Club Tropicana

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Well it´s been a tough week. We knew travelling would be challenging at times, but never expected we´d have to spend a whole week stuck on a tropical island, sunbathing, snorkelling and messing about in boats...

We caught the bus from Rio down the Costa Verde. I had rather stupidly packed the travel sickness pills deep in my backpack which was stowed in the luggage hold. I felt more and more ill as the coach wound its way round the coastal road. We stopped in Angra dos Reis, hopped into a taxi that took us to the port and then got straight on a passenger boat ready to leave for Ilha Grande. Not time to rummage for the Stugeron then either. Those who know me will understand how much greener I got as the boat made its way across the water.

But the sun was shining and the sea air helped a bit. Graham thoroughly enjoyed being on the water and was getting more excited as we spied the island and realised just how unpopulated and piratey it really is. Just a series of jungle covered mountainous peaks. Previously home to a notorious prison, and before that it was all smugglers and pirates. There are no vehicles allowed on the island so Abbraio port was full of men with carts, loading up goods from the boats. Lots of fresh fruit and building supplies and even a kitchen sink.

There was the usual crush of touts offering guesthouses and tours, but we had seen a hostel advertised in Rio. A kindly tourist information man - we later found out he is completely self-appointed - pointed the way. We had to walk along the beach to get there and cross a little stream.

The hostel itself - Aquario - was great. A superb location at the end of the beach, right on the water, with its own tidal pool full of starfish, hammock deck and beach bar. Our double room was basic but comfortable, clean and had a great hot shower. The view from the bedroom window was splendid. Can´t ask for more than that at less than a tenner a head. So we were even more pleased when we found out that price included fresh juice, papaya, watermelon, rolls and deliciously strong coffee for breakfast on the deck every morning.

We originally thought we´d stay for three days. But we stayed for the week. Had to be done.

One of the best beaches on the island - Lopes Mendes - was a two hour trek through the forest. You can always get the boat if you´re a lightweight, but we fancied hacking through some jungle. The path was pretty precarious at times. A couple of steep ascents and descents and clambering over rocks. Luckily there had been no rain so it was not too slippery. You have to cross several beaches before finding the final path to Lopes Mendes, but as everyone we spoke to at the hostel said, you know when you get there. The sand was finer than flour and squeaked as we walked on it. The sea was gorgeous too, but the waves weren´t quite big enough for surfing. Looking back on that day, the trek to get there and back was definitely my favourite bit.

We also had a day out on a boat to the so called Blue Lagoon, but it wasn´t very blue. The water was crystal clear though - and full of fish. We snorkelled about a bit and enjoyed swishing through the shoals, then relaxing on more lovely beaches.

One thing we found out once we were there and it was too late - there is no cashpoint on the island. Most of the shops and restaurants take Visa, but we took one day out to return to the mainland for a spot of cashpoint action. Fortunately it was the day after a monsoon-like downpour and it was pretty overcast so we didn´t feel like we were missing out on the sunbathing. We had got soaked the night before running back along the beach from a restaurant. We weren´t going to escape without another downpour though and as we walked back from the ferry to the hostel, the heavens opened. The little stream we had to cross before had become more like a river. Graham bravely strode in to test the depth and disappeared up to his armpits. I walked back into town and took the long way round instead...

The sun came out again the next day and dried everything off. We got more than a little bit burned kayaking round the coastline. So relaxing though. The whole week was lovely. A bunch of people from Dublin we had met in Rio turned up after a couple of days and we had several rowdy sessions in the bar which was great fun. Graham was able to watch as much football as he wanted on the big telly. There was an excellent bbq put on after the first Brazil game and we ate mountains of steak and rice and beans and watched the fireworks going off all over the island. We also both became very fond of the owner´s dog Hayes. A very chilled hound who had one blue eye and one hazel one and like to have his tummy rubbed.

We could have stayed a fortnight and done much more - new beaches, scuba diving, trekking to the prison ruins and Parrot Peak - the distinctive rocky outcrop at the highest point on the island. But we reluctantly packed our bags and headed off for the ferry on the 15th. Time to head inland for some Brazilian colonial history.

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