Wheeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!

There are two ways to get to Coroico. You can catch the bus. or you can go by bike. Whilst the former is definitely cheaper, and arguably safer, the latter is a lot more fun. This is the 'Death Road', so called because it used to be the world's most dangerous road. This incredibly narrow dirt and gravel track winds its way down a total of around 3,000 metres down from La Paz to Coroico. Until a few years ago, when a new road was opened, this used to be the main route for all traffic heading in this direction - including buses and trucks, an alarming number of which would end up falling off. Hence its reputation.

Nowadays, with most of the traffic going down the new road, the old one is used mainly by cyclists, and is nowhere near as deadly (although accidents still happen sometimes, with tragic consequences). There are quite a few agencies in La Paz offering trips down the World's Most Dangerous Road, and I chose one which had a good reputation for safety, not to mention very expensive, full suspension mountain bikes. Although I'd spoken to plenty of people who'd done the ride, who assured me it was perfectly safe provided you don't go too fast, I was still somewhat nervous. We started out by driving up to La Cumbre, the highest point on the road with an altitude of around 4,700 metres. After getting set up on the bikes we were off downhill. The first part of the road is all tarmacked, and was a chance to get used to the bike, with the comfort of having safety barriers on the side of the road if you did happen to fall off. Which I didn't. Then we reached the start of the 'Death Road'. At this point we were split into four groups of six people, with one guide for each group to control the speed. I was in the third group, going quite slowly which I was perfectly happy with. Even so, it was pretty exhilarating ride. Just the thought of the steep precipice just feet away was enough to keep my eyes firmly focused on the road ahead of me. Although the scenery was amazing, this wasn't the best time for sightseeing (hence the lack of photos).

After going slowly during the most dangerous part, our guide said we could speed up as we got nearer the bottom, which was great fun! Speeding along on the bike did feel a little scary, but thanks to the stupidly expensive bike I didn't fall off. So in no time at all, it seemed, I'd made it to the bottom - all in one piece, thankfully, without even any bumps or scrapes.

To recover from the ride, we went to the Hotel Esmeralda, in Coroico, for lunch and showers. This place has a pool, a sauna, stunning views of the surrounding mountains (and of the Death Road)...all for the princely sum of 80 bolivianos a night (about #7.50). What more could a tired and weary backpacker ask for? So I stayed. And I spent the whole next day doing absolutely nothing except for lounging around by the pool, reading my book and generally relaxing. Bliss...

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