Catching our breath in Barra Grande

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Described in the guidebook as "deliciously off the beaten path", we're happy to discover Barra Grande, taking some effort to get to is both beautiful and peaceful. The journey goes like this: 1hr ferry from Salvador across the Baia de Todos Santos (aptly nicknamed the Bay of All Saints and All Sins), a 4hr bus stopping at evermore remote fishing villages until you arrive at the tiny port of Camamu, before taking a fishing trawler across the mangrove lined bay onto the Peninsula de Marau.

You get the feeling of being on an island, with the bay on one side and the Atlantic on the other. It's a barefoot kind of place, unpretentious and undeveloped. No big resorts or flash restaurants, just a few beach barracas serving fresh fish and the only way to travel on the few sand streets is by beach buggy. It's the perfect place to catch your breath after partying from Rio to Salvador.

We spend 4 blissful days exploring the peninsula. We walk miles and miles along vast empty beaches, not passing another soul for hours at a time. We swim in the crystal clear waters of the gorgeous Praia Taipus de Fora (another "Voted Top 10 Brazilian Beach"...I've lost count of the beaches bestowed this honor but it's definitely more than 10!) Even when we have a day of storms, it only soothes and relaxes us even more.

It would be easy to stay here longer, but we have to keep moving...it will be Christmas soon and we need to get further south in order to find accommodation before everywhere fills up.

We'd been hoping to meet up with Reef and Em again as they head north through the Bahia and we head south. The plan was to cross paths in Itacare, but they send reports of torrential rain and have decided to leapfrog up to Salvador. I hope they find some sunshine...we're only 100 or so kms north and have been blessed with good weather...I hope it lasts as we head south.

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