Salvador, Brasil

Day 1 (Tuesday) - First things first, it was Christmas time and given my inability to book a direct bus to Salvador, I wanted to book as much as I could while there at the station. From Salvador, there is only one bus company (Aguia Branca) that goes to Ilheus, the city closest to Itacare. The line was long but moving and after 30 minutes I had been successful getting a bus ticket for 9:15 the following morning. While there and having already experienced success, I wanted to press my luck and try booking my ticket from Ilheus to Rio De Janeiro a couple days down the road. The only company operating that route out of Salvador was Sao Gerardo. I went to their booth but it was not being run with such efficiency. Though the line was only three folks long, it did not move. I decided to try again in the morning and push on to the hostel. I took a cab and was at the Hostel Galeria 13 door in 15 minutes. The heart of Salvador is in the Pelo and so is the Galeria 13. Though the Pelo is known for being a dangerous place, I felt quite secure within the wrought iron fence and cement walls that night. I had planned on arriving a day and a half earlier, allowing myself a short two and a half day stay in the soul of Brasil but here I was for one night. SHOWER!!! I feel like I am being baptized by Mr. Clean. I am a new man. Layers of filth and stink built up over the past full week are now spiraling down the drain. After cleansing myself fully three times, I felt that I had used enough water and decided to go downstairs to grab some food and secure plans with some other hostel residents for that night. I ate in the hostel, which is not something I typically like to do, especially with little time but it was after dark and this hostel is known for its food. I was successful, filling my stomach with tasty food while securing plans for later. At 10, a french guy, an american girl, an american guy, a german guy and I went out. We were instantly right in the action and I had my first close call with robbery. We were walking through a heavy crowd when I felt a hand sneak into my pocket. I knew that it was not there to supply me a new camera, so I squeezed the fingers to signal that I realized what was going on. When it did not get removed, I gave a slightly more firm squeeze, (firm squeeze = not pleasant for his fingers). He got the message and I made it through the rest of the crowd. Salvador is a wonderfully lively place where dancing spills out onto the streets and is the purpose of a night's activities. I was fortunate to be there on Tuesday, the most lively night. Salvador is considered the place of the real Mardi Gras by most Brasilians. It is pretty fantastic how well the people can dance. We first went to a couple bars then went to the main square where there was a free concert and everyone was dancing. It was very neat. Afterwards, we went to more Salsa Bars and danced in the street and watched others who were so good. We stayed out till about two, when the city seemed to slow a bit and the group was obviously doing the same. I went to sleep about 2:30.

Day 2 (Wednesday) - I woke up at 6:30. I quickly brushed my teeth put on my clothes and went downstairs to pay my bill and hopefully grab a bite. There was fruit laid out and a little more, which more than sufficient. I left there at 7 for the bus station. At the bus station, I was able to book my bus from Ilheus to Rio, which took a load off my mind but was unable to pull out more money because of an ATM malfunction (two cities in a row). At 9:15 I boarded my bus and was on my way.

Unfortunately, I have no pictures for Salvador. My camera was broken and I wasn't able to purchase another. However, given the time there and the reputation for danger, this may have been the one place that I would have left my camera behind anyways. I have heard lots of stories regarding Salvador and felt lucky to leave with merely a close call.

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