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Published: December 14th 2010
12/12
Following on from the trekking and a couple of adventurous days for Tasha and Amy, we decided to have an indoor day - a decision aided by the rain. We got up late, read our books and hung at the hostel - Pousada Daime Sono. It's a pretty worn hostel and is run by Rodrigo, a well-known guy about town who has done nothing but make us feel welcome since we arrived - he also has a dog called Tatu, who, even for someone like me who doesn't like dogs, ir pretty darn cute.
We watched the Silence of the Lambs (as you do) and Rodrigo and his friend kindly cooked us Gailinha Caipira - stewed country chicken with vegetables, it was probably the best meal we have had since we arrived in South America. We then wandered to the supermarket 2 doors down and bought snacks and chilled. We got into bed and then chatted for a while with our Belgian and American Roommates as random Brazilians sang terribly in the Yellow Submarine bar - I learnt more about Belgium than I ever thought I would need to. Lovely to be so chilled.
13/12
Got up early ready to trek - Amy's sunburn was blistering and really bad so she decided agaisnt coming with us - so Tasha, Andrew and I set off on a mission to see Foz de Fumaça - the highest waterfall in Brazil (Iguazu is the most volumous) - We got in a minibus with Cirtur who were to be our guides for the day - but first - SUPPLIES - and Tasha and I had our first Tang experience - Tang is effectively powdered cordial, we got lime flavour and it went down a treat - definite future purchase!
We set off in a minibus with afew others and it took about 90 minutes to reach our starting point... and it was chucking it down again! We had a stop off to buy ponchos (cue very cool posing from me and Tasha) and we arrived at the base point for the falls. We had to sign our names in a book so that they know who is up there (a comforting thought) and outside the rating for the daywas read - Pelligroso - i.e. Dangerous. This was because of the rain etc which had begun to ease off - so off we set, 2km uphill followed by a further 4km to reach the falls - after about 50m of going uphill we realised that the ponchos really weren't breathable so we whacked them off pretty quickly and continued up - it was a pretty tough hill - but Tasha and I were amongst the fittest so we could look at the amazing views at our leisure - although this was hindered by the swathes of fog across the national park.
FACT - Chapada Diamantis National Park is bigger than Holland!
We climbed to the top and headed across the next 4km going through mud along rocks, sand tracks and wading through water that was thigh high - really fun and never felt in danger of breaking anything. We finally reached the final bit, crossing the river (which I now realise is just feeding into the falls). The current was flowing strongly and we had to hold on to the rope and cross the rock - I, in standard behaviour, fell off the rock, and caused myself and the guide a mild panic attacks. But I got back on and across in one piece, and thank God, because I was about to witness the most incredible piece of natural beauty I have ever seen.
Foz de Fumaça is a 450m high waterfall which you can only really get a proper view of by lying on a platform sticking off the edge of a nearby plateau. This really challenged Tasha's fear of heights - but it was totally worth it - the energy pulled you forward,it was truly breathtaking and the photos really can't do the falls justice - It felt so powerful and so peaceful simultaneously - the rain which has been on and off chucking it down was in our favour as the waterfall was so full. We spent a good half an hour up there and we were quite disappointed to leave - everything about this trip has been fleeting and the idea that I'll not see this place again is really sad! I have to say though, I absolutely love Brazil and will do my utmost to return one day. We set off back down the trail in glorious sunshine and we got to see the amazing views of the mountains which had been clouded by mist earlier in the day - it was stunning - it feels a real priviledge to be here.
We reached the bottom of the hill and waited for everyone to join us as like athletes, we were the first down - then the guide took us to a much smaller waterfall with a pool at the bottom in I jumped. It all felt so surreal, was I actually swimming at the bottom of a waterfall. It was so peaceful and relaxing - I am realising just how amazing nature is, I've never experienced anything like it.
We then got back in the minivan and headed back to Lençois - we made steak and rice for tea and went for a Caprinha with some of the other hostel folk. This has definitely been my favourite day so far. I <3 Brazil.
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Tony Cole
non-member comment
Lovin' it!
I am really loving your blog, Rosie: you are doing such a good job keeping us up-to-date with your adventures! The waterfall sounds fantastic and can't wait to see the pics + what a great way to cool off from your trek! (probably were as wet there as on your Chapada trek!) Paradise or what! D xxxxx