new leaves

---

Catching a ferry across one of the many lakes that are scattered over Chile, we arrived to much longed for pavimento (tarseal); finally a break from corrugated gravel roads! We envisaged smooth rides with thekilometres whistling past our tyres ... but it seemed that Patagonia wished for us never to forget that we are in a powerful landscape, and we were faced with several days of 30-40 knot headwinds, once again testing our morale and inner strength. However, the greater the challenge means the sweeter the reward - fresh food, a comfy bed and hot showers in a Hospedaje (backpackers), that was so clean that even Kate´s grandmother (who had a slight obsession with cleanliness) would have approved.

New Years arrived to much anticipation of experiencing a South American ´Feliz Años Nueve´ (Happy New Year). Local posters and new aquaintances informed us of the party location, and it was with some humour that we discovered the entrance fee was free before 1.00am - it would no problem to be there on time for the kiwi girls! We shouted ourselves dinner at a restaurant that became very keen to close; upon our departure onto the street we curiously could not find a single place open or a local person anywhere - just a few other lonely backpackers who were also wondering what to do with themselves. South Americans start their new years partying at the new year ie. after midnight! We were best to go to bed for a few hours, and set the alarm for midnight to start the celebration then.

With only two weeks of cycling left, it was time to reassess our journey and make some decisions. We could either carry on as we were, and complete cycling the Carraterra Austral with magnificant scenery of sub-tropical rainforest with a sprinkling of glaciers, combined with continued enduring road surface conditions for the cyclist. Or we could turn a new gunera leaf and shout ourselves a bus trip north and change the scenery altogether. The second option better suited us, and over a period of 8 days we cycled and bused north. We passed through the famous kayaking town of Futaluefu, stopped for a shopping spree in Bariloche, where Aroha turned a new leaf herself - check out her funky new wardrobe when she gets home! Penny´s new leaf was buying woollen clothing instead of selling icebreaker (just ask Penny how many handwoven woollen throws she has!).

With our new outfits (Aroha yet to be convinced that cycling in a lime green dress is a wise idea) we arrived as far north as Pucon with the plan to cycle south. The scenery was now volcanic, (slightly south of the eruption), the bush changed from beach forest to Monkey puzzle trees, the roads now pavimento and the predominant North West winds were behind us - cycling heaven. At last the kilometres began to fly past our wheels.

---

Photos

baking hot
heading east towards Argentina

monkey puzzle trees
even too tricky for a monkey to figure out how to put together