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Published: August 25th 2008
About a week ago, Laura and I went to Copacabana, a popular tourist spot at Lake Titicaca. While there, we hiked to Calgary Hill (a steep hill that has 12 cross stations, each inscribed with a different passage to reflect on, topped with a beautiful virgin statue overlooking the Lake) to watch the sunset. While there, we met some British and American boys that had been trekking throughout South America, and we chatted with them on the walk back down the hill. After the beautiful sunset over the lake, Laura, Ilario and I ate trucha con limon (trout from the lake->not native but introduced) at Hotel Utama (which means home in Aymara).
After dinner, Laura and I went out to Nemo bar, owned by men with dreadlocks (Copacabana is a pretty cool hippie town that features many artisan stands with unique jewelry and clothing) who played music like Sublime and Bob Marley. There, we also met some American kids that were living in Copacabana for 3 months doing some archeological fieldwork. At 7:30 a.m. we awoke and made our way down to breakfast in order to make the boat to the south end of Isla del Sol (Sun Island) at 8:30. The hour-long ride across the lake was gorgeous and the final destination was even more breathtaking. Sun Island is most famous for being the legendary birthplace of the first Incan emperor Manco Kapac and his wife Mama Ochlio. Also, the infamous French diver/explorer Jacques Cousteau While hiking through the Uyani village to the still-standing Incan palace (500 years old), Ilario taught us some Aymara terms and the story of Lago Titicaca. It is told that the people who first settled the island, the first Incans, were told that there was a sacred flower that grew atop of the highest point on the island, and if one were to attain this flower, they would gain the power and knowledge of the gods. So, several people set out to hike to this point in search of deification, but instead were hunted by this fierce andean mountain lion called the "Titi." Overcome with grief of the lost loved ones, the Incans cried until the valley filled with their tears, forming the salty Lake. From then on the lake was known for the titis that inhabited the "caca" (rock), guarding the sacred flower, thus Lake Titicaca was named.
After a day in the sun on Sun Island, Laura and I headed back home to La Paz on a tourist bus. That night, we went to another one of Majo’s friend’s apartment (a very nice boy from Sucre who got hilariously frustrated when he made mistakes speaking English to us, despite our difficulties with Spanish) to eat and have some drinks before going out. Being a Thursday night, it was Afro-Bolivian music night at the Sola Luna. The singing, drumming, and dancing were so unique and entertaining to watch and dance to. We called it a night semi-early (2 a.m. is unusually early) because we were leaving to Apolobamba at 7:30 the next morning.
Friday morning, Laura and I woke up very early in order to pack for our weeklong adventure in the field. We met at Nena’s house for breakfast and then left for a 6-hour ride to Charazani in a cramped car. After about 2 hours, we made a pit stop in the town of Achacachi** (correction below) for lunch. This town was un poco peligroso (dangerous) because it is known as a rebellious town where tourists were kidnapped regularly only a few years ago. 4 hours and 3 tired passengers later, we found ourselves in Charazani where we met with the park ranger director in order to explain the intentions of our stay in the protected area. Then, we left for Curva for the night (the town where most Kallawayas reside).
At about 10p.m. we made it to the Albergue in the town of Lagunillas (5 minutes walking from Curva). The lodging included two big rooms with about 6 beds in each, no showers, no heat, dirty bathrooms, and no food. We had to share a room with a random Italian man that night.
In the morning, we got right down to business, meeting with about 10 Kallawayas that day. While Nena conducted most of the interviews, Laura took notes and added her own questions, and I filmed. Cold night #2 in Curva , Nena’s trusted friend and our guide Andres arrived. We were very lucky to have his help and company because he was young, well traveled, interested in cultural knowledge, and had a great personality. He would stay with us for the rest of the trip as Nena departed the next morning.
Day 3 and 4 in Curva consisted of more Kallawaya interviews (about 20), lots of walking, constantly watching our step as a result of the numerous farm animals roaming the town, and fire and cerveza at night for warmth and improved rest. Although, obtaining the firewood was quite a quest in itself as we walked through the town with a headlight knocking on random doors looking for some to buy (led by a determined and helpful Andres). We eventually found a boy who was willing to fetch some and bring it back to the Albergue for a small fee.
Day 5 in Curva consisted of a Kallawaya plant lesson at the newly constructed but inefficiently used hospital (there hasn’t been a doctor there in over a year). While there, Laura, Andres, a couple Kallawayas (Don Maximo and Don Miguel) and I spotted a condor flying overhead and we caught the rare occurance on camera!
At about noon, Laura, Andres, and I embarked upon our hike from Curva to Charazani (abut 6 hours total). On the way, a lucky fox crossed our path, we vegged out by the river, and had a competition to see who could keep their feet in the freezing water the longest (I won). Andres lost and had to dunk his head in the water as punishment =).
We arrived in Charazani tired, hungry, and unclean from the hike and lack of showers. It was the perfect time to pay a visit to the hot springs at the bottom of the valley.
The next day, we went to the remote town of Amarete on the back of a four-wheeler (I saw my life flash in front of my eyes about 5 times on the scary, narrow mountain roads holding on to the back of the moto for dear life). The experience in Amarete was different than anything I have ever been though before. We were greeted with suspicious stares, a strange yet eerie interest and quite a bit of hostility. Our blonde hair and white skin caused the village children to throw rocks, growl, and even hit me (half playfully and half seriously)! It seemed that two old ladies tried to poison Andres with soup as they repeatedly insisted that he finish it before looking at their crafts.
Back in Charazani, the last night of the weeklong trip, we celebrated by playing juegas de cerveza in a small restaurant located in the main plaza and filming nonsense with the extra camera battery we had from the trip.
In the morning, we caught a ride with a Venezuelan in a large SUV instead of taking a flota (uncomfortable, cramped bus) back to La Paz. Although he liked to talk a lot and we were quite tired, the free ride came at a good time.
More to come on what has happened since we’ve been back from Apolobamba, including my several birthday celebrations (my 18th b-day is today), several family encounters, night life, and the Bolivian music video Laura and I were featured in. Be back soon!
<3 Nejla Esmeralda (Nejlita)
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Aida
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Happy Birthday!
Happy birthday baby! Glad you're having a great time. Figures that you and Laura would find some boys to hang out with in the middle of nowhere....I bet they were cute too. ;-) Have fun, be safe and I love you!