La Paz

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We woke in the morning early to get a bus back to La Quiaca and back to Argentina. A step we didn't want to take but were left with very little else we could do. Simon was going to have to take the bus east to a larger city with a small airport in which he could then fly to La Paz for his flight back to America. So we got up and went to fetch some last minute things while Clinton headed to the bus station to find us some tickets back to La Quiaca. We then met back up in the hostel where Clinton delievered the first positive news of our time in Bolivia. Finally after 24 days Potosi had ended it's blockade and we were free to travel through. Of course this took the risk that they would quickly close it again and we would be stuck in the middle of nowhere. But we all decided this was the quickest and cheapest option to La Paz so we took the chance. That night we got our first Bolivian bus. Let me just say this if you ever decide to take buses in Bolivia remember a blanket. You'll need one. Our emergency hatch wouldn't close, half the windows are jammed half open and there are random people sleeping in the isle next to you. Definately a different experience. But after the long and painful journey we arrived in La Paz. We headed for a hostel that made it's own micro-brew (my type of place) and went out to have a look at La Paz.

La Paz is an amazing city. While it is dirty and slightly dangerous it has it's own charm. Set sprawling over the mountainside it is a great place to take a walk around. After lunch Clinton and I went to organise the whole reason we wanted to come to La Paz. Just outside of La Paz is what is known as the 'World's Most Dangerous Road' aka 'The Death Road' with a name like that who wouldn't want to grab a mountain bike and ride down something with such a formidable reputation. Now here's where I had to rationalise my thoughts on doing something called the death road. By nature I don't really like hights. So I wasn't in the right country for that in the first place. Now I had to convinve myself that it was a good idea to ride a bike down a road with a 700m fall to your death just one metre to the left of where your tyre is sitting. This isn't a risk free excursion. In fact several months earlier the road took it's estimated 17 tourism victim. So here's what I came up with when setting my mind to it if you need help in the same situation. It comes down to the numbers really. You are in fact more likely to die in a car crash while travelling then to die on this road. The company I went with take between 5000-7000 people a year. With only 17 in over a decade of rides down the road. It's not really that high risk just a little bit scary. So we booked our tour and made our way to the bar (yes alcohol the night before riding down a cliff maybe not recommended) for our free beer from the micro-brewery. To be fair it wasn't too bad. Not the best random beer we've had on the trip but not the worst either.

That night we headed to the market to grab a few beers and some food for Simon's farewell. After travelling with us since Mendoza he would now be heading back to the United States to go back to grad school. This would leave just the three of us left. With Manuela not doing the Death Road it left her with a day free to explore La Paz. I headed to bed early in order to be well rested for the early rise and mountain biking the next day.


Finally D-Day had arrived. Feeling just a little bit nervous about the whole thing we got up got dressed promised Manuela we wouldn't die and leave her alone in La Paz and made our way to the meeting point. At this point I should say that we decided to go with a tour company called Gravity Assited Mountain Biking. They are probably the most expensive but they are also the highest recommended and best company. Run by a Kiwi so you know it's going to be a good bit of fun. We got to the cafe ordered a coffee and sat and waited for our guides to arrive. The first to arrive was Cody an American and our first and foremost English speaking guide. Unlike most companies we would have three guides. Two locally born Bolivian riders and one native English speaker. All of whom make my bike riding skills look very average. After have a quick chat with him the nerves faded and the excitement kicked in. So after finsihing up we all piled into the bus that would take us to the highest point of our ride. The peak point of the ride is at about 4700m above sea level. Not exactly a small height. That and during the day we would drop some 2km in altitude as we rode down the road. It was here we would also be introduced to our bikes and receive our gear. The bikes we got are made by a company called Kona and after a little internet research I have come to the conclusion that the are fucking expensive and very well respected in the mountain biking world. To be fair it is the best bike I have ever ridden. This was the main reason we went with Gravity they had the best bikes.

So after a little safety chat and a small nip of 80% alcohol we were off for the first part of the trip. The first section is not the Death Road it is a paved road the winds down the mountain. Here you can pick up some amazing speeds while flying downhill even overtaking trucks along the way. After a little while you got used to riding down quickly and getting used to the disk breaks which are very powerful in stopping your bike. After about half an hour we arrived to a drug checkpoint (this is South America) and dismounted for our first bit of gravel road. After a small bit of gravel track you arrive at the entrance point for the Death Road tourism booth. Here you pay your 20 odd Bolivianos (pretty much nothing in real money) and get to make a choice. You can either get your ass on a comfy seat in the bus or ride uphill for 8km at 3500m above sea level. Clinton and I definately wanted to try our fitness out. All I can say is that it is excruciating. By the time I got to heartbreak hill (yeah I know) my lungs were aching and I could taste blood in my mouth. Unfortuantely I didn't make it all the way. Probably the biggest regret of this trip so far. But I would make up for it at Machu Picchu (blog to be added in a minute you may have noticed i'm a little behind). Forster made it up the hill apparently feeling pretty much the same as me.

This would take us to the start of the death road. Looking over it is very impressive. The road was made by Paraguayan slaves during a war between the countries in the early 20th century. It is basically a 3.5m wide dirt road cut into the side of a mountain. The sceneray is absolutely stunning. Covered in forest and vegetation with waterfalls just running down the mountain and over the road. So here we were at last. Something we both had wanted to do since we were sitting back in a London pub every Thursday afternoon discussing where and what we wanted to do in SOuth America. It would take too long to explain every bend and every section so let me just say this. It was probably one of the most fun days of my life. You hammer it down this tiny road with a cliff on your left riding through tight corners, under waterfalls all the while looking at some of the most beautiful scenerary.

Also it should be added for those who have seen it that the Top Gear episode was rigged. They said that they were driving down the road. The deadly option as the driver going down is on cliff side this is opposite to normal roads in Bolivia where they drive on the right hand side of the road. This is because it puts the driver over his left wheel and he can see the cliff. If not drivers would have to guess the distance between the cliff and their far wheel. Not a pretty thought. Clarkson had his far wheel on the cliff meaning he was facing upwards and the other driver going past. Staged or not still a great episode. Right back to the Death Road.

You spend a couple of hours concentrating on not going over the cliff while still trying to go as fast as possible. Clinton and I did very well. We were well ahead of the pack the whole time. I put this down to having spent my whole childhood riding around Childers and my means of transport. Finally you arrive at the bottom and get the option to go ziplining. Something neither of us were that keen to spend extra money on. So we headed to an animal refuge for a great lunch and to spend the afternoon playing with rescued monkeys and other native wildlife. All in all an epic day. The next day we were off to Copacabana to see Lake Titicaca another must see in South America.

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Photos

Stripping.
It gets much hotter as you go down.

Yes I am..
drinking a beer on a cliff edge. Safety first.