Santiago de Chile

Santiago is set in a spectacular environment: located on a wide plain near the foot of the Andes it is sometimes possible to enjoy a most spectacular view of the snow-covered Andes. The high peaks rise against the sky thus dwarfing the big city with its 5 million inhabitants, which is actually a third of the whole Chilean population.

Getting around in Santiago is easy: there is a spotless clean metro system which is by any means far better, modern and cheaper than either the metro in Paris or the tube in London. Alternatively, hop on one of the battered yellow diesel buses. These dirty, loud and smelly buses offer a good a good opportunity to get in touch with some of the locals - that is, if you are capable to make yourself heard over the bus engine.

Downtown Santiago

The Plaza de Armas was the first public place laid out by the Spanish in 1541 when they founded the city. Wandering around this place gives some very nice impressions: old men playing chess, women selling goods on small stands, children running around, artists offering their paintings for sale - all in a relatively relaxed and calm atmosphere.

The Cathedral at the west end of the plaza is a stark contrast to the modern mirrored building on the other side of the street. This is actually the fifth church on this spot, the first one was destroyed by fire and a further three by earthquakes. Let's wait and see what will happen to this one...

The nearby Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino houses a collection of the native Latin American people, altogether some 3,000 pieces of the last 10,000 years. It gives a good impression on the diversity in art of the continents many native cultures.

Back on the plaza, two parallel shopping streets run south. They are pedestrianised, very clean and offer plenty of opportunities to spend money, however the prices are at western European levels. The best coffee is served in one of the coffee chains like Café Haiti or Café Caribe. Nicknamed café con piernas by the Chileans these chains all use a similar strategy: all the coffee is served by good-looking women in miniskirts - emancipation obviously hasn't arrived here yet.

Barrio Bellavista and Cerro San Cristóbal

The small Bellavista quarter is definitely the place to be in Santiago for a night out. Packed with atmospheric restaurants, pubs and bars it offers plenty of possibilities to enjoy a nice evening with live music or lyric readings. My favourite place there was the film and jazz restaurant Muneca Brava located in the quiet side street Mallin Krodt 170. The interior with its classic movie posters, old video cameras and stage designs is superb and the food I had there was both reasonable priced and good. Regular live jazz music adds to the nice atmosphere.

A funicular runs up the steep slopes of Cerro San Cristóbal. Especially on a clear day or during sunset this is one of the highlights in Santiago. Located practically in the middle of the city the summit offers an excellent view on the city itself as well as on the snow-covered Andes. These impressive snow-covered mountains dwarfed the dozens of skyscrapers down in the valley.

Mercado Central and amazing La Vega

North from the Plaza de Armas lies the Mercado Central building. It is quite picturesque and houses the fish market with eel and salmon, oysters and crabs and much more on display. There is a nice (fish) restaurant beneath the glass roof in the centre of the building.

Just to the north, across the Rio Mapocho lies La Vega - a stunningly interesting and one of the biggest markets I’ve ever been to. The market is roughly divided in three areas: there is a meat market which you have to cross (hold your breath) if you want to get to the much more appealing fruit and finally vegetables stands. The fact that La Vega is mainly wholesale results in breathtaking quantities of products on display. An experience not to miss in Santiago!

---

---