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Published: November 28th 2009
El Chalten
Mount Fitzroy 3405mHere we are in Coihaique, all safe and sound JUST !.
We have had a very interesting and challenging past few days, battling the Patagonia winds on the infamous Ruta 40 and the challenging road and winds along the Lago General Carrera, with more than one rider blown off his moto.
Below are more detailed accounts of what has transpired...
Blog from Mike V....
Hola otra vez,
Left Rio Serrano on a stunningly clear but cool morning heading South back past Lago del Toro.
Breathtaking vista of lakes & sheer snow capped mountains as we bumped across fantastic motorcycling gravel roads albeit at a slow pace as today the plan was to ride in a group and look for Condors (if we disturbed them we would all be there to see them fly), the plan went astray when one person couldn’t wait for the group , disturbed them and was then only one to see them fly - guess who (no clues).
After a couple of cows tried to take Tom out on my bike (my deer whistle saved him at the last moment) we spotted a group of Condors sitting on a small hillock.
In spite of noisey attempts
El Chalten
Poor old 2CV to get them to fly there were limited photo opportunities as they just stared back at us - I guess waiting for us to die and lie down so they could have a feed. ( we could have just laid Mike out there, I s'pose ! - Rosco)
Turning left and east towards the border town Cerro Castillo (Frontera Chile/Argentinia) to gas up before the next leg.
Unfortunately the solo pump was out of gas and the tanker was not expected for some hours. Decision made to press on, we crossed the frontera out of Chile quite quickly (30 minutes) the utes’ paperwork seemingly takes the longest to deal with.
10kms up the road the frontera into Argentina.
Customs guy here blatantly asks for a bribe (although wants it in stickers or badges) More Kiwi Rider and Kiwi emblems in a far flung outpost.
Rosco gave the guy a Police Badge so as a swap the officer peeled his Argentinian Customs badge off his uniform and gave to Rosco - I guess this means its not a real bribe just a trade.
Continued now heading North East to a sealed road and then gassed up before turning left onto
Ruta 40
The Highway the iconic Ruta 40. (Some male blindness here as 3 of the riders continued on missing both the gas stop and the Ruta 40 turnoff both of which were both in plain view) Fortunately David chased them down and bought them back..
Ruta 40 for 70kms varied between smooth gravel, freshly graded gravel and really lumpy gravel.
Reached Ruta 5 after the only excitement being Zane looking like a target for a couple of sheep deciding to run towards the noise that scared them rather than away.
At this Ruta 5 junction (El Cerrito) we turned north for the sealed 92km run into El Calafate. Passing a brilliantly azure Lago Argentino for many of the kms leading into town, we entered this bustling tourist filled main street that looks a bit like Hanmer, sidewalk cafes, banks, tourist shops, hotels etc. However once off this street, to find our hotel - dusty bumpy tracks. After some aimless circling (aka lost) we found the hotel only to find we had been transferred to another due to no power in our original booking.
The new hotel is a comfortable establishment with a large lounge with, once again panoramic views of the lake
The wheel fell off
"You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel" Made famous by Kenny Rogers, immortalized by Mike V. and snow capped mountains.
The life of an adventure motorcyclist sure is a tough one!
After a lunch in the township the group have disappeared up the road 70kms to visit the Perito Moreno glacier, back for dinner.
El Calafate to El Chalten
Retracing our route that we came in on yesterday before picking up Ruta 23 heading West to El Chalten. This was uneventful but km after km of spectacular scenery with sheer cliffs capped by snow and even a glacier feeding down into Lago Viedma which we were alongside for considerable kms.
This road to El Chalten headed for Mt Fitz Roy, the tallest of all the nearby mountains which this adventure town was at the base of.
This is a steep sharp peak with sheer sides, snow on the peak - spectacular rugged scenery.
El Chalten is a tramping and mountaineering town only around 12 years old and quite small - however population probably quadruples each night as people return from trekking, climbing etc.
Our digs are comfortable, no cell phone reception out here but as usual broadband wireless internet!.
Good view of Mt Fitz Roy from our bedroom window. Keith wins the medal today
Ruta 40
Ok, so the wheel fell !! for three feats two best not mention but let’s say it was for the third which was finding a great café en route.
El Chalten - Perito Moreno
Never a dull moment in adventure motorcycling and as they say expect the unexpected.
Today’s biggest surprise was definitely in this category. This was to be a huge day 600kms on Ruta 40, 400kms of which was on gravel. Firstly we retraced from El Chalten past the lake and glacier to rejoin the iconic Ruta 40. Plain sailing to the first town Tres Lagos (Three Lakes) where we had to get gas as after this the next gas was 340kms away.
After a bit of aimless circling of the town we got instructions and found the gas station tucked down a side road on the approaches we had just passed. No signs but I guess when you have the only gas for 340kms - why spend money advertising!
After leaving here we were on Ruta 40. It lived up to its fame, thick gravel interspersed with some smooth patches - but the big issue here was the cross wind or more accurately cross gale. This was blowing with such force the
riders were literally struggling to stay on the road.
The roads here are built up around 1- 2 metres from the surrounding countryside so Ian got the bright idea of dropping off the road and riding the scree area besides and in the lea of the road. This seemed to work ok.
After an hour or so we stopped for a regroup to find the front left tyre on my ute going flat.
We were carrying a portable compressor so we dealt with this only to have to stop every 20 to 30kms to reinflate.
After a few repeats of this we were getting prepared to put a spare on when to the surprise of Mauricio (my driver) and myself, the back left wheel overtook the ute and was heading for Perito Moreno with about 20km/hr on us as we dragged along the ground.
The rear of the ute was trying to overtake the front, but Mauricio did a sterling job keeping things under control for which he later won the days medal.
We had just had new tyres fitted in Punta Arenas before we left - bloody tyre shops and badly adjusted rattle guns!!!!!!!
Having experienced this once before
Ruta 40
Cloud formations were great in Australia 35 years ago - also after a new tyre fitting, I knew exactly what to do. (Frizz if you are reading this- talk about déjà-vue)
The brake cylinder had disintegrated, the backing plate and hub were very munted and the studs bent with one missing.
The brake shoes were nowhere to be seen. After recovering the wheel from 150m down the road and with help from Rosco and Tom who had both arrived, we crimped the brake hose with the help of a rock (3 wheel brakes are plenty) restraightened the remaining studs retapped the threads with one nut off each of the other wheels and refitted the wheel for the remaining 180kms.
Two offs today - both minor Richard and Barry both dropped their bikes at slow speed - Richard got away scot free, Barry a bruised knee.
We arrived at Perito Moreno with Tom following us in a couple of hours later, as he detoured to visit the Cueva de las Manos (cave of the hands)- apparentely worth visiting as they are adorned with ancient graffiti - Tom is from Luxembourg so this sight was no doubt unusual for him.
However, we can see stuff
The worst sandwich
Ian and Richard discussing the worst lunch of the adventure like this any day of the week by driving through South Auckland.
Perito Moreno to Puerto Guadal
This was a short day - just under 190kms but very interesting.
I was focused on having a less exciting day than yesterday as crawling under a ute on a gravel road with the wind howling, wearing a leg splint and plaster on my arm I thought was enough excitement for a few days. However no such luck.
Before I even left my room in this comfortable but worn hotel I was mid-ablutions in the bathroom when the porcelain toilet cistern fell off the wall shattering on the tile floor and proceeded to flood the whole room before anyone could locate the tap.
This sorted, and as we had a late start I had a leg check and redress and a Dr pronounced it all “perfecto” at the local hospital so all that stuff seems to going along ok.
Leaving Perito Moreno around 10am we headed West towards Los Antiguos for a coffee stop- 60km trip alongside the beautiful Lago Buenos Airies - the wind was so strong you could have surfed on the waves but spectacular (that word again) scenery.
Bridge Ruta 40
The new Ruta 40 highway will bypass this gem A couple of kms up the road the border crossing out of Argentina.
This was quick and efficient unlike a further few kms on where the border crossing into Chile was slower as SAG (MAF) were intent on ensuring we didn’t smuggle any food or fruit in.
Richard had his packet of prunes confiscated so we are not sure how he is going to go without them.
After crossing into Chile, lunch in the small town of Chile Chico we left for the remaining 120kms to our next stop at Puerto Guadal.
The road started off as a great smooth hard packed gravel road - the type I love!. However before too long we were climbing on a narrow winding road which had been cut out of the cliff.
At times there were 100s of metres of sheer drop on the right hand side of the road down to the lake - the other side framed with high snow capped mountains. This regions “road of death”.
The guys reckon this was one of the most challenging and exciting roads they have covered.
It varied from high points 100s of metres above the lake dropping to lake level. An extra
A dog's best friend
Keith really does like (some) dogs... challenge was the wind which got the best of Ian and blew him off his bike.
Minor damage and no injuries so another cheap experience.
Arriving in Puerto Guadal we find our accommodation is a lodge with individual chalets on a hillside overlooking the lake - superb.
Hasta Pronto
Hasta Luego
Mike V
More Blog from Gerardo....
Hola, después de haber pasado dos días en Punta Arenas y no haberlos aprovechado mucho, ya que tuvimos hartas actividades de reparaciones en las motos, pero el resto aprovecho el descanso en el Hotel Dreams, donde utilizaron la piscina y sauna, quedaron extasiados con la primera y que Mike se reintegrara al grupo, esta vez con una pierna operada y una muñeca con yeso, que valentía y perseverancia, nos va acompañar todo el viaje en una camioneta arrendada, por supuesto con un chofer ( Mauricio Vicencio), para todos es una felicidad que nos acompañe, es una lastima lo ocurrido, pero estos son los imponderables de las motos. Aproveche a asistir a la licenciatura de Kevin, ya no me quedan más hijos en el colegio, estaré poniendo viejo, no creo.
El sábado partí a Puerto Natales, con un día típico, nublado,
Barry
Checking the moto after Ruta 40 con chubascos, algo de viento, por consiguiente frío, pero todo se ve reducido por los calienta puños, pero me dio frío, por lo que pase al Hotel Rubens a tomar un café, donde me lo sirvió Raúl Lira, dueño del lugar, todo bien, alojamos en el Hotel Eberhard, donde fuimos muy bien atendidos...
El Domingo, salimos a las 9 con destino a Cueva del Milodon y Torres del Paine, con un día igual que el anterior, pero con menos frío y sin lluvia, llegamos al parque por el nuevo camino, mas corto y mucho más bonito, pasando por Río Rincón, donde nos detuvimos y les comente lo que mi padre construyo junto unos amigos, un camino y cabaña que ahora están abandonadas, para luego llegar al Hotel de un amigo Jaime Arancibia, Hotel Río Serrano, espectacular, un orgullo para uno tener amigos tan poderosos y con tan buen gusto, me paso lo mismo en San Pedro de Atacama con el de Andrés Maclean, excelente atención y con una vista paradisíaca al Paine, visitamos el Greys, pero como alguien dijo no hicimos la caminata, ya que si nos gustara caminar no andaríamos en moto, sino que fuimos a verlo del Hotel
Tenere
Ruta 40 damage only skin deep. Lago Greys, donde tomamos un café con sándwich, el Paine semicubierto, pero aceptable, nadie podía sentirse que no lo había visto, pero esa noche como a las 9 se despejo totalmente y se pudo ver completo, una maravilla.
Al día siguiente Lunes, el día amaneció despejado, típico de Patagonia, escarcho, lo cual pronostica a lo menos 3 días buenos y después el fin del mundo, o sea lo de siempre viento y frío. Con un Paine espectacular a las 8 salimos después de haber pasado una excelente estadía en tan maravilloso Hotel, pudimos ver cóndores en el camino por Castillo viejo, fue como si lo hubiera programado, un animal muerto cercano al camino y lleno de cóndores y comiendo, un espectáculo que debiera ser mejor aprovechado para turistas, ya que después de ver lo que hacen en valle de Colca en Perú, donde ves 4 cóndores volando a una altura de 500 metros y hay 500 personas observando, esto es lo máximo, habría que agradecerle a Oreste Bonicioli el haber facilitado el animal muerto. Llegamos a Cerro Castillo, donde no había combustible, un problema no esperado. El cruce de la frontera del lado chileno, rapidísimo tanto Investigaciones, aduana y por
Gerardo and Rosco
Is your chain OK? supuesto el SAG, ya que salíamos del país, el lado argentino, lento, pero con sus particularidades que hacen d esto una aventura, un gendarme nos pide adhesivos o insignias de nuestro grupo, se las damos, pero Rosco rompe el esquema le entrega una insignia de la Policía de nueva Zelandia, que lógicamente no es original y el gendarme en un hecho increíble se saca su insignia del uniforme y se la regala, créanlo porque es cierto, llegamos a Calafate con un día espectacular, pero igual con frío, que en la tarde mejoro la temperatura., pero con una novedad, el hotel que tenia reservado de hace 5 meses, no podia recibirnos por no tener electricidad, ellos nos buscaron un reemplazo que resulto ser muy bueno el Frai Toluca Hotel y su propietario muy simpatico y amigable, Luis Laurelli, que habia vivido 6 años en Suiza y hablaba un fluido frances que practico con Tom, que domina varios idiomas como ser ingles y aleman. El ventisquero espectacular fuimos en la tarde, hace 22 años que no venia a Calafate, han hecho un gran trabajo en el Parque, realmente bueno, bien pagado los $ 60 pesos argentinos de entrada, ya todo asfaltado desde
El Calafate.
El Martes 24 a las 9.30 partimos con destino Chalten, todo asfaltado, paramos a tomar un café con diferentes dulces donde menos lo esperas, en medio de la nada, donde dos chicos argentinos muy amigables instalaron este lugar con un nombre muy extraño Luz Divina, a su vez nos mostraron su nuevo local que estan arreglando, con muy buen gusto, realmente todo el que pase por esta ruta la mitica 40, debería pasar, no se va arrepentir, buena comida, rapida atención y personas muy amigables donde da gusto cooperarles.
El camino hacia Chalten, cuando ya estas a 40 kms de esa espectacular, saque varias fotos del Monte Fitzroy, y con un dia espectacular sin una nube sin viento y por segunda vez en el viaje no use el calentador de puños de mi moto, el primero fue el día de Las Grutas a Puerto Madryn, precioso el paisaje y el pueblo muy pintoresco con no mas de 1000 habitantes, pero con hartos turistas. Llegamos como a las 13, dejamos nuestras cosas en el Hotel Laguna del Desierto, que nombre no, y en la tarde con Keith y Barry fuimos hacia la Laguna del Desierto que esta a
Lago Genral Carrera
Our Lunch stop at Chile Chico 48 km del pueblo, un paisaje espectacular, pero no pudimos llegar al final en el km 38 estaba cerrada la ruta con una cadena pero valió la pena, se atraviesa un bosque de lengas junto a u río, donde respiras ese perfume que emiten dichos árboles y que refleja lo que es Patagonia. Y deseo reflexionar y ojala que alguna vez se pueda hacer realidad y que Patagonia sea un país o tal vez que no existan países, ya que solo divide, Patagonia es una Región muy diferente, con un clima que la caracteriza, caluroso en verano en el norte y frío siempre en el sur, pero siempre presente el viento que seca todo, y como tampoco llueve mucho, el color café claro domina el paisaje, su gente muy diferente, ama su entorno por sus bellezas naturales y por su arraigo que ha sido transmitido generación tras generación de nuestros abuelos, que eligieron esta zona para formar familia, y Patagonia no es Chile ni Argentina, es diferente, que tengo en común con la gente mala del norte, y ya existe una bandera, la de Magallanes, que lejos representa lo que es Patagonia.
Bueno para terminar, hoy en la tarde
todos nerviosos, mañana 590 kilómetros de la Ruta 40, desde Chalten a Perito Moreno, mas de 300 kilómetros en ripio y profundo, nada bueno para nosotros, hoy nos hemos ido a nuestras habitaciones mucho mas temprano, ya a las 8.30 y sin trago, la tensión y excitación se respira, ojala no tengamos accidentes graves y todos lleguemos orgullosos a destino, son tantas las historias de esta ruta escrita por motociclistas, espero mañana escribir de la felicidad que significo atravesarla, chaoooooooooo hasta pronto.
Gerardo.
Another blog from Bones.....
24 November
(A frustrating couple of days ensued - computer wise - where the internet was exceedingly slow, and our spare (?) time was spent trying to upload photos to the blog to no avail (I think Rosco was about to throw the laptop out of several windows during this time!) Eating meals in restaurants/cafes only with WIFI signs outside, limits one’s choices in the search for something more than a queso and jamon sandwich!)
However, here I am, with a spare 30 minutes before we depart on Day 23 - El Calafate to El Chalten. Yesterday we crossed the border back into Argentina and made our way to El
Calafate, travelling from the spectacular Torres del Paine, across a huge plain and onto the next section of the Andes mountain range which has at it’s heart, the Perito Moreno glacier. We made good time at the border crossing at Cerro Castillo, after discovering the usual gasoline stop (where the fuel is pumped manually from a tiny shed) was empty.
We all regrouped on the Argentinian side at Tapi Aike - Zane, Ian and Richard were so keen to reach our destination that they sailed right past, up a hill and out of sight! David chased and rounded them up, as the next place was Esperanza, some 80km on, and there would have been fuel issues, for sure…………..
A challenging 67km. of various grades of gravel ranging from round river stones to bare base course, rejoining Ruta 5 at El Cerrito, and onto El Calafate. Located our hosteria,
only to be told that they had no electricity (owner conveying with wild gesticulations that a guest had an ‘accident’). A hurried consultation, and we were off down the road to an
alternative hosteria, which turned out to be very comfortable, with a gracious host.
We dumped our luggage (rooms
not available at such short notice) and headed downtown for sustenance before heading out to the Perito Merino Glacier 70kms. Southwest - almost back to the border. A very scenic ride on a beautiful highway, and an easy walk down to almost touching distance of the glacier. We kept hearing rumbles like thunder and cracking sounds as we worked our way down the steel staircase (an engineering feat in itself) and by the time we had reached one of the many viewing platforms, I thought we had missed any action, but we were treated to the awesome sight of several huge chunks of ice breaking off the front of the glacier into the frigid waters below. Just amazing! Also a little scary standing so close to so much contained energy - the noises coming from within the huge meringue-like frozen river were testament that nature is well and truly in charge - we are only spectators………………..Rosco managed to video one of the huge pieces exploding into the water before we finally turned our backs to make our way back to the car park and the ride back to El Calafate.
Some facts from the brochure “A white giant, the Moreno
glacier offers a fantastic spectacle. From its 5 kilometre front which rises 60 metres above the water, great masses of ice crash into Lake Argentino with resounding roars.”
The Medal was awarded to David for not heeding instructions regarding condors (the mind boggles, doesn’t it?)
Day 23 - Calafate - El Chalten. A mere 208 km, an easy ride with ice capped mountains
along the route, watched over by Mt. Fitzroy. The riders found a café at the 100km mark - Luz Davina, which is gearing up for backpackers, motor homes and buses passing through. After a cake and coffee morning tea, the establishment was duly ‘stickered’ and a note made for a return visit - one day!
Arrived in El Chalten, which is a wee town situated at the base of Mt. Fitzroy and adjoining smaller peaks and services the trekkers in the area. Typical Argentinian town, footpaths that have to be seen to be believed (if they exist at all) - we saw today, a steel guy wire smack in the middle of a footpath on a corner! And no-one seems to have heard of landscaping - anything! The entrance to the small Supermercado
was rough concrete and stones - no steps. The ever present dogs cruising the streets are fascinating to me - they have a kind of status in the community - cars slow for them, even though most dogs harrass and chase the cars in packs. None appear to be starving, and most are in good condition. They sleep where they like, most favouring shop doorways, and people just move around them. A peaceful co-existence, it seems. (Except for when Keith is around!)
Our hosteria was comfortable, but had to take the prize for the smallest bathroom - one person at a time, and a shower half the usual sq. metre! When the door was open, the toilet was completely hidden……………….
We had a restful afternoon exploring the town and most are having an early night, in preparation for a big day tomorrow, 590km on Ruta 40 to Perito Moreno.
Keith was unanimously awarded the medal for surviving 2 U turns, finding the café for coffee, and continuing his mission of showing South American dogs who’s Boss!
Day 24 - Chalten - Perito Moreno
A 7.30am start, starting with a backtrack alongside Lago Viedma, with a quick
view of the glacier in the distance. A refuel at Tres Lagos, then approx. 200km of metal Ruta 40, plus the relentless Patagonia wind, past Lago Cardiel and turning north past Tamel Aike, where we caught up with Barry, Keith, Ian and Tom who were having a ‘picnic’ in the shelter of a large pile of rocks. No café today! We were informed that Michael’s truck had a slow leak in the front left tyre, but weren’t prepared for what we came across further up Ruta 40 - Michael, Mauricio and Tom wrestling with the rear left wheel, which had come off! I’m sure Michael has a more intimate version of what happened…………I took lots of photos, Rosco took more skin off his hand and a lot of cursing was probably contained in my presence! 45 minutes later, we were back on the road again, checking the wheel studs 5km down the road, and proceeding very gingerly to Bajo Caracoles, where we joined the others for refuelling and more changing of truck tyres.
Onward towards our destination, it was both exciting and disappointing to see a new road being formed - maybe the next Patagonian expedition will have to
Three Likely lads
David, Mike and Ian look for more gravel roads elsewhere! Ruta 40 may become a super highway, but not such a challenge for adventure riders…………………….at our briefing for the following day, we toasted each other for meeting the challenge of the long day, with only minor mishaps, no names here - suffice it to say that the Tenere’s protective engineering only resulted in a broken foot lever, along with a little dented pride (and a small limp, or was that a stone in his boot?)
Just to give an idea of the conditions encountered on the day - the first tarseal section from El Calten to Tres Lagos we averaged 120km for the hour, then we hit the gravel and followed the last rider - averaging 65kms an hour for the next two hours, increasing to 100km average for the 4th hour, when Michael’s truck came to a screeching halt, and all timekeeping went out the window …………………
And the bloody Patagonian wind - relentless and merciless, we felt its effect even in the truck - I happened to wind me window down a fraction and the glass was sucked out of the rubber! We had to stop to enable me
to wind it up in the correct position…………….
The wind seemed to be stronger at the end of the day - and everyone denied that it may have been due to rider tiredness…………..
Tom was last in for the day, having chosen to do extra kilometres to the Cueva de las Manos - Cave of the Hands - ancient graffiti for those of us less appreciative of ‘old stuff’. We had ordered our meals just after 8pm when he arrived, to a round of applause.
He certainly made the most of the day!
Mauricio was awarded the Medal for having loose nuts…………………and we shared a social evening, and more sampling of the Argentinian vino (I found a very nice Rosado - two bottles later, shared of course, I slept very well!)
Day 25 - Perito Moreno - Puerto Guadal. A border crossing into Chile again at Paso Rio Jeinemeni, where Lago Buenos Aires (Argentinian side) turns into Lago General Carrera
(Chilean side) - can only happen in South America! Michael was writing his blog while we all queued, then had the contents of our motos/truck inspected by SAG (equivalent of our MAF).
We refuelled before crossing the
Up close
Bones up close to the snow border (cheaper) and had a yummy lunch in Chile Chico before heading to Puerto Guadal, some 110 kilometres away. How can a road shown on a map as running alongside a lake, become a cliffhanger of a ride along a mountainside? Stunning views around every corner, with Rosco constantly parking on the very edge for photographs so that I looked down into a sheer drop of hundreds of metres - I really felt for Michael here, as I could wrench the wheel off Rosco should the need arise, but Michael was in the back seat of his truck and totally at the mercy of Mauricio’s driving skills - I suppose after yesterday’s dramas, he was quite relaxed…………
Anyway, I digress. What a stunning ride/drive - even in the truck we were always stopping for photos and videos……. Where there were barriers, they were mostly battered (and even ripped away from their foundations) by falling rocks - and they were HUGE!!
Anyway, we survived without mishap, but passed by many heaps of rocks and debris.
Needless to say, I was very relieved when we reached lake level again, and found our destination on the end of Lago General Carrera.
We are staying at Terra Luna, an eco lodge, in cedar scented swiss type chalets, with bathrooms downstairs, and bedrooms up steep stairs (just like a ship). A good incentive not to get out of bed in the middle of the night for a bathroom visit!
The medal was awarded to Gerardo for finding such a fantastic road to ride, and we all headed off for an early night - some were drooping (and dropping) after a soak in the hot tub (and Zane even had several dips in the lake to cool off!)
Hasta luego - Bones
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marco
non-member comment
que hermoso viaje
Los felicito por su espiritu de aventurero... sigan disfrutando de las bellezas naturales de la patagonia. Marco.