Week 8 - Torres del Paine

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"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" FDR 1933.

It would not be an underestimation to suggest that Tracy was somewhat apprehensive about tackling the W trek. A nasty experience in Scotland had spooked her, and left her with a fear of hiking in mountains. Nevertheless, several days ago we boarded a 5am bus from our hostel in El Calafate (Argentina) and headed to southern Chile and our destination - the Torres del Paine national park, biosphere reserve and world heritage site.

The Torres del Paine is considered a highlight of South America. It includes mountains, extinct volcanos, lakes, woodlands and glaciers. Most people who visit hike across the park, although there are several day trips. The two main hikes are the Main Circuit (approx 10 days) and the W trek (4 to 5 days), although there are numerous other options. Tracy and I had signed up to hike the W trek over 5 days. Many people in the park opt to camp, however Tracy and I choose to stay in refugios (basic hostels which serve food). This had the added benefit that we did not have to carry camping gear or our own food! As such we only took the bare essentials. For me (Will) this included: 30L Rucksack, Walking boots, Walking trousers, Moreno base layer, Fleece, Waterproof Jacket, Waterproof trousers, x3 Undies, x3 walking socks and liner socks, Sleeping bag, Trek Towel, Penknife, Compass, Lighter, Whistle, Map, Waterbottle, Long sleeved shirt and flip flops for evenings, Toothbrush and paste, Soap and Deodorant. Not much compared to many. Tracy and I had also invested in a walking stick each which in hindsight was probably the best thing we bought with us.

So after a long 5 hour journey we arrived at the first refugio. On the bus we had met an American couple (Dan and Carin) who were doing the same trek as us; and at the refugio we met an Aussie couple (Lee and Morris) who would also be with us for 3 days. For the early part of the trek we would, for the most part, hike together. We were also periodically (and especially for drinks in the evening) joined by four Germans - Martin, Kristina, Sylvia and Florian.

We awoke on Day 1 at Refugio Las Torres for the longest and hardest day. The blue skys of the day before had given way to rain. As they say in Patagonia - if you want to sunshine, go to the costa del sol. The hike was a return route up to the Mirador de Los Paine. The 8km hike to the mirador takes approx 4.5 hours one way. The start of the hike is a gradual hike up from 78m to 400m, it then is undulating until the last 800m which is a steep 300m uphill. Fortunatly after an hour the rain stopped, although the skys remained grey, they were clear when we reached the top after about 4 hours of walking! After 9 hours we were back at Refugio Las Torres.

Day 2 was a much easier trek from Refugio Las Torres to Refugio Los Curnos although from here onwards we had to carry all our kit, and it pretty much rained the whole day. After a wet 7km we arrived at Los Curnos, just in time for the skies to clear.

Day 3 invloved walking from Los Curnos to Refugio Grande Paine via Valle de Frances. This was another long day of 7 hours hiking and invloved walking up the French Valley (an uphill climb of 800m). The views at the top were however stunning and we had a clear days walk all the way.

We only had a 11km walk on Day 4 and the weather was good all day. The walk was meant to take approx 3.5 hours along a lake to Glacier Grey. We however took our time and eventially reached the Glacier Grey Mirador in 5 hours.

Day 5 was perhaps the most beautiful day. We got up early as Dan and Carin had a boat to catch and walked quickly from Grey to Grande Paine. The early morning light was fantastic and the still day allowed some fantastic views and reflections in the lakes. We arrived back at Refugio Grande Paine after 5 days and approximatly 60km of hiking.

We are now back in El Calafate and about to head back north to wine, Chile and eventially Bolivia and Peru.

Adios amigos xx

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Photos

Our Trekking Group
Morris, Lee, Will, Tracy, Carin and Dan