Blogs from Torres del Paine, Magallanes, Chile, South America - page 3

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South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine February 14th 2018

Booking accommodation in the Torres del Paine National Park has been an ordeal. There are three providers, all of which operate in complete isolation of the others. All have websites and all of these are unrelated to reality. The threat is that if you arrive at a site without a booking then you will be fined and thrown out of the park. The reality is that if you get to a refuge in an evening there is nowhere else to go.... so they book you into one of the many “fully booked” vacant rooms and campsites. All this for £160 a night for a fully kitted out tent and food. Staff generally behave as if they are doing you a big favour to acknowledge your existence and service requires perseverance. One of our nights we were ... read more
Grand Paine
Las Torres
Such a happy chappie!

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine February 5th 2018

The sky was clear when we left Calafate. We were driving East however, and fast, so it was highly likely we would meet up again with the storm which we had watched go over us earlier that morning. We did. It was cold. We rose up to meet it, climbing onto the high Patagonia plateau. The temperature dropped to 45 degrees F ( 6 degrees C). The fog came down. We plunged on into the mist, all lights blazing, not knowing quite what would come next. After an hour or two of misery, we watched the clouds lift and drift off to the East. We motored on South to Esperanza (Hope), not even considering a wet gravel short cut down Route 40 to the Chilean Border. Been there. Not doing that. The Westerly winds were good ... read more
We come in sight of the mountains again
The gas station we should have visited
Argentine side of the Chile border

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine March 2nd 2017

We sailed through the Straights of Magellan to reach Punta Arenas for 2 pm and it was a murky day so not much to see. From there we headed to Ushuaia with the morning cruising through Glacier Alley. This is a channel with many hanging glaciers visible whenever the clouds / rain lift. Glimpses of them were sufficient to get photos. In all we had 3 days at sea. The first was a trip around Cape Horn. We reached there just before dawn and I was thrilled to see the Rock out of our porthole about 5.30. I woke Paul with this exciting news only to receive a grunt so took myself up to the back deck where others had gathered to film as as we sailed by. Around 6 the captain announced that we were ... read more
Cape Horn Close
Glacial waterfall
Cape Horn from porthole

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine August 10th 2016

Patagonia. It all seems so far out. We think right away of the end of the world, the middle of nowhere, well, it is certainly around the corner from there, that is for sure. 5:30 hrs drive sound okay to get somewhere more or less exotic but this one we did during the night, crossing borders in gravel and dirt roads, through the mountains and with a thick fog, and no map at all we might add - although we were very much prepared with our world wide tom-tom, this one didn't have anything but Europe on it as we found out starting our journey - someone at the shop forgot to mention we needed to download the rest of it. We wanted adventurous? We certainly got it. Pure on instinct and gut feelings is that ... read more
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South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine April 7th 2016

Torres del Paine We were now free and clear of any jobs and Spanish classes as we crossed back over the border into Chile for our grand finale in South America. The goal was to hike the "O" circuit in Torres del Paine national park in southern Patagonia. The trek would circumnavigate around the outside edges of the entire park, all the while setting up camp at specific areas called campementos or Refugio's. Some of these sites were nothing more than an open field to set up a tent while some of the others had huts and even a small general store to buy certain supplies, such as chocolate or beer. We planned on the trek taking us 8 days to complete, give or take a day. But first we needed to get to Puerto Natales, ... read more
All of the clothes for an 8 day trek
First official picture of the trailhead smelling nice and clean!
Off we go!

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine March 31st 2016

This morning we were picked up for a day trip into the Torres del Paine National Park with guide Eduardo and driver Gregorio. Gregorio proved to be an excellent wildlife spotter and he stopped the minibus on the side of the road on numerous occasions so that we could see eagles, condors, juvenile condors, caracas, a skunk, rheas and guanacos ... all of those before we got into the national park! We stopped at a view point at the end of Lago Sarmiento from which there is a fabulous view of the three granite torres (towers) for which the national park is named. Well, sometimes there is a fabulous view of the towers. Unfortunately this morning they were shrouded in cloud. Although it was very cold this morning it was mainly sunny with only patches of ... read more
Skunk
The cloud shrouded granite towers of Torres Del Paine NP
Towards Torres Del Paine NP

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine March 11th 2016

Another day at sea as we began cruising Canal Sarmiento. Unfortunately the weather remained bleak and the temperature dropped into single figures; so glad now that I lugged my puffer jacket half way around the world!! I broke out the Vegemite this morning to have on my toast for breakfast. I'm trying to eat fairly lightly out of deference to my dodgy digestive system and our travel papers arrived from Bunnick in a wallet that very thoughtfully included some individual serves of Vegemite. I need my guts to have settled down by later today because we have booked in for a degustation dinner in the Pinnacle Grill. We had a long day of cruising today before we arrived at our first point of interest - Paso Summer at 4.00pm. Captain PJ told us earlier in the ... read more
Paso Shoal
USS Riverside
USS Riverside

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine February 28th 2016

Zwei Sonnentage in Punta Arenas fuellten wir mit einem Besuch des Friedhofes, der die Einwanderungsgeschichte der Stadt wiederspiegelt. (Kuriositaet: "Grab der deutschen Krankenkasse") und dem Erwerb eines neuen Telefons fuer Wessel, da das alte einem kaputten Ladegeraet zum Opfer fiel. Sehr spannend, sowohl technisch als auch sprachlich! In Puerto Natales am Fjord Ultima Esperanza haben wir Heidrun's Geburtstag verbracht. Wir liefen zu einem spektakulaeren Hotel, das einst eine Schafsfleischverarbeitungsstation war. Hier wurden Schafe geschlachtet und tiefgefroren nach England verschifft. Das Gebaeude verbindet sehr geschmackvoll seine Geschichte mit einer luxurioes eingerichteten Herberge. Hier nahmen wir ein kleines Mittagessen zu uns. Das richtige Highlight des Tages war aber das Essen im Restaurant Afrigonia. Ein Afrikaner hat es gewagt und die Afrikanische Kueche mit der Patagonisc... read more
Torres del Paine
Lago Nordenskjoeld (in Chile!)
Eigenwillig

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine February 20th 2016

Samedi 20 février, Puerto Natales - Patagonie Simon Un peu de repos ça ne fait pas de mal! On vient de terminer le trek des Torres del Paine, le plus courru de la Patagonie chilienne et apparemment du pays tout entier! Beaucoup de jeunes chiliens sur les chemins, des 18/20 ans surtout, ce trek est une sorte d'examen de passage ici, un rôle initiatique permettant de passer de l'enfance à l'âge adulte... Ayant fait le GR 20 l'été dernier, on abordait cette rando plutôt confiants d'autant que les dénivelés et les distances nous semblaient plutôt raisonnables, c'était sans compter la folle météo patagonienne...!! La Patagonie c'est une sorte d'immense machine à laver, un sèche-linge aussi, le tout à ciel ouvert...! Grosses averses, petites éclaircies et puissantes rafales de vent se succèdent sans cesse si bien qu'on ... read more
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South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine January 26th 2016

Park Map: http://globe-trekking.com/en/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/map_torres_del_paine5web.jpg After Antarctica (See Antarctic Cruise Blogs) we head straight to El Calafate, Argentina, and check out Los Glaciers National Park. This is a beautiful place, but the crème de mint of our Patagonia plans is Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. We take an early morning bus to Puerto Natalas, Chile on the first Wednesday of the new year. This is our home base for hiking in Torres del Paine. Walking to our guesthouse we are really disappointed by the condition of the town. It is really run down, not attractive at all. The parks are dilapidated and dirty. Garbage is on the side of the road. Shaggy stray dogs wander around everywhere. For a place that gets as many tourists as this I was ex... read more
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