The birdman village

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Another historical mystery of Rapa Nui is the birdman cult. After the moai had lost their meaning and warfair broke out among the clans a new cult arose. Every year a birdman was picked who would rule the island's society. Thus peace could be re-established.

The sacret place for the rituals of the birdman cult can still be visited today. And what a place! At the rim of the crater Rano Kau the Rapa Nui built a small village called Orongo. On one side you look into the collapsed crater of the volcano, 200 metres deep and filled with water. Its steep walls encircle about 1,5 kilometre and open up on one side to the open ocean.

On the other side of the crater rim the cliff drops right into the sea, about 300 metres deep. 1,5 kilometres from the coast there are three small islands of rough lava stone. When the new birdman had to be picked every clan sent a swimmer to the largest of these islands. On a bundle of reed he would swim from the foot of the crater to the island, climb up the cliffs and wait there with his competitors until the seabirds would nest and lay their very first egg. Having found the egg he would swim back to the shore, climb up the outer wall of the crater and deliver the egg to the chief of his clan who waited in Orongo village. The chief became then the birdman for one year until the egg had lost its power.

The story alone is interesting but being at the actual place is absolutely amazing. The first time we came to Rano Kau it was rainy and foggy so we could hardly see the other side of the crater. Nevertheless the place made a big impression on us and we had to come back. The second time the sight was fantastic and it was now the site could do its full magic on us. To stand on the crater rim and look down on the islets with the endless ocean as a background was an experience for life.

Later we also had the chance to approach the islets by water. With a motorboat we went out to Motu Nui, the largest one, for diving. From the sea we realised how high up the village actually is and what an unbelievable quest the ancient swimmers gave themselves into.

It is said that a lot of sharks lived around the islets in former times. Today they are gone. Nevertheless there is plenty of life. The islets get larger under water until they finally connect with each other and the main island. The sight under water is the best in the world, 30 metres that day. So guess that we found it hard to leave this amazing place.

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