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The city of La Paz varies in altitude between @3000m - 4100m, a fact that was enough to blow my mind even without the altitude sickness I was suffering from! OK so perhaps travelling here from sea level in just one day hadn't been the best idea ever but experience told me my first few days at altitude were going to be pretty evil regardless and there really hadn't been anywhere else to stop in between. Still I tried to be a good little backpacker during those first days, pushing myself out of the hostel to do 'touristy' things (interspersed with lots of sit down breaks!) by day but inevitably being back in bed at an embarrassingly early hour, having finally succumbed to the pounding headache and nausea, whilst everyone else it seemed went out partying.

First impressions of La Paz? A mad, crazy, living city! Busy roads jammed with traffic and drivers who insisted on testing their horns at every possible opportunity, bustling pavements packed with tourists and locals alike and all set against a stunning backdrop of cloudless blue Altiplano sky with the majestic snow covered triple-peaked Illimani, the highest mountain in the Cordillera Real, looming on the horizon. It was also the first place that fitted my preconceptions/stereotypes/expectations/hopes(?!?!) of what South America would be. Don't get me wrong, I'd enjoyed Chile and Argentina immensely but at times I felt I could be in Europe, not halfway round the world. La Paz was different. Far more frenetic than other South American cities I'd been to in that sense it reminded me of Asia. And I realised I'd been missing the chaos! And then of course there were the Cholitas and if I'm honest they're what made it for me. With their brightly coloured polleras (traditional multilayered skirts) and wide, fringed mantas (shawls) neatly folded around their shoulders these short, stout yet tough looking Andean women were everywhere, walking, buying and selling goods on market stalls or just chatting. With their hair worn in long braids tied together at the ends they finished the outfit off with a bowler hat. Yes, a bowler hat!

The main plaza in La Paz is great for people watching - Cholita's, men and children alike mill around eating ice-cream or more likely some brightly coloured (red or green seeming to be favourites) jelly served in a plastic cup with cream on top. Others sit on the steps chatting or chasing the pigeons that also claimed the space as their own. Unlike other South American towns I'd been to where the main plaza was invariably called Plaza de Armas, here it's Plaza Murillo, named after Pedro Domingo Murrillo the hero hanged in 1810 after leading an unsuccessful revolt against the Spanish. Even without the people watching opportunities the plaza is pretty stunning. It's fronted by a cathedral and the impressive colonial Government Palace, also known as the Palacio Quemado, or the burned palace after the fact its been partially or nearly completely burned down so many times. Now the presidents office there are guards in red uniforms standing outside, a reference back to the Pacific War of 1879-84 when Bolivia lost its sea coast to Chile and the soldiers wore red. Along another side stands the Congress building, previously both a convent and a university, whilst in the centre is a 3m high monument of Pedro Domingo Murillo.

Just a short walk away is the equally impressive church of San Francisco. Construction of the original church began in 1548, a year before the founding of La Paz, but in 1610 it collapsed under the weight of snow and wasn't rebuilt until 1784. Next to the church is a religious museum and although there's an entrance fee the excellent guided tour was free and seeing as I was the only English speaking person there I had my own personal tour! After an explanation of all the religious art and objects we climbed (my guide skipped up, I barely craweled) up to the roof for amazing views both across the surrounding rooftops and down to the bustling streets and market stalls below.

Having visited the archaeological museum in town (armed with my dictionary of course because as ever the explanations were all in Spanish!) I headed out for the day to Tiwanaku. A few hours from La Paz by minibus Tiwanaku was the capital of the pre-Inca civilization that dominated the Andean region between 500 and 900AD. Construction of this administrative and religious centre began around 700AD, using stone that was quarried and transported from upto 40 km away and masonary techniques that used regular rows of rectangular blocks - quite different from some of the later, but perhaps more well known, Inca stonework. What remains today includes temples, gates, monoliths and extensive pottery on display in the museum.

Next - beautiful whitewashed colonial buildings, rust coloured landscapes and a minor detour resulting from a transport strike that only caused us to arrive 13hours late!

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