Fernando de Noronha

The island is incredibly spectacular. I spent all yesterday walking from one incredible and completely pristine beach, over rocky headlands to the next equally spectacular one. I did not see a single piece of trash all day. It´s like a timewarp here, back to the pristine world of the past.
The villages are set up for tourists, but there´s hardly any tourists here - the flight was prohibitively expensive, then there´s the $30 a day eco-tax, that´s all before you find accomodation, or eat.
I have a bunch of great pictures but no usb port to access the computer I´m working on, so I´ll just have to settle for superlatives for now. Every rockpool is teeming with colorful tropical fish, the water is deliciously warm and is teeming with schools, even universities, of gorgeous, exotic fish.
I´ve explored the first five beaches yesterday. There are another twenty left. I need to get a proper snorkle and mask set up today.
It´s hot and breezy, and it´s time for me to sign off - this internet connection is the most expensive in brazil. This chicken can´t peck out words quickly enough.
See you on the flypaper.
mike
Actually, there has been a little change since I typed the last chicken peck. Infact, I wrote the first part of the entry in rather unpleasant circumstances, but those circumstances have improved dramatically since last I wrote.
The thing was that I awoke this morning to the owner of the pousada pressuring me to pay for my entire stay. In Portugeuse of course! I had been awake for less than five minutes when the guy is demanding all the money for the whole island stay, contrary to our original agreement. He talks fast, gets angry then walks off in a sulk. I´m immediately thinking that I´m going to move out even though I´ve only stayed for two of the five I´d already paid for. Imagine my surprise to find a fifty dollar bill and a twenty pound note missing from my cash reserve as I pack my bag and check my valuables.
You see, this island is reputed to be the only place in Brazil where you can safely leave things lying around. Just my luck to get ripped off in the safest place in the country! I dance until 4:00am in the most dodgy favellas without any problem, but land in the safe haven, only to be stolen from by this poisonous pousada rat.
I wrote the first part while waiting to meet Gabi and Adrianna, who run the pousada I was aiming to stay in when I arrived. Both are from Sao Paulo and speak first class English. Such a relief to be here, I can tell you. My new place is very basic, but secure and communal. There are three dutch people staying here, all of whom are fascinating: one, Sandy is a Kindergarten teacher, also a diver who has been all over the World, Anna has been travelling around Bolivia and Paraguay, now Brazil, and Jose, her Mexican/Dutch boyfriend has come to meet her.
All is well with my world now. I even have internet access at the pousada. Also Skype. I´m going to find out about how to use it - I might even get to speak to you soon, ar kid!
See you on the flypaper 2.
mike

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Part of trip: Brazil 2008

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