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Bolivia
The Altiplano and Salt Flats
We (Tracy, me and three others) left San Pedro de Atacama at 8am in a beat up 4x4 and headed up to the Chile - Bolivian border. The border post was in the middle of nowhere (See Photo). We were heading up to the Altiplano - a plateau between two of the Andean mountain ranges. We spent three days on the Altiplano. The first was spent visiting thermal pools (at a height above sea level of 5,200m) and looking at stunning scenery. That night we stayed in a refugio at around 4000m and the temperature outside dropped to something close to -15 degrees C. The following day we awoke at 6am and visited a number of salt lakes. These lakes are home to numerous species of birds, including flamingos, and come in a variety of colours. On the third day we drove to the famous Salar de Uyuni - a large evaporated salt lake. We drove deep into its centre. Here you are surrounded by the white luminescence of the former salt lake, so much so that you can barely see the mountains on the horizon. The effect is to alter the normal
rules of perception and allow you to take interesting photos.
At the end of the trip we spent the night in a hotel in the town of Uyuni and caught the night bus to La Paz (altitude 3,600m). We had heard a number of nasty stories about theft and robbery in La Paz, so we arrived fearing the worst. However, after 3 days here it has been fine - no worse than Rio, or any other South American city really. The town is a bit rough around the edges, but this gives it the feel of a foreign land, rather than some of the cities of Argentina and Chile. The city is situated in a steep valley, and the first things you notice is how the city has expanded up the valley’s sides. The centre of the town is pretty compact with numerous market stalls (where you can buy pretty much anything, including llama foetuses- nice). There are also numerous old ladies in traditional dress - which also adds to the experience.
Away from the city itself, Tracy and I have taken two trips: the first involved riding a mountain bike down the ‘World’s Most Dangerous Road; and
Coca Leaves
Those little leaves help with altitude sickness the second a 3 day trip to the Bolivian lowlands. The mountain biking began early and involved cycling 64km from 4,200m to 1,600m in four hours. The road was mainly downhill but was only an asphalt road for the first 30mins, after that it was gravel and loose stone. It also had 500m drops alongside it and was narrow enough for one truck. It was a bit hairy in places; however Tracy and I survived (despite one little fall by the aussie!).
After the biking we headed north to the lowlands (300m) to a town called Rurrenbaque. Travelling there involved choosing between a cheap bus (19 hours over gravel roads) and a small, more expensive 20 seater plane (40mins). We choose the plane - and it was like travelling in the 1950s! Despite some interesting turbulence and seeing the Andes mountains at eye level out of the window whilst in mid flight, we arrived in one piece. We were visiting the Bolivian Pampas to see the wildlife and spent three days and two nights out in the bush. Whilst we did not mange to find any Anacondas we did swim with Pink River Dolphins, followed a troop of Howler
Monkeys, and caught Piranhas.
We left La Paz and headed to a town called Copacabana on the Bolivia - Peru border. I’ll save the adventures there for another time, however it is worth mentioning that upon leaving La Paz, we were diverted for about 1 hour due to a protest. Its seemed that this protest was about a number of issues, the most interesting being the bus drivers protesting that they were no longer allowed to drink and drive! That’s South America Folks!
Speak soon
Will and Tracy xx
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