Blogs from Coquimbo Region, Chile, South America

To the north of Valparaíso begins El Norte. As in the south of Chile, such is the extent of this stretched-out region that it needs subdividing: Norte Chico (the little north), giving way to the Norte Grande (the big north), with some people even referring to a Norte Extremo even further up. We've definitely been dawdling. Such has been the attraction of the south that we've almost forgotten than there's a whole other half-Chile waiting to be disovered beyond Santiago. On arrival in the far south we were given a standard 90-day stamp in our passports, of which we've spent over 60 already. This leaves us barely a month to cover the two thousand kilometres which separate Valparaíso from Arica, Chile's most northerly town, almost sitting on the Peruvian border. A slight upping of the pace ... read more

Good Friday was drawing to a close and under a cloudless sky a full moon was to rise from behind the mountains. Decided to grab a bit to eat and visit the off licence for a bottle of wine to drink with some friends around the pool. Going to have an early night as tomorrow have to be up early as going to the thermals. On the way out bump into Paul, who works at the hostel. From Barcelona, he is a very friendly guy, long black hair with a piercing through the bridge of his nose. He informs me that at the bar I call 'The Fire Bar', but is actually called El Rustica, some live traditional music will be playing tonight. He will be there watching. "Sounds good. See you there". Meet Anita and ... read more

So, I have returned to Pisco Elqui as I like it here.got up early today to see the sunrise over the Andes. Sat with a coffee and fag as it slowly presents itself. From darkness to light. Wonderful.Peaceful. All is good with the world. My credit cards are somewhere over the Atlantic en route to me. Some random thoughts about Chile before I explain how I fell into a cactus. Chile. A country the Shape of a chili. I am warm under the sun and so not chilly. Dominated by the Andes, making it hilly. Trying to speak Spanish, sounding silly. Jose-pinto my Chiloe horse, a colt not a filly, Me mucho gusto Chile. Oh, and Chile also rhymes with willy. So, how did I manage to fall into a cuctus? I suppose if I was ... read more

Book I am reading. Alex Cross's Trail by James Patterson. A true story about the events of lynching in the deep south and one mans campaign against it. Compelling and tearful reading. . I am writing this sat under a cloudless sky by a hostel swimming pool. It is 8.45am. All around there are the mountains of the Andes, in every conceivable shade of brown. The green of the garden in which I am sat is a stark contrast reminding me that I am between the desert of the north and the fertile soil of the south. It is very peaceful with only the sound of a cockerel breaking the silence as he welcomes a new day. Yesterday I finally managed to speak to a manager at my bank. My cards have now been cancelled again ... read more

After I had left Herb & Ron I headed back into Copiapo, to the main plaza, Plaza Prat. I had decided I couldn't be bothered to ride up the Rio Copiapo valley to see some grapes. I would rather look round the museum. I pulled up in the space reserved for "motos" that Herb & I caught up with Ron earlier that morning. The museum was a short walk round the corner but it was closed. I wasn't too surprosed as it was nearly 3 pm and everywhere was still shut. The sign on the gate seemed to suggested it opened again at 3.30 so I headed back to the square. Opposite the bike was a pleasant little cafe that had out door seating and was open. I took Ron's advice. The best place is where ... read more