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Published: June 22nd 2007
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On to the next stage of our amazing journey and we arrived in Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca, taking our first rickshaw. At last we got to say Adios to Kate´s fingernail, someone in the rickshaw is in for a nasty surprise! oops! The next day we started a 2 day tour of the islands in the Peruvian half of the lake. First, the oh so amazing floating islands built of reeds. They were absolutely bizarre and it felt like you could fall straight through them. Not sure how anyone came up with the idea of escaping the incas by moving onto the lake! On our way to the next proper island, our boat crashed into the reed beds and we had to be rescued by a very amused boat man. So funny! Our next stop on the lake was Amantani island, where we were introduced to our local host, Angselma who provided our bed for the night and meals. She was very sweet but we had some communication problems! Lots of sign language needed! The island itself was beautiful looking over the lake at sunset, very peaceful with no cars. We wandered up to some more inca
ruins, meeting posh boys - Gwilym and Hovey-William! Good entertainment value as they were ridiculously posh! Later that evening we were presented with some traditional dress by Angselma who dressed us up very tightly and sent us to the local town hall for a fiesta! We felt a bit hard done by when the boys turned up in just a poncho! The dancing was great fun and the kids were so enthusiastic, you couldn´t say no to them! It was very tiring in all our layers of dress plus thick head scarf but we had a great time! The stars over lake Titicaca were absolutley amazing as there was no light pollution.
Next day we said goodbye to Angselma and got on the boat to Taquile island. We were interested to see that our boat was being driven by two young boys aged 8 and 9! extremely sweet but maybe they were the reason for our crash yesterday! Taquile was agin very beautiful but had a strange culture where the boys have to wear certain hats indicating whether they are taken, single or under 18! Wedding on Taquile are also odd as the bride and groom are the only
ones that don´t get to celebrate and have to sit perfectly still and not speak for 7 days! What fun!
That evening back in Puno we managed to find a restaurant which did an amazing 3 course meal plus free red wine and coffee for only 15 soles- 3 pounds! Not only was the food fantastic but it was also presented as if in a posh restaurant!
Next day we left Peru and entered Bolivia! We arrived in Copacobana on the eastern shore of Lake Titicaca. A beautiful little town with great views across the lake and a nice beach. We visited the pretty cathedral with multicoloured tiled roof and saw the famous Copacabana virgin shrine. We climbed up Cerro Calverio, a hill on the north side of the town which had stunning views. In the evening we enjoyed a beautiful Lake Titicaca sunset.
Next day we went on a day trip to the isla del sol. This was a lovely island which the incas believed to be very sacred - the birthplace of the moon and sun. We gate crashed an english speaking tour angering one of the petty group members. Oh well! After finding out
a bit about the island we went on a 3 hour walk along the top of the island with again beautiful views all around.
Back in Copacabana we caught the bus to La Paz. Just as we were getting comfy on the bus we were all told to get off. A bit confused, we were all jammed on to a tiny boat while our bus got on a dodgy looking wooden raft to cross lake Titicaca. Our boat had only a man with torch to guide it through the pitch blackness, it felt like we were being smuggled into another country under cover of darkness!
We arrived in La Paz, which was buzzing with life at 11pm - a contrast to sleepy Copacabana! Next day we had an easy day exploring the city which is an exciting place but unfortunately you could eat the pollution!
At 2am the following day we got up as we were lucky enough to be in La Paz for the winter solstice - 21st June! This is the Aymara indian´s new year and we went to see the celebrations at a pre inca ruin outside La Paz called Tiwanaku. We started off
with a bonfire - very welcome in the freexing pre dawn cold! We threw offerings onto the fire and our houses and family were all blessed with good luck for the coming year. We went along with the strange rituals in the name of tradition. Before sunrise we entered the ruins which were crowded with people awaiting the sunrise. There was lots of traditional music and dancing and indian dress. At sunrise everyone congregated in the main temple. Everyone was taking it very seriously with their hands in the air ready to worship the sun. We all joined in and welcomed the sun when it emerged over the mountains. When it finally appeared everyone calpped and cheered and danced including us! Slightly strange but a fantastic experience, so glad we were lucky enough to see it.
When everything calmed down we had a tour round the ruins. Every now and then we came across smoking pots with the remains of sacrificed small mammels inside. A bit disturbing! On the way back to La Paz we stopped off at the oldest church in Bolivia.
In La Paz we visited the witches market full of shrivelled llama foetuses and other dead things, lotions and potions. All a bit freaky. We also bought ourselves some alpaca ponchos ready for the cold of the salt lakes.
That night we got the night bus to Uyuni. Next stop the salt lakes....
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Karen
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Bit jealous about the witches market ;-) You wouldn't believe how long I've been trying to find llama foetuses.