I'd read other traveller's accounts of Torres del Paine, and so expected a lot of this remote Pategonian national park with its towering granite massif, exotic wildlife, fields of ice and snow, glaciers calving into crystal turquoise lakes, fast flowing rivers, powerful storms and biting winds, and a hardy horse culture at the far end of the Americas. Pristine Torres del Paine is all these things and some more..... ahh, how the temptation is to launch into superlatives.... Like all vast wilderness areas it makes you feel small yet somehow connected, daunted yet somehow reassured. Like the Kimberley in Western Australia or the Great Barrier Reef, it feels like I was emersed in something magnificient. We spent 5 days in the park, staying at the Rio Serrano Hotel, directly to the south of the massif, and
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