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Published: November 24th 2009
Here we are all safe and sound in Torres del Paine, we had a great ride up to here yesterday with the whole gang back together, as Mike rejoined us in Punta Arenas. See his blog below.
Cheers, Rosco
Hola,
Its me again back in the land of the living - and the land of the travelling. Most people are aware I fractured my left hand and leg as a result of a get-off on a gravel road.
Luckily same leg as my previously damaged one, albeit in a different place - at least I still only have one gammy leg. The accident after thorough analysis turns out to have been caused by equipment failure.
Unfortunately for my pride and reputation, the equipment that failed was the control line between the grey stuff in my head and my throttle hand.
This is not what I would have wanted on this trip after all the preparation, anticipation and excitement - however it’s a real adventure and they come with risks.
Something good usually comes from something bad and because of the accident I have met two fantastic people in the form of the orthopedic surgeon Jose Luis, (a fellow
Up for repair
On our way to Puerto Natalesmotorcyclist) who bolted me back together, and his V3 wife Estella. Jose speaks little English & I speak little Spanish but we spent a week whilst in hospital in Caleta Olivia Arg. (where no one spoke English at all) conversing with no major misunderstandings.(even operated on the correct leg) Estella came in regularly with a laptop with a translation program on, (she speaks a smattering of English) and I found Word Monkey on the internet which does the same thing.
As Jose said one day via the program, “we are conversing - via the computer this is very amusing” .And at times it was amusing - some things do not translate literally.
He was telling me about some of his travels and I couldn’t quite understand so Estella ran it through the program -apparently he has had some time in Mumbai and was telling me that he loved it but ever since he has been dribbling. I thought he mean’t he had picked up a disease that made him dribble but what he had said was he loved it - he is drooling to go back!
Anyway these two fantastic people took me under their wings even getting a local
Whale monument
This was on the way to Puerto Natales English teacher in a couple of times to make sure I had everything I needed .
I had a new experience having my leg operated on without a general anaesthetic rather a spinal block to numb me from the waist down so I was able to listen to the drilling and the ratchet on the socket etc. (couldn’t recall Spanish for ear plugs)
Take my word for it - it’s a good experience to talk about later but probably best avoided.
Anyway the block worked well didn’t feel a thing, feeling back below my waist around 30 minutes after the operation finished and hardly any pain since -so I am not needing any painkillers.
Jose is quite religious ( I was unaware of this until later- when he told me he has lost four of his children in two separate accidents - 1 a plane crash & the other a road accident and he has turned to God to get him through - could turn anyone religious or insane I would imagine!!) Anyway as I was lying on the work bench ready for the get go he showed me a small picture from his gown pocket of the Madonna. You
can imagine the thoughts going through my head…. I am not really into that stuff and he was trying to reassure me by saying the lord (of adventure motorcycling?) was looking out for me.
But of course I thought to myself all well and good but I hope you are not putting all your faith in the Lord and have had some medical training as well.
Anyway all seems fine and this guy (the most cheerful positive person you would hope to meet) and his wife when they heard on my discharge I wanted to travel to Punta Arenas to meet up with the others, offered to take me (they had been thinking of going as they wanted to do some shopping there, mainly for tools to work on Jose Luis’ motorcycles.
So they gave me a lift down the road - 750kms - 11 hours travel including stops, propped up in the back of their car. They supplied cushions, food and asked regularly if there was anything else I needed.
Not bad service when your surgeon repairs you and delivers you as well.
The trip was long but quite interesting, we saw Guanacos and Nandu several times, a
Cueva Del Milodon
This was one BIG cave guy (Enrico who has been making the news here) asleep on the side of the road under some plastic. Apparently he is walking from Buenos Aires to Punta Arenas around 2600kms. No-one, probably including him, knows why he is doing it but when we saw him having his nap he had travelled about 2200kms so his destination was but a hop skip and a jump down the road!!!
We took a small sightseeing detour to a small town San Julian where there is a replica of the Victoria that was the first ship to arrive from Spain (Magallenes) . Amazingly small (I wouldn’t want to cross the harbour in it) but as we know in those days people were criss-crossing the globe in similar ships. Some pretty rugged history - just down the coast a bit on Tierra del Fuego they put ashore as Magallenes was having a few issues with some of his crew, built a gallows and dispatched a couple of them. The existence of these gallows got around and over the next few years quite a few Capitans put them to good use. Drake frequented these waters for a while but not favouring gallows he dispatched his
Cuvea Del Milodon
From deep inside... troublemakers by beheading them. Paid to put up with the weevils in the biscuits!
San Julian also has a monument to Los Heros da Malvinas (Falklands to us) with a mounted Spitfire flags etc. About here I decided it wasn’t a good time to discuss my English heritage!
Continuing to Punta Arenas via a 50 minute border crossing Argentina to Chile where they even wanted the serial numbers off our laptops and cameras we arrived at 9.30pm to join the others for a belated dinner (although a normal time to dine in Argentina) Jose Luis and Estella receiving a standing ovation for their care of me. After dinner we checked into Hotel Dreams a World class 5 star Hotel.
The next day after farewelling Jose Luis & Estella (They assure me they will see us in NZ - free use of my Moto, free rental car - surgery extra) before they went shopping we picked up our rental ute and driver Mauricio, and headed North West out of Punta Arenas towards Puerto Natales.
This was only a short day today around 240kms although very cold - the guys arrived frozen. I was toasty in the back of the
The Milodon
Bones with the Milodon ute. This was the same road that Keith and I bussed last year before catching the boat for our 4 day fjord cruise to Puerto Montt.
The next morning Sunday we headed for next stop Hotel Rio Serrano just outside the Park Torres del Paine on the way stopping at Cueva del Milodon - a huge cave where they have found Sabre Tooth Tigers and Mastodon remains.
Arriving at the hotel after skirting spectacular lakes, seeing a Condor (biggest bird in the world) swooping over the lake looking for prey, saw the Grey Glacier in the distance then we coffeed, dropped luggage off and the riders left for a ride around the park for the afternoon.
I have positioned myself in the lounge of this luxurious modern hotel at the end of the world (however still with WiFi) which has a magnificent view of Los Andes from every room and the main lounges.
The cloud is clearing and view improving by the minute, the service is great (just ordered a club sandwich for lunch which took 2 waiters to carry to me!) and I am accustoming myself to a style of life to which I aspire. (ignoring the
injuries)
Interesting notes:
Technology in Argentina and Chile is light years ahead of NZ in many ways - every hotel, most gas stations, the hospital I was in and many cafes have free fast broad band internet (we even connected whilst travelling in the middle of nowhere in Jose Luis’ car).
The road infrastructure has to be seen to be believed, Argentina is 9000kms form North to South and everywhere you go roads are being widened, or new ones built - the investment must be ginormous! Not all good news for adventure motorcyclist trying to seek out gravel back country roads.
Obviously Green Peace’s spin doctors have been here as the tourist operators claim the Perito Merino Glacier, which we will see tomorrow, is the only one in the world that is growing.(Global Warming) They obviously haven’t heard about the other 50 plus glaciers in Chile that the glaciologist told us on our boat trip last year were advancing, along with the Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers in NZ.
Road Rules are quite different to NZ. Much is left to the responsibility/intelligence of the drivers rather “You Must.- You Must Not” The speed limits seem to be
Road out of Rock
The road was literally cut out of rock guidelines only - we passed a Police car in Jose Luis’ car doing probably 100km/h in a 80km/h zone (their attitude is unless its unsafe they are not interested).
In the towns there are usually one way road systems marked only be a large white arrow on the road sign.
Give ways are mainly dealt with by way of commonsense if you are small and they are big, best cede right of way if they want it.
Sounds like a recipe for chaos but it is not - I haven’t seen any road rage or bad driving, people seem more polite on the road and in less of a hurry to push in front in traffic.
The people seem genuinely caring and interested in your welfare.
In hospital one nurse did all my washing for me and bought coffee and biscuits in, the Security guard from the main entrance came upstairs and checked on me twice a day to see if I needed anything and even sent 2 English speaking Mormons to see me as he knew I was starved of English speaking company!
The only negative in Argentina is their attitude to rubbish - they just seem
to ignore it unless they are adding to it.
Onwards to Perito Moreno tomorrow
Hasta Pronto
Mike V
Another blog from Bones...
Welcoming Michael back into our midst presented a few challenges, which were met head on, no problemo! No doubt there will be a blog from him from his perspective, needless to say we are very glad to have him rejoin the expedition, even though he now travels in a rented ute with his own driver, Mauricio from Punta Arenas, a racy wheelchair on the back, and enough cushions to make him comfortable along the back seat, he must think he’s in some sort of mobile hotel room!
The ‘rest’day in Punta Arenas was spent, by Rosco and Gerardo, along with the Vinsen boys, preparing for Michael’s return and his travelling requirements. We are all very grateful to Gerardo and his efficient way of solving any logistical challenges that present themselves - most of us are learning a few words of Spanish (depending on what we want!) but we would be floundering without our Chilean amigo!
Speaking for myself, I finished my book, visited the local Mercado (supermarket) to stock up on
Lunch
Lunch time at the old folks home... truck snacks, and spent some time in the well appointed gym and the infinity pool - and managed to book a massage early the next day. I am learning Spanish by watching movies in English with Spanish subtitles, and reading food labels in supermarkets!
We booked a 6 hour internet session that evening and published the last blog, as well as connecting to Skype to wish our daughter, Christine,a Happy Birthday (at 12.30am our time!) I think we finally hit the hay at 1.30am, probably not much before all the boys who were celebrating Michael’s return in a nearby restaurant!
The next morning, we left in two or three groups - by the time Michael’s transport and driver had arrived, it was 2pm - we headed for Puerto Natales 260kms away.
We swept the day sheet route that had a metal section to Rio Verde, just in case anyone was still out there, and caught up with Gerardo back on Ruta 9.
Found our hosteria (quite a contrast to the swanky casino in Punta Arenas, but nevertheless, comfortable and sufficient for our needs overnight (I think Michael must have parked his wheelchair in the hall!). It was
Keith
At Torres del Paine quite a sight to see his brothers manhandling the wheelchair and Michael up the stairs to the lounge for the briefing………………….
Tom was awarded the Medal for being the only rider to cover the entire route on the Day Sheet (and then some!) - maybe he was trying to top his horse riding experience?
Day 21 - Puerto Natales - Parque Torres del Paine
One of the highlights of the expedition had to be today’s ride.
We left Puerto Natales at 8.30am and our first stop was the Cueva del Milodon.
Hard to describe a gigantic cave (perhaps the photos taken will do it more justice), but suffice to say we all felt totally insignificant following the path through the huge cave.
Housing primitive Patagonian man, land hunters belonging to the Paleoindian culture, 9 - 12,000 years ago. In 1895, a piece of skin was discovered that belonged to an extinct animal, the Milodon (giant sloth). There are several theories about what actually occurred during this time, but imagine a cave approx. 200 metres deep, 30 metres high and 90 metres wide, that was scoured out by wave activity over a very long time, let your imagination run riot
The boys
At Torres del Paine (it helped having read the Jean Auel novels - I could imagine a whole clan living there!) Quite mindblowing…………….
Onwards through every increasing views of the ice capped mountains of Torres del Paine to our hotel just outside the perimeter of the parque. We are staying at Hotel Rio Serrano, where we jettisoned our luggage, and spent the afternoon touring the magnificent scenery.
I am not attempting to put what we have seen into words, (I am writing this looking out of our hotel window which is framing the late afternoon view of the main peaks) just the weather was very kind, and the clouds staying almost away from the mountains.
Zane won the medal today, for riding his moto onto restricted areas of the park ..and getting caught !! and also for riding in a drain!!
Will hand over the computer so Rosco can load some of the photos he took today!
Hasta Luego - Bones
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Vicki
non-member comment
A big thank you!
A huge thank you from me to Rosco, Gerardo, Raewyn, Vinsonio brothers and anyone else involved in Michael's repatriation to the Moto group. Can only imagine the logistics involved in finding a suitable vehicle and driver, wheelchair, etc needed for him to continue. xx