The US and President Obama are considering a similar system. If you'd like to see it succeed in the US, helping to reduce carbon emissions, reduce the cost to travel, and create a new industrial boom in the US *we have tons of natural gas just waiting to be extracted*, go to www.pickensplan.com.

The food is great, too. No, really it is. I don't have many complaints here. I've tried a few things I didn't like, such as bollo, which is basically hominy paste, but nothing has made me sick or tasted revolting. One day in the local market I smelled some things I'd rather not have, but overall, the food is really good and very cheap. Street limonada vendors and chuzo vendors are my faves. Limonada is fresh limeade for a moneda and chuzos are grilled steak, chicken, sausage, or ears of corn on a skewer with potatoes or other veggies for 1000 to 2000 pesos, about a buck.

And I've had some...interesting experiences, too. Like the guy that told me to give him money in the pool room...and meant it (I didn't give it to him), the ride in a busted down Malibu from Maracaibo to Maicao, getting searched by armed police/soldiers in the park while playing chess, getting caught in the dark 2 hours away from the national park exit in the rain, then after finally getting to the main road, hopping on a cross country bus that accidentally took me 15 kM too far, then made me get out and hitch a ride back, only to be escorted via the back of a pickup from a military installation of some sort back to within taxi range of the hostel, and finally arriving home at 11 pm, just as the owner's birthday party started. Those were all fun...in a weird, scary, non-life threatening (don't worry Emily and Dad), sort of way.

Other than that, it's all pretty much all good. I make it sound awful in this entry, but it's not. It's absolutely worth it. Sure, I have to sleep in a room with 3 other stinky dudes, have to practice self surgery when I completely lose a toenail, then try to communicate with the pharmacist to buy Peroxide (don't worry Emily and Dad. The toe has healed nicely), and I have to sit on a few toilets with no seats but I wouldn't change it...except having Emily here. That would make it perfect...almost perfect.

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