Even in the quietest moments

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Am sat in the bus to Antofagasta, six hours north following the Pan American highway along the coast all the way there.My intention is to stay the weekend, say hi to Janet, who I met in Santiago, have a look round and then head to San Pedro de Atacama Monday. Trouble is I booked the window seat on the opposite side of the bus so instead of the view being the mighty south pacific rolling into the desert shore, my view is a whole heap of nothing. Just desert, and lots of it, interspersed with the odd cardboard built house and other similarity impressive constructions. Time to catch up on my book.
Leaving the village we drive past the stinking osiones factory in the dusty portside industrial estate. Memories of my nutty collectivo driver flood back. Deja vu indeed. Great day with great people.

Chile Express came though and my package arrived. Victoria, Andy's mum put a new spanish-english dictionary in aswell. This means I can now order with confidence in restaurants again. Fed up eating Pollo.
It was with some trepidation then that I walked to the ATM at a bank with my new cards the following morning. I could have used one in a local chemist but it seemed a sensible idea to try them out in a bank. Even in a small town like Caldera, nestling on the edge of the desert, the ATM will be liinked into the might of the worlds financial system. The arrival of the new cards from the UK to Santiago, and then transfer to Chile Express had gone like clockwork, an international bank in town with shiny new cash machines. What could possibly go wrong?
Deep down I knew I was due another kick in the balls from the wanking system as I made my way there dressed in my flip flops, shorts and hat.
I had received one new PIN for my debit card even though, when I finally sorted this #ing mess out some three weeks ago, I asked to keep my same numbers, and was assured they would not change.
So let's try the credit card first as that is the card that does not cost me to withdraw money. Punched in 1234, sorry incorrect. Enter again 1234 Still wrong. Strange. Getting concerned here. Tried the new debit card PIN with the credit card. Last chance was displayed then it would be blocked. 5678. A whirr of cash being counted and then, for the first time in almost four weeks had access to my own cash. So my debit PIN operates my credit card. This is South America reaches the UK. We are all doomed.
So my back up debit card must have the same PIN as before. Tried it out. Guess what. Entered my old PIN twice and it was rejected. One last try with the new PIN that was for my debit card but actually worked on my credit card. Sorry, you card has now been blocked please contact your bank. Agrhhhhhhh.
I give up. A new PIN for my debit card that actually works on my credit card, but my backup card us now blocked. # ing great! Security guards were forming around me having watched me try several times with two cards to get money out of their machine, looking nervous and sweating in the sun as I finally lost my cool shouting at the #ing machine and cursing the entire #ing banking world. I may be retired but I am still trapped in their system... Forever!!!
I am glad the guards were there though because I swear I would have launched the ATM though the front window. Instead I smiled at them and sulked away. Living out of a rucksack for months and visiting new lands is great but at that point if I could have teleported back to the UK I would have.
So called the bank. They explained that both my debit card and credit card PINs had been changed and my backup card was now blocked as the wrong PIN had been entered three times. " did you not receive them both?"
At this point I will just write "NO". I will leave it to your furtile imaginations to fill in the rest of the conversation.
So, my backup card has been unblocked but a new PIN needs to be issued.
At least I can access my cash via credit card again so I suppose must be grateful for small mercies.
To those reading this blog who might be thinking of travelling:
1.Sew your passport and credit cards into your skin.
2. Keep your back up card separate from everything else hidden in separate bag.
3. Scan a copy of your passport into your computer and then email it to yourself. You will always have a secure copy.
4. Try and cope with just your rucksack rather than having a day bag too. If you do use a day bag on the bus keep at your feet at all times.
5. Always travel on the bus with trousers that have plenty of pockets that zip up.
6. Hope you meet someone as kind as Andy and his family before it happens.
You have no idea what it is like to lose everything 10,000km from home until it actually happens.
Disco out.
Yesterday bade farewell to Bahia Inglesa and Anita. She is travelling south to Vin del Mer to see Ciro. Dropped by cafe 'punto referencia' for some lunch and our thanks for the BBQ invite last night.
Spent the evening chatting to Marcelo and Dominica the hostel owners. He has an amazing collection of LP,s including original Beatles albums. Abbey Road, Revolver etc. Put them on, and chatted spanlish over a few glasses of wine. Perfecto.
This morning (friday) it is Marcelo's 40th birthday. Found a Supertramp album that I have not heard for years. 'Even in the quietest moments'.
Brings back happy memories for me. The first time I heard this album I was 17yrs old and had just sailed a 72' Bermudan Ketch from the Hamble River, around the Isle of Wight to Calais. There were sixteen of us on the boat and when we landed in Calais it was a beautiful summers day. Stowed everything away and then it was G&T time.Someone had this album on cassette tape (remember them?). Loved the album then and this morning, sat over breakfast with similar weather,love it still. Don't understand why I do not have it on my MP3 player. Will have to rectify that, once debit card is activated!
So up into the desert we travel leaving the coast. The great Pan American highway weaves its way up and though the hills of the vast emptiness of the Atacama desert, one of the driest places on earth. A desert where rain hasn't fallen in some places ever. The bus pulls over. Trouble ahead?
Sat watching the film on the bus I had not noticed the sun now hidden by mist and cloud. The guy sat next to me nudged me as he was as shocked as I was. It started to piss down. Not your normal rain. It was torential. Lashing rain onto the now stationary bus. A huge clap of thunder as if the Gods themselves was shouting.
It's no so wonder the Incas worshipped the sungods and thought they were very angry when there was thunder and lightening.
But within ten minutes is all over and off we set. An hour or so later the bus manager gives us our bag of food. A bit like an aeroplane meal except its a cheese roll and drink, on a bus. I don't often eat puddings but really fancied one now as still peckish and hoping we would hit a town to stop doon.
But as far as I can see from the top deck of the bus there is nothing but sand. Mile upon mile of dust. Sandy mountains sandy desert floor. No houses, no buildings, no mines. No sign of life at all. All about is dust. Not a single bush or tree. Lifeless. Doesn't look like we will be stopping for a break for long time.
Suddenly the bus pulls over,stops and the doors open.
"Helados, Helados!" shouts a man as he embarks the bus.
" ice cream, ice cream".
Amazing. We are in the middle of #ing nowhere and we have stopped for the ice cream seller. Dressed in a high visibity jacket and sun hat he has a large wooden cool box which as be designed to fit down the aisle of the bus.
"cuanto es"
He holds up four fingers.
"I'll take one".
And with that the bus pulled over again and he was gone, my fellow passengers and I happily munching on our lollies, our desserts in the desert.
Amazing, even in the quietest and lifeless of moments the ingenuity some folks.
Disco out.

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